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PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!

PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!

Old 05-13-2016, 06:12 AM
  #16  
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$84 for a 5000mAh 7.4v battery? Where did you go to get ripped off? That's around twice what you should be paying.
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Old 05-13-2016, 06:24 AM
  #17  
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Make sure your car is gear properly and all connections are good. Car geared too high will overload the motor and esc and overloading the battery eventually. Bad solder connection = higher resistance = heat = no good.

Im willing to bet you got a Venom battery... They are ok batteries but waaaay overpriced. Turnigy, SMC, Vant, are better bartteries at a fraction of the price.
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:09 AM
  #18  
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Default OMG!

Originally Posted by JRSlash
Make sure your car is gear properly and all connections are good. Car geared too high will overload the motor and esc and overloading the battery eventually. Bad solder connection = higher resistance = heat = no good.

Im willing to bet you got a Venom battery... They are ok batteries but waaaay overpriced. Turnigy, SMC, Vant, are better bartteries at a fraction of the price.
This is bull though i want a damn rc car i can put a 2s lipo in and drive the damn thing forever i don't want to go screwing with anything just put a brushless motor and esc and go like i don't want to buy some brand new truck then have to go and take it apart the motor fried out on me like 20 minutes ago smelt like everything burnt up inside if i get a brushless esc and motor should i be fine after that or will something else blow up to. i went and just looked at the truck yesterday half the screws and allon keys were loose and half hanging out the drive cups where the dog bones go in are all bent out of place and i snapped a steering upper link off IV HAD THIS TRUCK FOR 3 DAYS and its falling apart like what the hell i haven't did anything rough with it nothing at all besides drive fast drift and donuts on gravel. and yes i did get a venom battery i would order off ebay but the stuff takes so long i have the truck broke by the time it shows up.

Last edited by racer1812; 05-18-2016 at 07:36 AM. Reason: missed something
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:41 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jfly260
This is bullshit though i want a damn rc car i can put a 2s lipo in and drive the damn thing forever i don't want to go screwing with anything just put a brushless motor and esc and go like i don't want to buy some brand new truck then have to go and take it apart the motor fried out on me like 20 minutes ago smelt like everything burnt up inside if i get a brushless esc and motor should i be fine after that or will something else blow up to. i went and just looked at the truck yesterday half the screws and allon keys were loose and half hanging out the drive cups where the dog bones go in are all bent out of place and i snapped a steering upper link off IV HAD THIS TRUCK FOR 3 DAYS and its falling apart like what the hell i haven't did anything rough with it nothing at all besides drive fast drift and donuts on gravel. and yes i did get a venom battery i would order off ebay but the shit takes so long i have the truck broke by the time it shows up.
Some sort of punctuation would make this much easier to read....
But to address some of your points/concerns...
- you will never get an RC you can just throw a battery in and drive forever.
- daily maintenance is just part of the game, you'll almost always be tightening something or replacing something..
- couldn't really tell, but did you say you over temped the motor? If so then your problem all along could have been it was over geared (as suggested earlier in the post).
- take your time and go through the truck and tighten up all the loose screws, nuts, etc... If it screws into aluminum, try adding a bit of loctite to the screw before reinstalling them.
- finally, take a deep breath, step back and count to 10, then take another look at the truck. Remember, you bought a RTR truck. This thing was put together by people earning less then minimum wage. There are going to be some hiccups along the way until you get all the bugs worked out of it.
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:29 AM
  #20  
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Make sure you set the little black tab to "LiPo".

I have the Raider and it should have no issue, difference is that the Granite has a smaller pinion and bigger tires. I think it is your charger. What charger are you using? Typically, the newer charger with a cell balancing will take care of the issue. Early when LiPo first came onto the scene, I was using the ICE charger and many of my LiPo batteries puffed up. Switched over to the icharger and problem solved.

How you store your battery is vitally important. If your charger does not have "storage" mode and you just brought your batteries from the long winter break, your batteries will no longer be any good. That being said, even if LiPo are charge to "storage" mode, you still need to take them out once a month to check on voltages and maybe even recharge/rebalance them to make sure things are kosher. Take it from me, I have had couple hundred of dollars in batteries go sour on me due to these little mishaps. Invest in a good charger, a good power supply and when money permits, get rid of the brush system. Team Novak just announced a new sensored brushless 4-pole system they have for the budget minded people or try the HobbyWing setup. Going 3S on the brushed motor can really wear down quick especially if you go over grass and use it as a basher. Here is my Raider costing more then a stock B5M.

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Old 05-14-2016, 07:34 AM
  #21  
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Angry Rc MOTOR PROBLEM!

