new to site and this hobby. Totally newb and needs advice and help.
#16
So its better to get a RTR, race it for 20 minutes just to have a poorly built diff fail, then have to go back to the hobby shop and pay someone to fix it because you have no idea whats going on inside your car. Its a frustrating situation I have seen over and over because we live in a world where everyone wants it right now and doesn't have the patience to do it right the first time. I agree RTRs bring several people into the hobby that we would not otherwise have. I also dont mind helping those guys at the track that have no idea what they are doing, but I think its a good idea to start lowering that number of guys that cant adjust their own pinion gears. Some people simply cant build a kit properly no matter if they take their time or not, and for them there will always be guys who "know it all" to help them out when they go buy a RTR.
#17
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
not every 10 year old kid has the abilities to build a kit properly, the right tools, and in today's world probably Dad isn't around much. That's all I'm saying. How old were you when you built a kit all by yourself?? I was about 8 and it sucked. DethRC for example is getting a cheap drifter to have fun with, to learn how to drive, to learn how to build it, how to set it up, should he be forced to build it from scratch because you think he must learn every detail of his kit before he has some fun??
#20
uhhmm. guys. i bought another kit 2ndhand just to disassemble and build it back again.
so i could have the experience of building it. and also once i saw the manual for the e10 i caught a gist of whats goin on in the kit.
so im confident now that i can build one.
so i could have the experience of building it. and also once i saw the manual for the e10 i caught a gist of whats goin on in the kit.
so im confident now that i can build one.
#21
Thats good, it will help you to enjoy the car for years to come. Not that you cant enjoy it if you buy a RTR, but now YOU will know the car in and out. I got my first RC when I was 9 or 10. It was a used Tamiya monster truck in pieces in a box. It took me weeks to build it buying what I needed little by little, but it was so worth it. Hope you have tons of fun and buy more cars in the future!
#22
im think i know a bit about the kits and assembly and gears and stuff.
im still confused about electronics and all that,
tx,rx, servos, motors, esc's and batteries.
and also. Li po's and brushless set-ups.
is there a thread that explains all these?
i search on google and im not really satisfied on what i read in there..
im still confused about electronics and all that,
tx,rx, servos, motors, esc's and batteries.
and also. Li po's and brushless set-ups.
is there a thread that explains all these?
i search on google and im not really satisfied on what i read in there..
#24
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
The On-Road thread has a ton of info on li-po batteries, esc's,everything really. I have had zero problems with my Spektrum DX3.0 radio, recievers and servos and same with my Novak GTB w Velociti 6.5 brushless motor/esc combo and again with my Team Orion Carbon Li-Po's. I haven't had a local place to race so I haven't had the need to get crazy tech gear but honestly I don't need it and my car is stupid fast and everything has worked perfectly for three years.
From what I've read over the years
Castle Mamba brushless systems are extremely good and very economical.
Spektrum radios are very very good but apparently the one's with telemetry are a waste of money because the telemetry doesn't work that good.
Servo's won't be anything you need to worry about until you start racing.
Li-Po's: read up on this as there is lot's of opinions. Basically you can spend a lot of money on quality like Team Orion (kokam) or very little money on a lesser quality like Turnigy. The cheaper battery probably won't last as long as the expensive one but the expensive one can "Puff" too. so although I have had absolutely no problems with my Orions I would recommend you go for the cheaper Turnigy, MaxAmps etc. I have a basic Integy charger that works for me just fine although it's not fancy by any means it does the trick. Remember with Li-Po's there is a very real risk of FIRE so charge your batteries in li-po bag, big coffee tin, pot etc and FOLLOW manufacturers directions ALWAYS. Keep up posted DethRC. Cheers
From what I've read over the years
Castle Mamba brushless systems are extremely good and very economical.
Spektrum radios are very very good but apparently the one's with telemetry are a waste of money because the telemetry doesn't work that good.
Servo's won't be anything you need to worry about until you start racing.
