As far as i know snrgraphite is the only carbon fibre chassis available

We went to the solid aluminum and it really did not change the flex as bad as you would think. In addition, last week my son which has both the 8be and 8.2, though the 8.2 is not built for him yet, set his 8be on the TQ spot against other 8.2 vehicles. I have two sons and the other one did have 8.2 on the track and finished 4th. The oldest one did drive the 8.2 and he does think he will be better with it.

I'll defiantly be getting the RC8.2 whenever funds allow, no doubt. I'm trying to sell some things off to buy a new one.

Is your son running the Aluminum front brace too? I may go ahead and pick one up while I'm at it.

Sigh. Racing three classes every other weekend isn't very cost effective.

We are still running the stock brace on the front. We have only seen the rear braces having breakage problems. Kind of funny both of ours broke on the same track on the same day. It was a rough track and I honestly think it may flex too much on the rough tracks with the stock brace. If that was not the case, then I can't explain both vehicles breaking on the same day at the same track.

any advantage too running a carbon fiber chassis? they do look good

They are a lighter and probably flex differently. To be honest, most of these electric cars need the extra weight to put down the amount of power the motors are capable of. I am a firm believer in this class, lighter does not help the vehicle at all. In addition, for the expense of the chassis, I think I would cry seeing a scratch put into it. It's not like we are running these like a touring car on clean tracks and no jumps.

So since I have an RC8b nitro I converted to electric, do you know what the chasis differences are between the rc8be?

Just installed my mud guards on my rc8be from de. Wanting to adjust shocks what oils should I run in front and back

Whats the biggest diameter motor that can be installed with the stock motor mount? I currently have a 36mm and can see where the chassis flexed and the motor hit the foam pad. something to worry about?

whats up everybody, new to the forum but not to the hobby. I recently just finished building my rc8be FT kit. Its finally up and running with the Xerun 150a esc and turnigy trackstar motor. I have it on 2x2s gen ace packs and I;m loving every minute! I have a savox 1258tg steering servo which I am extremely happy with.

what pinion gear is everyone running with a motor that is 2560kv? I'm using the stock gears seems to run fine and everything stays cool, I'm thinking maybe I can go up a couple teeths.

Depends on how small/large/technical your track is. Most people have 14-16t pinions on standby. However I have seen speed demons fit a 20t pinion on for street running. So just gear accordingly and watch your temps.

Which mudguards? I have an RC8 FT that I turned into an RC8Be, but I have no mudguards on the rear arms. Which arms have the holes in them for the mudguards?

Also, do the 8.2 rear arms fit right on?

I do not no about the 8.2 as I believe they have holes in the arm for them. As for mine I got them off of amainhobbies they are a clap style around rear arms then screw together to lock them on. They are made by DE and are pretty easy to put on after I get car back together I will post a pic to show them

I just ordered up DE mud guards last night as well for my RC8Be I just put together. Got a TBR pro nylon front skid bumper coming as well.

Also my steel 46t spur gear arrived. I'll be replacing the plastic one once it wears out.

Currently running 5k diff oil on all 3. The track I'll be practicing on most of the time is pretty technical as it was designed for SCT's.

Should I run something like 3k 5k 7k?

Also I'm using a Futaba 4PL with the included SFHSS RXwith a digital Hitec 7955TG servo...can I run high response time off the TX or stick with normal response? Is there that much of a difference?

are there any mods that need to be done to run the DE mud guards?