24k in my short course and geared kinda high shouldn't be a problem....should it?.....it's tight track ......look at avatar...

Just check your temps, I shoot for max 150, but some go as high as 160-180.

24K
 

It's all good! I was just referring to the Manual. I have to different types of motor checkers (SkyRC,G Force) and every motor I have tested including my Certified motor's the timing that is shown on the end Bell has never been the same as the timing on my dynos. Most are much lower! I have seen up to 10* of timing difference. I never really pay attention to end Bell mark's until a test them, and then I just scratch I new mark. So test your motor's you might be surprised I was!

True, I use the motor checker for accurate readings. Of all the motors I have (12) the best one is 4* less the end bell. All others range from 5-10* less.

24K
 

Most of the time I leave the timing as is! However, when I do trun it up I usually go 5-10*. Now I only run Certified motor's but I do have a couple of Trinity motor's tuned by Express Motorsports (EMS) excellent motor's by the way. Oh! I always replace the bearings with Trinity's ceramic bearings after the first dyno run avg gain 300-500 RPMS after full break-in. Oh! and by the why the outside timing mark's show 55* timing when its only 47* another benefit of a dyno.

are grade 5 bearings one step below ceramics?

24K
 

Yes I believe so!

hey guys, looking to possibly pic up one of these motors for 2wd buggy blinky racing?

How does the EA Motor sports version compare to just the regular 24K?

Do any of you recommend a link to proper motor tuning for stock racing? I got a motor tester here, don't really know much of what to look for so curious on suggestions for guys who run a lot of stock / spec classes.

Check out this forum on the motor checker

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...r-checker.html

Tuning
 

I use amps to set my motor's most manufacturer do! More amps less run time more heat! More timing less torque. My motor is set at 47* amps draw is 3.8 I can run 6 mins with this and motor temps stay around 170-175* excellent temp in my book! Track time is important remember it's not a chassis dyno so track time shows all. Have fun with it! It does make a difference.

thanks, I'll give that thread a look and I'll see if I can detremine what brand tester I have here.

So 24ko for sct and ST 17.5?

24k for buggy 17.5?

I don't own 24KO,
But I have done a lot of research before buying my 24k 17.5
People are saying 24KO aren't impressive at all compared to the motors they had.
Some also commented that they should have gotten 24K instead.
I think 24KO looks good on paper, but seems to not perform as well as 24k.
Just wanted to share my observation after a few days of research.

They are probably sold that way but bearing grade is a tolerance rating, separate from material. The ceramic bearings are likely also grade 5 (aka. ABEC-5).

There is also another "grade" rating for bearing balls themselves, 2 to 1,000 that refers to the accuracy/roundness in millionth's of an inch. In this scale, the lower number is better.

The ceramic bearings we see in the hobby are actually hybrid ceramic (ceramic balls, steel races). They can be a little faster but are almost always less durable, due the the greater difference in hardness between the races and balls.

As with anything, quality of materials is as important as manufacturing accuracy but we don't usually get that kind of information.

Si!

I've actually been very impressed with my express Motorsports 17.5t 24KO motor in a MM 22sct. I was using a pro spec fantom ion4 before the 24KO & the the EM 24KO performs better on the track and runs cooler. I did have to find the optimal gearing and end bell motor timing for my track, setup, etc

Here's the can data and the max RPM from my last race..

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...psonsgsedk.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...psoerw2adx.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2l9vzfkl.jpg

EMS
 

I also own a few EMS motor's! They run great well tuned.

think I'll give the EAM version a look if I decide to get one.

Will say I like the look lol

anyone got opinions on the 24K in 1/10 4wd buggy in say the 10.5 to 13.5 variety? May try a spec 1/10 4wd buggy.

can't wait to drop this my buggy. I'm fortunate enough to see the Trinity guys at my local track. That motor works, pretty much everyone around here is running that 24k.

24k
 

I'm going to run Certified 24k 13.5 in my K2 Super Stock!

Why not the KO version?

What esc do u guys use with this motor. I'm looking to put in my xb2

Orion R10

24KO
 

I'm concerning that as well! for now I'm focused on reducing weight!

Tekin
 

I'm using Tekin RSX no issues here!

yeah curious on more opinions of the KO.

seems that what they are saying you would be able to take advantage of the motors differences with more agressive gearing and better performance in 4wd buggy, but curious what people are seeing in the real world.

And for those with the Express Motorsports version, how do they compare to the whole "certified" motors? Are you seeing the $50 diff?