Li-Po's: read up on this as there is lot's of opinions. Basically you can spend a lot of money on quality like Team Orion (kokam) or very little money on a lesser quality like Turnigy. The cheaper battery probably won't last as long as the expensive one but the expensive one can "Puff" too. so although I have had absolutely no problems with my Orions I would recommend you go for the cheaper Turnigy, MaxAmps etc. I have a basic Integy charger that works for me just fine although it's not fancy by any means it does the trick. Remember with Li-Po's there is a very real risk of FIRE so charge your batteries in li-po bag, big coffee tin, pot etc and FOLLOW manufacturers directions ALWAYS. Keep up posted DethRC. Cheers
#27
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
I think the danger is overhyped especially with teh current lipos. The older ones were much more volatile and could cause probs. I've seen them explode on impact in a elec plane crash. They don't do that anymore.
If you use a charger with a lipo charge routine and balance cells while charging and discharging, treat hem with teh care and respect they need, you'll likely never have a prob.
Your radio quest - yes, it should run more than one RC with same radio by just using another rx (compatible) in diff RCs. I run about 2 dozen diff RC models using 2 diff radios - mine is all FM since I got started some time ago before 2.4 was even mentioned. It should work the same way though.
If you use a charger with a lipo charge routine and balance cells while charging and discharging, treat hem with teh care and respect they need, you'll likely never have a prob.
Your radio quest - yes, it should run more than one RC with same radio by just using another rx (compatible) in diff RCs. I run about 2 dozen diff RC models using 2 diff radios - mine is all FM since I got started some time ago before 2.4 was even mentioned. It should work the same way though.
#28
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
My Spektrum DX3.0 came with two recievers and two servo's and you can program the transmitter for multiple cars. I have different transmitter profiles for the same car for different types of tracks. You can change the amount of steering, throttle, brakes etc. A really cool thing you can do is called Exponential sensitivity so you can adjust how sensitive your throttle, brakes or steering. Say you want to reduce your throttle sensitivity so you don't do burn outs every time you pull the trigger or you don't want your steering to be really touchy. You can change it the opposite way too so you can have a very unsensitive (i know that's not a word but it's early) steering/throttle/breaks until you get to a certain percentage of your throttle/steering/breaks than it becomes really sensitive.
#29
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
WELCOME to the hobby From what I have heard the HPI Drift kits are the cheapest. Considering almost every hobby store carries HPI parts it would be a wise decision. Bang for the buck would be picking up a used one that was barely used or is in good shape at least. But if your goal is for new then stick with it.
Yokomo also offers a drifter and I've heard its just as good as the HPI if not better but parts will be your #1 problem as Yokomo is no longer around.
The good part about the HPI drifter is the fact that it starts you off on a basic platform to learn RC engineering and how things work ... it also has an endless amount of aftermarket upgrades so you can upgrade the car as you please along the way to make it bettering in all aspects.
Drifting is fun especially when you add the nice bodies and light kits everywhere.
I've seen some cool drifter RC cars around. Good luck w/your search!
Jay
Yokomo also offers a drifter and I've heard its just as good as the HPI if not better but parts will be your #1 problem as Yokomo is no longer around.
The good part about the HPI drifter is the fact that it starts you off on a basic platform to learn RC engineering and how things work ... it also has an endless amount of aftermarket upgrades so you can upgrade the car as you please along the way to make it bettering in all aspects.
Drifting is fun especially when you add the nice bodies and light kits everywhere.
I've seen some cool drifter RC cars around. Good luck w/your search!
Jay
#30
I think the danger is overhyped especially with teh current lipos. The older ones were much more volatile and could cause probs. I've seen them explode on impact in a elec plane crash. They don't do that anymore.
If you use a charger with a lipo charge routine and balance cells while charging and discharging, treat hem with teh care and respect they need, you'll likely never have a prob.
Your radio quest - yes, it should run more than one RC with same radio by just using another rx (compatible) in diff RCs. I run about 2 dozen diff RC models using 2 diff radios - mine is all FM since I got started some time ago before 2.4 was even mentioned. It should work the same way though.
If you use a charger with a lipo charge routine and balance cells while charging and discharging, treat hem with teh care and respect they need, you'll likely never have a prob.
Your radio quest - yes, it should run more than one RC with same radio by just using another rx (compatible) in diff RCs. I run about 2 dozen diff RC models using 2 diff radios - mine is all FM since I got started some time ago before 2.4 was even mentioned. It should work the same way though.
i got scared once i read that it will just explode or catch fire.
but im gonna learn more about it and not rush into this. or i might get F***ed.
ahh. about the frequencies. i read in the HPI manual that I only need to use AM.
Wats the difference in AM and FM in the rc world?
cheers.