Hey guys...OK guess I will say it...I am sold on GO motors. I went to Dallas yesterday to finish breaking in the GX-7 I got from my brother in a trade. I was running it in my Intech BR-5 with the Alpha 2090 pipe with the 7mm insert installed. I think the 7mm inset in the pipe was a mistake as it had WAY to much snap on the bottom end. I am going to change it out to the 8mm and see it is helps and maybe do some playing with my clutch springs as well. although I did have a hard time getting and keeping the motor at 205 this thing was making INSANE power. A good heavy trail of smoke and had no issues at all clearing all the jumps. I have a question though. Do these go motor do the typical "TUNE CHANGE" when the motor fully breaks in? cause I have yet to notice or see it on mine. Reason I am asking is I finished a FULL gallon on it yesterday and usually on the motors I have dealt with is when they do the CHANGE.

Trey is there someone I can contact about getting supplies for these motors that would be more dependable then A-Main at this point and time?

Sounds like you might have the "average woman tune" on your motor. Lean on top with a big gap and fat bottom end .
Check your idle gap is .5mm to .7mm max. If the idle gap is too wide you will have a much too rich bottom end and a lean top end to compensate.
Things will run ok (about 80% of what they should be) until the tank level drops to around half or below. Then because of the lean top end you are running (that enables the motor to run ok with the way rich bottom end) the motor will sag makedly in performance and come in really hot.
Set the idle gap as above, and if the motor won't idle with this gap, then bring the idle up by LEANING THE BOTTOM END - do not touch the idle screw.
You will now need to richen the top end as well. Once you have the motor running with the reduced idle gap, fine tune from there and only touch the idle when tuning is complete if you need to just settle the idle down a little.

If this is the problem the overly rich bottom end may be causing the weeping front bearing. Give it a go and see what happens

As a byline to the above - with the GO long LSN carbs, if you get lean bog below half tank level - richen the HSN by an hour at a time until the lean bog goes. Do not touch the bottom end. It is the HSN restricting the fuel flow from a lower tank pressure that is causing the lean bog. As a general guideline the HSN should never be more than 2 - 3 HOURS in from flush on the long needle GX two needle carbs.

Glad your liking the GX-7R. They are a great buggy motor with insane top end.
Never really noticed a change in tune with the GO motors. You will see best performance and economy after the 1.5 gallon mark. Our imperial gallon (4.5 litres) is a little more than the US gallon (3.8 litres), so I would say around 1.75 gal in your case.
I always got the best performance with the GO EFRA 2072 pipe or the Dynamite 053 pipe on my 7 Ports. Combine one of these with the Ascendancy 4 shoe clutch running 4 x alloy shoes and 4 x Gold 1.0 springs and you will be very happy. The 7 Port loves that clutch set up.

only 1 week to go before i get my GO M.M. MG66 running in my newly built JQ! , had a good look last night.. mmm the fun.. power

Hmmm - nice !! You will love that motor. It it ballistic in the buggy.
I am an X-Ray man, but I have driven the JQ of a fellow racer at my club and was very impressed with it. Very stable and fast car. You will have a lot of fun with that set up
Once your fully broken in on the MG, you may want to look at slipping the new GXII crank and Gen6 three needle carb into that baby. Then hang onto your pants !!! That's what I am running as my "special occasions" motor. It's nasty but nice all in the one package .

hmmm ok , whats the main difference between the GXII carb and MG66.. ?

yeah it ll be haulin ass .. jumping out of corners... :P

would of bought some more gear to get closer to completion but , $$ needed to move to my new place.. so..

The new GXII Gen6 carb is a three needle design. It's not actually a needle, but a mid range fuel distribution tube for want of a better description. Very similar to the OS 3 needle carbs.
The fuel tube allows for a better delivery of fuel across the rev range, plus the new carb has a slightly wider diameter throat for more effecient operation. It seems to allow you to run the HSN somewhat leaner than the original 2 needle designs without getting the lean bog, so more power and more economy.
The combination of the GXII crank and Gen6 carb brings the bottom end of the MG66 to life more, while still retaining the insane but smooth mid range and top end this brilliant motor has. Seems to also be a little more power right across the board (as if you needed it ), which is probably due to the more efficient carb.
Food for thought once you are all bedded in and going hard .

aha ok, well at this stage ... will have to wait until im , yeah all beded in... , engine running lean and meeean , think it ll do well as is for now.. it being a 6port an all.. and the good work massive mark has done.. some kool stuff coming out of the wood work soon ive heard a lil birdie say.. so exciting things to look forward to from GO and MM.

just so curious as to how the JQ will handle the powa.. , its been too long since ive raced so the anticipation is killin...

Ha ha - I'm sure you will be fine. For all it's power, the MG66 is still very smooth, so you will have no trouble wheeling that JQ around the track

for sure

Where is every one ??

All must be well I guess if no posts ??

I was just about to ask the same Flanno. Very quite on here.

Good weekend for the "HO" here - 2 x sets of TQ's and wins in both buggy and truggy, at two seperate events over the weekend. These motors just keep on hauling and producing the results on the track

rc gear shopping tommorrow! at last.. last of the much needed list of items.. and ill be ready to complete the buggy.. for next weekend..

Is it me or do the GO motors tend to smoke alot? I am running Byrons 30% Race blend. Motor temps are running between 220 F and 235 F using a hot plug. The motor has 1 fuel bottle over a gallon on it and it blows out great. But I just noticed it seemed to blow alot more smoke then what I am used to. Also I am using the Alpha 2090 pipe with a 8mm insert. I just boiled it in antifreeze before putting it on the motor for break in. I did let it dry completely and made sure all the anti freeze was out. I guess it is just the nature of the motors? I doesn't bother me where as as long as I am seeing smoke I know the motor is oiling. And thus far the GX 7 is an impressive motor. I had to drop to .9 springs in my clutch to help tone down the snappy bottom end. It seems to work better as I roll the throttle slowly and it responds very well to it. Also got a few pointers from another man running Go motors also and I will see how they work this weekend also.

As a general rule, the GX engines like to run at 250F or higher when race tuned. Your tune may still be slightly rich (causing the extra smoke). Of course you need to factor in all the variables that effect operating temp. I've had my engines come off the track as high as 290F with no running problems. Remember that if your tune is too lean, the engine will not only have a high temp, but it will also perform poorly. If temps are up (within reason, of course), but it still runs well...................you are OK.

Chuck a matching GO EFRA 2072 pipe on it and watch it go