Yes.

Selling RC8e


http://www.ebay.com/itm/150722410987...84.m1555.l2649

Had to share a pic of my new build, a FT RC8Be. This is my first 1/8th scale and first new kit since I got back into RC two years ago (I'm still stuck in the vintage 1980's RC10 days for the most part).

I searched quite a bit trying to find pics of an RC8Be with RPM arms and the FT steering knuckles and rear hub carriers, but finding none, here are pics of my car as it sits so far.

FYI, the stock arms are plenty strong. RPM was necessary years ago, but not so much now.

When I orderd my alum rear hubs they where out so I got integy forged alum ones. Cheaper and so far strong

This is currently $120 less than the new .1 kit. Is the other kit worth it?

Thats a hard question to answer. If I was a pro racer probably would be worth getting the 8.2. If your the average Joe then probably not gonna help you very much. All it is is lower CG and 3mm longer..

The new kit has a lot more steering. My sons have the 8be and christmas brought the 8.2's. We ran both last week and my oldest son still TQ'd on the old car over others with the newer ones. I drove both and can say the new one seems to land smoother and it has a ton more turn in. So, yes there is a lot of difference.

What are a few of the best after market carbon chassis for the rc8be?
snrgraphite.com
bcespeed.com
?
?

thx!

This is my first 1/8 buggy I've built and I can't figure out how I am getting front gearbox binding to a point that the front pair of tires are locked and cannot spin at all. Individually in the front when I rotate one the other side rotates freely in the opposite direction as normal.

When I remove all 4 chassis screws under the front gearbox this loosens it enough to a point where the front pair of tires can now roll (but with a lot of resistance).

When I roll only the rear pair of tires I can see the spur gear turning as well but the front pair of tires are not moving. You can see the center diff's front output trying to turn but it seems to be bound up by something in the front gearbox/diff.

This is very strange as I followed all the instructions clearly...it must be something in the front differential when the buggy is trying to roll forward. But if that was the case how would removing the 4 chassis screws for the front gearbox allow the buggy to somewhat roll forward??

I would be willing to bet that you have the front diff in the housing wrong. When looking at the front of the car, the diff should be in the bulkhead with the ring gear on the left side. There is a small cutout in the chassis for clearance. That is also why you probably get a small amount of movement when you take the 4 screws out.

Ok now that makes sense! Lol silly me installing the diff on the wrong side. That almost happened on my Axial Wraith I built up a few weeks ago. Should have remembered that!

Thanks for the help...now to tear apart the front bulks and flip the diff.

Will this kit work for our cars as well?

Stainless Screw Kit

I guessing it will, since they are essentially the layout.

Yup my front diff was installed on the wrong side. Thanks for the help she's a runner now. Time to paint!

This buggy is still super fast, and still winning against the 8.2s.

I do have one issue though. I broke my rear chassis brace at the track the other day. I'm debating if I should go with a pivot ball style brace, or a plastic stock brace. I run on rutted out 1/8 scale tracks, so by getting the solid FT brace, I will sacrifice traction and chassis flex too much.