SirKarnage

iTrader: (123)

I don't have my little FDR chart with me, but in short, yes you should.

I went from 21/87 to 23/81 and still had plenty (didn't notice a decline) of punch with my setup.

Hinecken

I think part of my issue is that everything I know about gearing comes from 1:1 auto racing. I know that in my full size cars I feel a massive difference in punch and top speed going from 4.10 to 3.73. I have to retrain my thought process when thinking RC.

SirKarnage

iTrader: (123)

And generally you would still be correct in your current thought process. A minimal change in FDR vs sustained power/heat build up is what we are going for here. If you can maintain a higher average speed, using less full throttle application (which in turn = less heat) your run up to that double/triple should only require a blip of the trigger

long story short lol

Cain

iTrader: (294)

trying to paraphrase it here, but from what I was told by the late Big Jim, one of the premier motor men of time, electric motors make there peak torque at near 0 rpm. They don't have to *rev up* like a nitro engine. Based on that, he said that when I went with a bigger pinion gear, I would actually see an increase in torque. (now, this was before the whole boosting craze, so keep that in mind).

I gave his advise a try and he was right. I had a lot more punch. You just have to balance it with the temps you see on the motor, etc.

Hinecken

Page 22 section 34 of the FT manual suggests starting with 20/87 giving a FDR of 6.50:1.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...-preflight.pdf


Question for everyone else, that same page of the manual suggests the starting gearing for a 3300kv motor to be 18/87, which is what the truck comes with, having an FDR of 12.57:1.
A few lines above its says that a 13.5t using the same exact gears would give an FDR of 7.80:1.

Time and again I hear the 3300kv compared to a 13.5t, how on earth could the FDR numbers be WORLDS apart using the same gears?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Yeah not sure why. But it probably a suggestion they felt was best for say a basher crowd.

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

How important is it to ditch the servo saver in favor of like the new Avid Steering Bellcrank? I am a fairly serious racer that’s been out of 1/10th for a while (last 2 years I have focused on 1/8th) I had a B4 and never had issues with steering.

Just wondering if its one of those things that’s a must or something that’s more of a gotta have it because "in theory" it will help.

Hinecken

You can just glue down the stock one for a similar effect. Works great for me.

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

Did you just use CA glue? and just glue the two halves together?

Hinecken

Yup

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

Sounds easy enough will give that a shot before spending the money on the Avid set up, Thanks .... might even look into just making my own.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

You can also do the GPM setup. cheaper than the Avid one and you get the steering link in alloy too. ( I don't use it)

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

I had seen a link for that one a while back cant find it now

crazyjr

Hinecken, You may need to gear higher. I know it goes against what you see, but hear me out.

You are maxing out the motor halfway down the straight, Maxing out the motor is a no no. You need the motor to max out about 3/4 the straight, or closer to the turn. I'm not fully sure how it works, but a motor maxing out is the worst thing you can do. Back when the 21.5 and 17.5 motors (novak,LRP,ect.) They had to gear to the moon to prevent overheating. I am a regular on the RC-Monster forums and we got a sort of a guide that is proven for a happy motor.

Hot motor= gear up
Hot esc=gear down
warm on both= perfect gearing

I am running a 23/87 on a 4600 mamba max CM36 motor, running lower gears it heats up, running higher gearing the esc heats up.

My recommendation for you would be to get a 84 tooth spur and see what happens, you should have a 87 right now. You will pick up a couple MPH, but on the track, it will hit top speed closer to the end of the straight. The motor should cool down a bit due to not being maxxed out as much.

The best way to do this is to get a temp gauge/tool and do timed temp checks. Just keep checking and aim for the esc and motor at around the same temp, usually around 140 to 150*f

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Good advice.



For that steering link, here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-ALL...item53e8f6207a

However, he raised his price $5

Glad I ordered 2 of them right away

another location:

http://www.thetoyz.com/associated/St...80/580/SubCat/

By the way, when you try the steering setup, you may feel as if you want to change something on your car as it will have a whole lot of steering. Don't. First thing I would recommend is dialing down the EXP on your radio so its not so reactive around the lower inputs.