hey all i have just switched saddle setups i went from the exotech one which puts them up front side by side to mantis which puts them in a line neways my setup is
4.5 tekin 550
novak havoc pro w x-drive
yellow springs all around 32.5 oil up front 30 in rear
shocks are in the middle holes
exotech chassis
clutch basket
rebars super soft
sway bars medium str i think blues
rpm arms basicly my setup is cavs and maifields reedy race setup
i race at s&n s trackside medium size hard packed dirt almost like clay

basicly when i had the saddles the exotech way up front the car felt great but pushed in the corners when i switched the saddles to mantis way inline the car the car has tons of steering and if driven really hard the rear breaks loose its like i cant win what can i do to take a little steering away without doing it to much to where its pushing out of the turns

ok thanks! How are these different from the garodiscs?

Slightly larger than the stock discs, a little less slip. Run the two standard ones in the basket and it'll be kind of even.

If you hadn't bought the basket, two garodiscs are okay. You can run three garodiscs, but I suspect that it will bias the torque too much to the rear. That's what happens when you run three HD pads in the basket decoupled.

Now that I have the whole 540 thing figured out, I'm going back to experiment with a decoupled slipper. I may even take the basket out.

Since you already have a basket then just order the triple kit which now is specifically designed to work with the MTK clutch basket. it comes with two normal Garodisc and one "narrow" disc that you put on the outside , it has less surface area which in turn keeps the basket from engaging too hard and too fast. really smooths it out nicely.

The description for the dual Garodisc on the site does not say not to use them , it says "non clutch basket". Not everyone uses the basket especially on loose tracks so for those people they can just order two.

Roll center shims will help as well as your front end alignment. make sure you dont have any toe out and your camber is at 0. try the alignment first, it works! The RCshox ACKbar will also help dramatically.

How is everyone running there Clutch Basket with the pads. Is it 2 standard pads and 1 HT?

Anyone got an idea? Just inner shock limits?

Take a look here http://www.rctech.net/forum/10063326-post12837.html
I now have MMP installed on the bottom of the chassis just ahead of where the platform was. Had to trim the side of the chassis a little but it's a good fit and lowered the cg. The aft center brace is cut out on bothe the center and rear chassis pieces. With the 2mm carbon plate in the bottom my battery packs fit perfect under the rear lip of the rear chassis piece. I'll try and post newer pics later. Cutting the cf plate can be the tough part if you don't have the tools. I had the cf plate so the mod cost me about $5 in hardware. I think having the weight of the battery right down the centerline helps the stability without adding more weight than you need to. It works really good for me.

It certainly can be!

I decided a couple of months ago to "read with interest" all the mods being done to this truck. Other than a set of Garodiscs, just to get some consistency, I'm going to wait and see what pans out as being THE most useful changes for me.

The one mod that just makes total sense is Marcus' center dif. His "Ackbar" is on my short list.

But all this cuttin and drillin is just going to have to wait...

Add front bite or remove rear. Springs, oil, camber, wheelbase...TIRES...

Are you having issues turning on or off power??

The nice thing about this truck is that you can replace things like the center chassis section for a few dollars. Makes cutting it up and drilling holes much easier.

Wanting to know what the best pinion number to run in the sc10 4x4 with this setup? On a 2s 5000mah lipo general bashing.

14 or 15

Thanks Dan!