Mines cogging on initial take off......replaced sensor wire, problem still exists!

However once the car is moving, problem is non existent.

Be interesting on the starting grid.....NOT!

Sensor board. Call them, they replaced my brand new one with the same issue with a new one and it's all good.

They all will perform diferently, with the same tune on ESC....and being all 10.5" so my asking's.

Yes a 7.5 will be faster, more heat and more amps runing around....

I had this same issue. What ESC are you using? I recently tried the Tekin RSX and I had cogging issues while using RSX throttle minimum set to 1. If I changed the TM to 3, no cogging. I didn't care for the ESC, so I went back to my Reedy Blackbox and I've had no problems.

It's actually a tekin gen2.

"Throttle minimum " ....? Can't find it onboard quick tune feature...

Do you mean "NW(neutral width)"?

It's a Hot Link adjustable feature.

24K advertised weight?
 

FYI?

I weighed my 17.5 24K SS tonight and it came in at 162g
then weighed my 17.5 D4 170g. Trinity boast about the new 24K is 8-9g lighter.

The strange part is the older 17.5 D41S (SS) only weighs 158g? It is even lighter than the 24k.

BTW I have at least 2 of each:

17.5 24k SS 162.1, 162.2
17.5 D4 1S 157.8, 158.1
17.5 D4 169.9, 170.1

Thanx sir

You mean D4 1S right? Theses are the weights of each one you own?

One of the screw holes on the timing ring stripped. I've sent two emails to customer service and no reply. To purchase aluminum ring is about $11 plus $5 minimum transaction fee and $20 to ship. $20 to ship via UPS ground which takes more than a week FL to WA? That is absolutely ridiculous for a small piece of aluminum! Trinity's shipping policy is Fn insane.

Can I put a drop of thread lock in there?

See if you can find a Tap and Drill Bit Set and tap it.

I think its like 1.5 or 1.3 mm tap

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-12-...1057/204758835

If you can still find one they make a steel timing ring for 24k that would probably work better. I stripped the aluminum ring in my d4 the first time I tried to adjust it and switched to a steel ring and have never had a problem since.

I had to turn the ring around. This motor is fast and light, but at a cost of it feeling solid.

Yes, sorry D4.

Yes these are the actual weights of the Trinity 17.5s I own.

I finally heard back from Trinity. They said I could replace the timing ring myself, but they recommend I have access to a meter that can measure amp draw. Why? It's just replacing the timing ring. Aren't those stamped out in bulk?

You need to set the timing correctly.

Anyone having sensor issues with the 24k? I have three of them and the two cars that use Reedy Black Boxes won't detect the motor after I turn the esc on. The third car has a Tekin and I have no troubles. I have to unplug the sensor cable in order for the esc to activate. If I change to a different non-24k motor, I have no issues with the black boxes. I wonder if it is a compatibility issues?

No issues with an express motorssports 24k with a HW v3.1 esc..

No issue on mine running with Novak Impact.

When I spoke to Trinity, they said most of their team drivers are using the HobbyWing ESC.

+1

I found one other person using a similar set up. Reedy black box and 24k. No throttle response when turned on.

I changed motors and problem goes away. Starting to think it may be a reedy problem.

how come they don't put the name "trinity" on the 24k?...don't they produce it?

So looking for a little advice on timing and gearing for the 24ko for people who are running them in either 17.5 Stadium Truck or 17.5 buggy. I tried mine for the first time last night in Stadium truck and it seemed like a dog. Ran timing from 48 to 53 degrees and geared anywhere from 72/29 to 72/32. It seemed the 'fastest' at 53 degrees at 72/32 but it was a little hot (150's) at the end of a heat race so I started backing some things off.

I've got a D4 1S that is very fast in my buggy so I kind of started around the same settings on this 24ko.

Dude that gearing is for a buggy. I run my D41s and 24k at 50-53*.
For my TLR22T 2.0 I run 76/24-26 (FDR 7.10-7.70) depending on how technical the track is. With your gearing it will be fast down the straight but nothing off the jumps or corners.

Just some info that was given to me from Team T


The goal is to keep the motor under 180.

Below that the lower the temperature, the better the motor will finish the race (less fade).

As long as keep the motor under 180 no damage will happen.

For example, in hot summer in a touring car with track temps in the 150 range, motor temp can get to 180 easily so a fan is a must. Racing indoor offroad depending on the layout and class, our team guys run the motor 130-165.
In all 1 cell applications we try to keep the motor below 150. Anything above that fades hard at the end of a run and there is not enough voltage to push the motor.

I hope this helps
Thanks
Mark
TRINCORP LLC

24K
 

That temp is good a little hotter wouldn't hurt none! Not sure if your indoors or out and the outside temp but my motor temps of my motor's run around 170-175* my track is short and technical indoors temp around 70-75*. Winter time here in Colorado. My gearing is around 6.19:1 (72/30) on my KF2 6 minute run's no fan and 30* timing.

It's Revtech.

I hate to say it, but I think you bought the wrong motor. You should be using the 24K. I use the 24k in my 2wd, ST, and SCT. I had the 24ko and promptly replaced it with the regular 24k. I thought the same thing that the motor was a dog. I couldn't gear nor time it high enough to keep up with my D41s. There was also some very large noticeable power fade around the four minute mark.

I'm loving the 24k and even upgraded my buggy and truck to the certified version of the 24k. It's a beast of a motor! I also run a standard 24k 13.5 in SCT and I get a lot of people question the motor I use once they see how fast it is.

The 24k is leaps and bounds faster than the previous D4.

I had better luck w/ the ko in 13.5 SCT... the k was lacking in power before the end of a race.. the ko is strong thru the entire race. They use the same rotor the blank is different, how it handles heat.. the KO can take more heat w/o washing. All rotors are not created equal nor motors... and tbh my maxilla 17.5 which also uses the same rotor is faster and better than the 17.5k I tried. Again not all motors/rotors are created equal so from motor to motor person to person results can very.

whats the problem with running a 24k outdoors?......with the large openings....i heard that it is not recommened...i think thats a bunch of bs....anybody else hear anything about this?

Nope. I ran it outside with no issues.

You are correct this is BS.

What is the best motor for a sc5m the 24k or the Ko in 17.5 and what gearing. Thanks for any help

You wanna get the KO for a Sct or Stadium truck. I'm not sure about AE gearing but I use 75 / 23 w/ 58 degree on my 22sct..

Timing
 

I don't run either but that timing is way to much! Trinity recommends no more than 50*

The timing on my motor was recommend by a trinity team driver. I haven't had an issue with overheating or motor fading..

Mine even came from the factory at over 50* timing. But no clogging and didn't overheat. I think people should so more testing and find out what works for them.

all my hand built certified motors have came with timing over 50. A couple at 60.

Who told you that? I have several Trinity D4s and all are tuned to 50 or above. I have returned 2 to Trinity for repair and they both came back at 55*. I talked to Kevin Abbott from Trinity about my motors and he stated the D4 1S came alive at 50 and above.

I have tuned my motors for maximum rpm/kv vs. amp draw and they all come at around 50+. They never get hot (120-140 degrees after 10 min run)

You may think I am attacking you I am not, but if you refer to the D4 1S and 17.5 motor strings you will see what I am talking about.

I have a 24k and I have yet to place it on my motor checker but the end bell is set to 55* from Trinity.