I have a 1/10 ARRMA granite mega (don't ever get this truck) and iv had it for 3 days and its basically falling apart. anyhow i have the motor out and then i turn on the transmitter and esc and give it power the motor got full power then when its get so fast it makes this loud screeching noise and looses all power then a smell comes out like its hitting the sides of the motor on the inside. has anyone had this problem? if so can you tell me what it is and if there is any way to fix it? because iv only had this truck 3 days and literly its falling apart. im using a arrma 12t brushed esc with the tabs to switch from lipo to nimh and to turn off reverse so i cant program the esc.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:24 AM
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Driving it "forever" just won't work, I'm afraid - not even with brushless. You're supposed to let the motor (and ESC) cool down a bit before going on with the next battery. Also a lot depends on wether you're geared correctly or not (although that is something an RTR with RTR components should be expected to - but you should need different gearing for 3S than for 2S use with the same motor).

Of course screws shouldn't really just come out like that (at least not all of them, especially not after only 2 or 3 batteries, as you said. But that's why I personally never ever buy RTR. I simply don't expect any of these underpaid factory workers in china to put even half as much care into building a car as I do, when I build one myself. Oh and as was mentioned: screwing metal into metal - never forget to add a drop of loc-tite.
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Old 05-14-2016, 01:22 PM
  #23  
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These vehicles by Arrma are great cars compared to other brands at the going price. However, to make it capable of 3s and have less damage, you definitely need to upgrade many parts just to make it capable. I have had to buy an entire rear end transmission from the Granite BLX and many more parts just to make it a fun basher. The cost of it well exceeded what I expected. Keep these rtr as it is until you have enough funds to buy a proper high power vehicle.
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:22 AM
  #24  
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In the end brushless is the way to go. Not maintenance free but you can go a lot longer between maintenance. I don't understand why you're running 3S in 1/10 either. You can get a stupid fast brushless and run on 2S and it will be more than you can hang onto if that's what you're looking for. Someone mentioned balance charging, you absolutely need to do that. If your charger doesn't balance then get an Electrifly Blinky. I have an old DTX Ice charger that I use for Tx packs etc and the Blinky works great.

You've already been told what to do about the screws. Fact of life. Screws come loose. Putting a little Loctite on metal to metal solves those, but the ones threaded into plastic are going to require tightening occasionally.
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:08 PM
  #25  
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it is brushed... don't use a 3s......
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:43 AM
  #26  
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First of all.... the truck is brushed, meaning was designed to run a 7 cell NiMh battery which was included if the truck was new in the box. Adding a LiPo battery adds more power but with more power you have to check motor temps, esc temps and battery temps. If your motor gets too hot, lower your pinion gear a tooth or two and keep going down until you achieve a safe temp. If you don't want to wrench your car and just drive, well, get you some NiMh batteries.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:51 PM
  #27  
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I must have missed it. How many turns is your brushed motor? Sounds as if you're demanding to much power from your batts. Excessive heat from your motor would be your first clue. Try a tooth or two smaller on your pinion. Please do yourself a favor and don't spend any more money until you solve the problem.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:01 PM
  #28  
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listen EVERYONE my esc is 2s 3s capable and the motor would have been perfectly fine only for the fact i drove it in salt water and rusted the brushes off and snapped them lol! everything is fine now i have a brushless combo ordered 3900kv 4p motor with a 60a fan cooled esc going to be running on 2s. The other 3s i had were made for 1/16 or 1/18 cars not that huge thing. Think with the brushless upgrade and 2s she will do stand up wheelies?
the wheel axles ended up bending all out of place so the dog bones kept falling out so i got some new ones ordered and now the dog bones are bent from it so i got some new ones ordered and i got a solid steering kit ordered i need some bearings now because when i went in salt water EVERYthing is rusted now all bearings, diff cups, wheel axles, etc. I also somehow ended up blowing out a bearing completely in the rear right tire.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:24 PM
  #29  
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They don't make a salt water version of any rc car. I bought a truggy awhile back, from the upper east coast, cheap. EVERY piece that was metal, ended up being replaced, EVERY piece. My son wonders why I won't run my trucks in the rain and water puddles...Especially not the beach or ocean.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:35 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by spookie
They don't make a salt water version of any rc car. I bought a truggy awhile back, from the upper east coast, cheap. EVERY piece that was metal, ended up being replaced, EVERY piece. My son wonders why I won't run my trucks in the rain and water puddles...Especially not the beach or ocean.
yeah i know but i never thought about it at the time that it was salt water -_-.
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