Gearing is the key my friend! I have EMS in 17.5 & 13.5 24k version and Certified 24k along with D4 Certified motors with the same verisons and on both my dynos the EMS motor's are right up there with the Certified motor's and in some motor's better! EMS Rock's and the price is right!

good stuff. for the effective "$5" more, may just spring for those lol.

So now just got to decide between a KO and a regular. run 1/10 2wd buggy and other vehicle will probably be a 1/10 4wd buggy or 2wd sct. Looking for torque.

If just the 17.5 & 13.5 I use the HW Justock (to reduce weight and still well within the limits of the ESC).

Any higher wind I use the HW v3.1

I would choose the 24k for buggy and ST and even 4WD if geared right.

The 24KO version just seems to be a little sluggish with little to no performance improvements over the D4. IMHO

cool thanks!

The 24k is more suited for blinky classes. You may want to try the KO in classes that use boosted.

yeah if I do this motor in 13.5 it will most likley be in a blinky mode.

Has anyone tried any of the 24K mod motors yet? I am currently using the 17.5 but am planning on switching to mod. I'm curious about how the short stack stator will perform in a mod motor. Lookig at the 7.5 probably.

anybody???

For a mod motor it doesn't matter. In mod you have freedom to change a lot more about a motor. With a spec motor, (like a 17.5) it is always gonna be about who can make the most power within the rules. Mod, if an 8.5 isn't enough, put in a 7.5. Don't like the power band of a particular motor in Mod? Change the rotor, lower the timing, gear it down. Do any of those things to a spec motor by just a little too much and you go from making an adjustment to the power delivery, to not being able to clear that one jump. 17.5 to a 7.5 is a big jump. How consistent are your laps in 17.5?

50 on the can marking isn't 50. I have a couple of these motors and most of the time at the 50 mark its somewhere between 43-47. Its normally a bit lower than marked. And the motor really produces more power at over 50 timing set on a motor analyzer, which normally will show close to 55 to 60 on the can.

Most of my motors are timed between the 50-53 range on the analyzer, and it will normally pull around 7.0A.

Certs make over 30K Rpm with a 17.5, non-cert are just under 30k. 28-29K
21.5T 23k @7.2A & Non certs will pull 21-22k.

As for certified vs non certified, the certified 24k are normally about 10%-15% or more faster out of the box vs the 24k. With a bit of tweaking on the timing and shimming and adjusting the tightness of the sensor board you can get it about 3-5% of a certified. Also there is a bigger variance of performance using a non-cert. You might get one really fast, or you might have a dud that can even make 19k rpm. I tested 2 certs, and 6 non certs in the 17.5T and 1 cert and 5 non certs in the 21.5T

Another thing, these motors have more RPM than some other motors, so you can always run a pinion or 2 less than your D4 and still have similar torque and more top end.

24k is better for a buggy or a large flowing Touring track
I prefer the KO in a 4WD or 2WD SCT or a mixed technical track.
D4 maxzilla for a small tight touring track as you can take advantage of a full stator for torque.

The 24k seems better in larger flowing tracks as its more of a mid-top end motor. Thus I always run a pinion or 2 less and let the motor REV.

https://youtu.be/IG-IaC7X_z8

https://youtu.be/N6q4xQvsB1M

I posted those two videos to compare the "noise" I have in my brand new certified 17.5 24k motor. It was cogging really bad at first, so I turned up my min. throttle on my Tekin rs gen 1 esc to 15%....up from 5% I used to have it set at, I also set my NW to 0, down from 15%, and my throttle profile to 5, from 3. The cog is gone, but I shouldn't have to set up my esc like that to get out of my cog issue. I have replaced the sensor wire and that helped but didn't get rid of it. I emailed trinity and Kevin got back to me very quickly. After talking to him on the phone I am going to send it back to them so they can check everything out. He did offer to send me a new sensor board for free, but I just assumed have them check it out just to be sure. He said, there is no reason the motor should cog at all. And as others have said He said honestly the $50 dollar Hobby Wing ESC is PERFECT for running in blinky stock with this motor. They do max out the punch, and run it as aggressively as possible though.

Am I being paranoid here???

If the company is saying that the $50 dollar Hobby Wing esc is perfect for this motor, why waste money on something more expensive. If it's not about providing amps is it honestly about "feeling", "settings", or "ability to increase esc timing"?

I'm beginning to understand why the old man at our local shop thinks its ridiculous how insane people get about obsessing over these minute details when honestly the people who win are just better drivers. I find myself becoming way too OCD about the hop ups and settings rather than just focusing on becoming a better driver.

30k RPM??? My certified 17.5 24k had 22,498 written on the label!!!