RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-07-2011 | 09:55 AM
#8237
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
8m is way more stable & smoother than standard car , on small layouts or big, makes no difference ....
12-07-2011 | 10:31 AM
#8238
I'm not fond of any of the cab forward bodies as well, but just for info, the stock original body (which means most every body ever made will) fits the +8mm chassis as I have one on my B4 +8 and didn't have to modify anything, not even the tab with the hole for a body clip, to locate ontop of the rear tower.
So no need to wait for a low, streamlined body to come out for the B4 +8, just use what is out there originally. I also trimmed up a proline corwd pleaser body and it also fits fine without modification or strange cuts onto the +8mm chassis.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/333/photomd.jpg
Picture of my +8mm chassis with stock B4 Body.
Just for reference, I didn't like the +8mm chassis at all, this after driving mine, 2 current AE drivers and one other racer's who is the fastest at our local indoor currently, and none of their cars felt any better than my own. I prefer the standard chassis length.
So no need to wait for a low, streamlined body to come out for the B4 +8, just use what is out there originally. I also trimmed up a proline corwd pleaser body and it also fits fine without modification or strange cuts onto the +8mm chassis.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/333/photomd.jpg
Picture of my +8mm chassis with stock B4 Body.
Just for reference, I didn't like the +8mm chassis at all, this after driving mine, 2 current AE drivers and one other racer's who is the fastest at our local indoor currently, and none of their cars felt any better than my own. I prefer the standard chassis length.
12-07-2011 | 12:03 PM
#8239
I'm not fond of any of the cab forward bodies as well, but just for info, the stock original body (which means most every body ever made will) fits the +8mm chassis as I have one on my B4 +8 and didn't have to modify anything, not even the tab with the hole for a body clip, to locate ontop of the rear tower.
So no need to wait for a low, streamlined body to come out for the B4 +8, just use what is out there originally. I also trimmed up a proline corwd pleaser body and it also fits fine without modification or strange cuts onto the +8mm chassis.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/333/photomd.jpg
Picture of my +8mm chassis with stock B4 Body.
Just for reference, I didn't like the +8mm chassis at all, this after driving mine, 2 current AE drivers and one other racer's who is the fastest at our local indoor currently, and none of their cars felt any better than my own. I prefer the standard chassis length.
So no need to wait for a low, streamlined body to come out for the B4 +8, just use what is out there originally. I also trimmed up a proline corwd pleaser body and it also fits fine without modification or strange cuts onto the +8mm chassis.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/333/photomd.jpg
Picture of my +8mm chassis with stock B4 Body.
Just for reference, I didn't like the +8mm chassis at all, this after driving mine, 2 current AE drivers and one other racer's who is the fastest at our local indoor currently, and none of their cars felt any better than my own. I prefer the standard chassis length.
12-07-2011 | 02:36 PM
#8240
No matter how much you guys dislike can forward bodies they work!! So get over it!! I'm tired of hearing how ugly they are and when I'm at the track that's ALL I see!! Stop striking the dead horse!!! Please!!!!
12-07-2011 | 03:07 PM
#8241
Like I said before, I love them and I love their look, I dont see what you guys are talking about
12-07-2011 | 03:26 PM
#8242
I ran jason haase's setup he posted recently and it actually is really nice, I think a 2.5 toe in block would be a little faster in the times
I will try the brent theikie grand prix setup now i will post results
the setup was pretty consistant but it was more of you had to push the car hard or drive smooth but that could be a number of factors
I will try the brent theikie grand prix setup now i will post results
the setup was pretty consistant but it was more of you had to push the car hard or drive smooth but that could be a number of factors
12-07-2011 | 03:53 PM
#8243
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,076
From: SoCal - Chillin in the LBC
The 3 bodies I have run are the JConcepts Punisher, AE B4 and currently Proline Bulldog. An FYI the stock length bodies on all fit on the +8mm chassis setup. You just need to trim a little off the nose to take out the slight downward curve. Just a little of the bulkhead shows...no biggie for me.
12-07-2011 | 04:08 PM
#8245
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13
help first time setup...
Hey guys, i'm just getting back into the R/C game & need some help setting up my transmitter.... I have an RC10B4 Factory Kit, Futaba 3PM transmitter & an Associated SC-450BL ESC... When i switch on the transmitter the wheels on the kit automatically shoot to the left. Can someone assist me in correctly getting my wheels straight with the controls on the transmitter. Also, when performing the calibration on the ESC does the motor need to be connected? I'm sorry if these questions seem really stupid but like i said i've been out of the game for quite sometime & just wanna get everything running correctly....
Thanks so much guys!!!
Carmine!
Thanks so much guys!!!
Carmine!
12-07-2011 | 04:12 PM
#8246
Hey guys, i'm just getting back into the R/C game & need some help setting up my transmitter.... I have an RC10B4 Factory Kit, Futaba 3PM transmitter & an Associated SC-450BL ESC... When i switch on the transmitter the wheels on the kit automatically shoot to the left. Can someone assist me in correctly getting my wheels straight with the controls on the transmitter. Also, when performing the calibration on the ESC does the motor need to be connected? I'm sorry if these questions seem really stupid but like i said i've been out of the game for quite sometime & just wanna get everything running correctly....
Thanks so much guys!!!
Carmine!
Thanks so much guys!!!
Carmine!
Im not sure on the ESC, but why would you want to calibrate the ESC without the motor? If i had to guess, yes, it should work. This is just a guess though.
Hope this helps, welcome back
12-07-2011 | 04:52 PM
#8247
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 13
Sounds like the servo horn....take the horn off the servo, turn on the radio, center all your trims....get the horn as close to 12 o'clock as possible. From there, you use SUB trim to center it perfectly....you can use TRIM (not sub) to make adjustments on the fly.
Im not sure on the ESC, but why would you want to calibrate the ESC without the motor? If i had to guess, yes, it should work. This is just a guess though.
Hope this helps, welcome back
Im not sure on the ESC, but why would you want to calibrate the ESC without the motor? If i had to guess, yes, it should work. This is just a guess though.
Hope this helps, welcome back
Thanks again!!!!
Carmine
12-07-2011 | 05:15 PM
#8249