3LikesMugen MBX6
01-05-2012, 08:09 AM
01-05-2012, 08:13 AM
Tips for Forward Traction (acceleration out of the corners)
less rear antisquat (change the pill on the front arm mount in the rear end)
Stand the rear shocks out one hole on the tower
Try going up 1000wt in the rear diff
Check rear ride hight 28-30mm
Less front Caster
Shorter Wheel Base
Those adjustments are usually what I will look to do for forward traction.
Brand new cars usually take a while to break in and gain traction especially buggies with CVD's. Be aware that if you put brand new CVD's in the rear, expect a loss of traction till they break in a little.
less rear antisquat (change the pill on the front arm mount in the rear end)
Stand the rear shocks out one hole on the tower
Try going up 1000wt in the rear diff
Check rear ride hight 28-30mm
Less front Caster
Shorter Wheel Base
Those adjustments are usually what I will look to do for forward traction.
Brand new cars usually take a while to break in and gain traction especially buggies with CVD's. Be aware that if you put brand new CVD's in the rear, expect a loss of traction till they break in a little.
01-05-2012, 08:31 AM
Rear Axles are a big deal in regards to rear traction, mainly how they bind or cause friction in thier joints.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
01-05-2012, 09:02 AM
Welcome back, Chad. 
01-05-2012, 02:12 PM
Hey Mugen Guys Great to see "The Don" on again
Thank you Donnie for spending time/Set Up with the M guys++ we have
A Buzz with the X3 Pro chassis, there should be quite
a bit of feed back from the new racers who are excited
with all of the Great Info..Keep us posted
Thank you Donnie for spending time/Set Up with the M guys++ we have
A Buzz with the X3 Pro chassis, there should be quite
a bit of feed back from the new racers who are excited
with all of the Great Info..Keep us posted
01-05-2012, 02:19 PM
BCE X3 is soooooo Dialed....
The BCE X3 is going ultra H.A.M. on the track. Keep up the great work BCE...
01-05-2012, 03:12 PM
[QUOTE=donrod;10126757]All you guys who ordered the BCE 3mm will love them, it will give you back ever thing you lost with the 5mm but still good in the rough. Along with the truggy tower,front batt and rear Kyosho springs the car is very good. Here is our setup again with the chassis,tower etc .. Donnie
Donnie, would you mind sharing the part number for the long front and rear brace that you use in this setup? Or does this mean use the truggy brace? Thanks!
Donnie, would you mind sharing the part number for the long front and rear brace that you use in this setup? Or does this mean use the truggy brace? Thanks!
01-05-2012, 03:25 PM
[QUOTE=pword;10128799]
The long front brace is the stock one from the M spec kits and non R kits. The R kits should have the long and short brace in the box (rear braces too).
The long rear brace: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...en-Tension-Rod
All you guys who ordered the BCE 3mm will love them, it will give you back ever thing you lost with the 5mm but still good in the rough. Along with the truggy tower,front batt and rear Kyosho springs the car is very good. Here is our setup again with the chassis,tower etc .. Donnie
Donnie, would you mind sharing the part number for the long front and rear brace that you use in this setup? Or does this mean use the truggy brace? Thanks!
Donnie, would you mind sharing the part number for the long front and rear brace that you use in this setup? Or does this mean use the truggy brace? Thanks!
The long rear brace: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...en-Tension-Rod
01-05-2012, 03:53 PM
[QUOTE=morgoth;10128865]
The long front brace is the stock one from the M spec kits and non R kits. The R kits should have the long and short brace in the box (rear braces too).
The long rear brace: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...en-Tension-Rod
thanks a lot!
The long front brace is the stock one from the M spec kits and non R kits. The R kits should have the long and short brace in the box (rear braces too).
The long rear brace: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...en-Tension-Rod
01-05-2012, 03:54 PM
It was asked earlier about the spring ratings for Mugen.
Here is a link to RaceMugen, where they have a great tutorial on springs.
Check it out!
http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89
Here is a link to RaceMugen, where they have a great tutorial on springs.
Check it out!
http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89
01-05-2012, 04:09 PM
[QUOTE=morgoth;10128865]
The long front brace is the stock one from the M spec kits and non R kits. The R kits should have the long and short brace in the box (rear braces too).
The long rear brace: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...en-Tension-Rod
The R kit includes both long and short braces front and rear.
The long front brace is the stock one from the M spec kits and non R kits. The R kits should have the long and short brace in the box (rear braces too).
The long rear brace: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...en-Tension-Rod
01-05-2012, 04:26 PM
For whatever reason, Chad's setups have always worked for me and always willing to help.
With Chad now at Mugen, kinda makes me want one.....
With Chad now at Mugen, kinda makes me want one.....
01-05-2012, 04:54 PM
It was asked earlier about the spring ratings for Mugen.
Here is a link to RaceMugen, where they have a great tutorial on springs.
Check it out!
http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89
Here is a link to RaceMugen, where they have a great tutorial on springs.
Check it out!
http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89
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01-05-2012, 06:25 PM
welcome back Chad We will be here waiting for you set up and tips
Rear Axles are a big deal in regards to rear traction, mainly how they bind or cause friction in thier joints.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
01-05-2012, 10:56 PM
