End bell timing vs test
 

Just bought 24ko end bell set at 50 from factory per the instructions. Tested with my G force program box and it shows 38 degrees?? Any thought?

End bell timing marks are "never" accurate. That is why I always use a motor checker. Also motors do not perform the same at the same timing, again shy I use the motor checker to get a reference as to correct timing and amp draws.

12* split is the largest I've ever seen though. I bet the phases are all over the place too. 38-55-45 <- example.

Just bought a 24KO. end bell came set at 50 deg like the factory said. my Gforce Progbox says the motor timing is 38 deg. the performance was only fair and ran cool <130.

I think I will move the end bell until I get 50 deg on the readout box and see what happens. Any comments??

That's a big split between end bell and actual. Do you have someone with a motor checker to validate yours? If not I would contact Trinity and ask if that is normal? The biggest split I have ever had is 9, most are within 5 degrees.

Just ordered my Trinity 24K 6.5T from Amain hobbies.

Curious to see how it compares to my Trinity D4 6.5T.

I'm still fairly new to 2WD MOD class with my RB6.

Any gearing recommendations?

anxious to hear your thoughts on the motor, i have the 17.5 but have been eyeing up a 6.5 for mod too.

I've never raced stock class before. But I can say this. The D4 6.5T is a little to much on the RB6 but, it's makes for a really smooth setup.

On high bite it will nose up even turning in at 35-40mph.

I can't wait to try the Trinity 24K to see how it compares.

Amainhobbies just shipped my Trinity 24K 6.5T motor.

I will have it on the 5th of this month on Thursday.
I will post back with pics, and what not comparing it to my Trinity D4 6.5T

It's not a replacement by any means, as I love my D4! We will see.

Thanks everyone. This thread needs some more action lol.

So, I've been doing a ton of work with my 21.5t 24k in USGT. I started with a roll out of 3.9 and it was pretty dang good. I tried lower at 3.8 and my lap times dropped. So, I went the other way and the car got much faster! I ran all the way up to 4.14 and the car was still crazy fast. I have finally settles on a final ratio of 4.09.

On a side note, I tested several different high end batteries with this motor and nothing unlocked the true power of the motor like the Trinity HV Whitecarbon pack! Don't go big on motor and forget about your battery!

The 24k likes to rev and is it more of a RPM motor. I run between 4 to 4.2 on the FDR on small or mid sized indoor tracks. Timing is between 48 to 53. I tried low timing with a lower FDR but this motor prefers higher timing and a higher FDR. If you have a motor checker, try to get the max rpm and kv without a spike in amp draw as you move up on the timing. If the amp suddenly spikes as you move up another degree, you went to far.

HV will unlock more and tested it against other HV packs, they are all comparable between brands.

Just got mine today! Ready to run it this weekend in my RB6. I am running TrakPower 100C 5200MAH saddle packs. I have successfully charged them to 4.35V several cycles without issues. They have a ton of punch!


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you shouldnt charge those past 4.22/cell if theyre not the HV lipo.

I know I shouldn't but I have charged over 15 different brand lipos at 4.35V no puffing, or swelling. Some of my venom have nearly 200 cycles at this voltage.

I'm not sure if it's a marketing gimmick or not lol.

I love Team Trinity products. There lipos and motors are amazing. I have (3) Trinity motors now. And I don't doubt there LIHV Lipo carbon packs are good. But, I have yet to find a standard Lipo that will not reliably charge to 4.35V per cell.

I run only Trakpower 100C
Saddles right now. I've been very happy with them

Anyone know the best break in method for a new Trinity motor?

Also, my Trinity D4 6.5T has a 12.5MM broad power band "Red" rotor.

My Trinity 24K revtech 6.5T has a 12.00MM Med-high RPM "Blue" rotor.

I love revving to the moon! But, if I want more torque for my ZX6 can't I just switch them around? What if I put the certified rotors for extreme RPM in there?

Does this affect the motor turns? Or any down sides to this ?

The certified rotors have stronger guass numbers for the rotors and are suppose to be better balanced between sides of the rotor in terms of magnetic strength. If anything the certified will give you more torque, not RPM.

If you want extreme RPM you can opt to use a mid torque rotor or try a 12.3mm rotor.