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Old 01-11-2012 | 11:03 AM
  #9661  
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Originally Posted by Timmahhh
Besides motor, and the Orion rebadged 1257tg, it looks like we run the same electronics. .. the 1257 is probably the best servo I've ever used for 10th scale.
Savox IS NOT thesame as Orion people are ridiculous to think this. Close to the same design but when you take them apart you can obviously tell they are not made of the same materials??? This proves why Savox glitches receivers and Orions very very seldomly do.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-
Savox IS NOT thesame as Orion people are ridiculous to think this. Close to the same design but when you take them apart you can obviously tell they are not made of the same materials??? This proves why Savox glitches receivers and Orions very very seldomly do.
Interesting... I have both and besides labeling they look identical side by side. They also have exactly the same specs, and I can't tell any difference in performance. Now I want to take them apart and look for the differences you mention. LOL

I actually just switched them between buggy and stadium truck just because the orange was too bright through the finnisher window.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 11:27 AM
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Here's a quick setup guide i found on Petit RC, enjoy!
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggySetupGuide.pdf
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Old 01-11-2012 | 12:26 PM
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cant wait to build it cause im officially switching over lol
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Old 01-11-2012 | 12:36 PM
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Hoping Ae soon send out the new B4.1
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Old 01-11-2012 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Timmahhh
Interesting... I have both and besides labeling they look identical side by side. They also have exactly the same specs, and I can't tell any difference in performance. Now I want to take them apart and look for the differences you mention. LOL

I actually just switched them between buggy and stadium truck just because the orange was too bright through the finnisher window.
Maybe your just not experienced enough to notice. Its okay you will learn young grasshopper!
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Old 01-11-2012 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
No. Use it to seal the shock shafts. The original shock seals/teflon rebuild kit used to be...

One thin white washer
One oring
One thick white spacer
One oring
One thin white washer

Youre basically replacing the thick white spacer (its a thick black spacer now) with two thin washers and an oring. I used a teflon based grease to lube them up... but Green Slime works just as good.

But because youre adding one more oring to each shock, it grabs the shock shaft a little more and helps to naturally reduce chassis roll leaving you more options with the rest of your setup (no swaybar, different oil/spring combinations, different shock position, roll center, caster, inline axles, etc).

If you do it to just the front shocks, it initially feels like going from a black front spring to a green front spring in smooth corners (removing initial bite/turn in), but jumps like a black spring.

If you do it on low bite/dusty tracks it becomes problematic. The shocks stick quick and you lose all rear grip.

Gotcha . Thanks DaveW ..
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Old 01-11-2012 | 01:12 PM
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I find no problem with the stock rings and spacers. I run on well kept surface with little dust to a blown out outdoor track, oiled about every 2 race days, I used to oil them when they felt inconsistent but I like to, now I got my ofna shock stand I do it between heats at times.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-
Maybe your just not experienced enough to notice. Its okay you will learn young grasshopper!
OK... but what I will say is that I like any servo with 0.07sec, 138oz, and 54.2g, with what appears to be the same outer case though.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
(BTW, i know the 22 was the first long chassis buggy)
The Losi JRX-Pro SE in 1991 was the first. It had 2 wheelbase options. The longest gave nearly an 11-3/4" wb which is longer than current IFMAR rules allows and led to the current wb length rule. When you had the smaller 2" wheels on this length it looked more like a limo. Most people didn't drive it in this configuration. The next car, the XX went back to a much shorter wheelbase at under 11" and the XXX lengthened it a little bit again. The first version of the JRX family had a very short wheelbase as well. Somewhere around 10-5/8". They are constantly changing them around so don't believe that the current trend of longer is necessarily better. It depends on the track and like the cars, track design is evolving too.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 02:59 PM
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Youre right. I worded that wrong... i was trying to say i knew the 22 had a long chassis before the B4.

Things always change, and almost always seem to find their way back to how they were before. LOL
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Old 01-11-2012 | 03:37 PM
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But the B3 had it before the 22
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Old 01-11-2012 | 04:08 PM
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who cares about 22, we have the fastest car in world right?!

that worlds car made me real happy. Need a fresh kit, and that right there is what my car will end up to be so why not buy that?
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Old 01-11-2012 | 05:16 PM
  #9674  
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Default Front HEX

What is needed to convert my b4.1 to have hex front wheels?
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Old 01-11-2012 | 08:19 PM
  #9675  
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-
Savox IS NOT thesame as Orion people are ridiculous to think this. Close to the same design but when you take them apart you can obviously tell they are not made of the same materials??? This proves why Savox glitches receivers and Orions very very seldomly do.
Since the RTR (here we go again) receiver is on the slow side, would replacing it be recommended for an amateur? Seems like a "fast-twitch" servo might cause more problems than it solves... not much point in buying a great servo if you wind up having to trim it down because you can't control it.

Or, is it really worth the extra dough, and something you'll get used to quickly?
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