RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Spare parts too for if you run into your mailbox!
Got some for sale! Figured I would put this here since us AE guys stick together.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10217596
Got some for sale! Figured I would put this here since us AE guys stick together.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10217596
I know you're trying to be helpful - really - so don't take this the wrong way at all... But when somebody tells me the motor I just bought is TOO POWERFUL for my car, I gotta admit, my inner Tim the Toolman taylor grunts approvingly. Thank you for confirming my purchase was savvy. Now I'll just need to figure out a way to replace the hole in my garage door when your warning goes unheeded.Seriously though, the purpose of this motor was for ripping around in the streets or large flat-ish dirt lots, not for small track racing. I completely agree it would likely be wayy too much for that venue.
cheers!
The v1 and v2 shock bodies are both .89... No change
The original b4 front shafts were .71
B4.1 front shafts are .80
If I'm running the front shocks mounted inside tower/outside arm I run 3 limiters... You would just use zero
If I'm inside/inside... I use 4 limiters, you'd use 1
Middle/ outside I'd use 2 limiters, you'd have to unscrew the eyelet 1 full turn.
The original b4 front shafts were .71
B4.1 front shafts are .80
If I'm running the front shocks mounted inside tower/outside arm I run 3 limiters... You would just use zero
If I'm inside/inside... I use 4 limiters, you'd use 1
Middle/ outside I'd use 2 limiters, you'd have to unscrew the eyelet 1 full turn.
I knew there was a difference... but couldnt remember the specifics (i remembered guys started running the B44 front shaft or something, i was hard into TC and only casually read up on offroad stuff).
I DO have the .71 uno front shafts, and im SO glad i didnt drop a ton of limiters in there. lol
Im middle/outside with brown springs (jumps flat, lifting the throttle brings the nose down for an all four landing on the backside). I will prolly be inside/outside since i shifted the weight around with the battery and adding the weight in front of the trans... but my first practice will be middle/inside for comparative purposes.
I swapped to one of the original rear U braces (flat) and one .030 washer with a longneck ballstud in the rear. I think the thicker U brace with one .030 washer and longneck ballstud was one reason the rear was washing out (battery middle and no added rear weight was another).
So i have 10g on the front bulkhead (instead of 7g), moved the battery back (except for 1mm thick adhesive foam attached to the back of each battery), and 18g in front of the transmission. Are the two weights in the triangles for more rear sidebite...?
Sidebite to a slight degree, more so for balance and that "swing" effect when cornering.
I'm only a big fan of running all the weights when the track is high bite. Helps calm the car down. Not so darty and twitchy. A lighter car always works better in low traction or rough tracks.... My opinion of course
I'm only a big fan of running all the weights when the track is high bite. Helps calm the car down. Not so darty and twitchy. A lighter car always works better in low traction or rough tracks.... My opinion of course
Lowering the inner ballstud DOES raise the roll center. I was only stating that jirish617 was indeed confused 
Raising or lowering the inner and outter ballstuds the same amount DOES change your RC however. A very small amount. But none the less does change it.

Raising or lowering the inner and outter ballstuds the same amount DOES change your RC however. A very small amount. But none the less does change it.
Sidebite to a slight degree, more so for balance and that "swing" effect when cornering.
I'm only a big fan of running all the weights when the track is high bite. Helps calm the car down. Not so darty and twitchy. A lighter car always works better in low traction or rough tracks.... My opinion of course
I'm only a big fan of running all the weights when the track is high bite. Helps calm the car down. Not so darty and twitchy. A lighter car always works better in low traction or rough tracks.... My opinion of course

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
So i run on a med-large, high bite track. Kinda set up for 1/8 scales with two massive jumps. The 17.5's can't clear. I was running a tekin 10.5 geared 81/24, 12* endbell timing and 35 boost and it was pretty fast, I didn't have problems clearing anything, but then when I'd place well they would say it was because "I have so much motor". Most everyone else runs 13.5's so I think i'm going to put mine in. I was thinking about gearing it 75/31 with 12* endbell timing and probably 45 boost. I will watch temps but do yall think this is a good starting point?
So i run on a med-large, high bite track. Kinda set up for 1/8 scales with two massive jumps. The 17.5's can't clear. I was running a tekin 10.5 geared 81/24, 12* endbell timing and 35 boost and it was pretty fast, I didn't have problems clearing anything, but then when I'd place well they would say it was because "I have so much motor". Most everyone else runs 13.5's so I think i'm going to put mine in. I was thinking about gearing it 75/31 with 12* endbell timing and probably 45 boost. I will watch temps but do yall think this is a good starting point?



