I regular and SS and certified. I will only race the SS certified. definitely a difference.

SS is faster and stronger.
Certified are faster, stronger, smoother and have the preferred timing already set. Usually around 55* timing.

If your looking for a very good ESC, low $$$. HobbyWing JustStock.

I have the SS 1s maxzilla. Is the certified version really that much faster? I am debating if I should put my current one in my t4 or when I get my T5m and get a certified one for my B5M lite

INFO on MOTORS

1s maxzilla too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acCXxD5SyJs

Would Hobbywing Quicrun 60amp sensored ESC work well with the Trinity D417.5t?

http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=299

Only if you keep the motor under 13.5. You will never be able to run mod motors.

I would recommend for cheap and still be able to run up to a 8.5t off-road motor.

Hobbywing EZRun 60A Sensorless Brushless ESC
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...010190/p279146

I have tested a few D4's and the timing sensor board tolerance is the biggest difference I have found. Certified motors tend to have a very close tolerance in timing between A-B-C. Non-Certified can have as much or more difference of 10 degrees.

One Example:

Non-Cert: A-48*, B-54*, 47* average 50*
Certified: A-50*, B-51*, 50* average 50*

With the certified motor I was able to achieve the same KV and RPM rating with less timing and amp draw.

I tweeked the sensor board with the non-certs and brought the degrees in closer. Being able to lower the timing and the KV/RPM rating and lower the amp draw.

I am sure there are more differences being in the top 5%, but this is just an upfront look using a motor analyzer.

I don't know what you mean by keeping it below 13.5t...... Also being that the motor is sensored, wouldn't I need a sensored esc?

I just got the turquoise rotor for my motor and I have never changed one out before. Do I just use the spacers/shims that came with the rotor and call it good or is there end play measurements and such that needs to be done?
Thanks

there is a video on trinity's fb page that shows jim deiter replacing a sensor board in a d4. it says to space the rotor about a millimeter away from the sensors if I remember correctly. I would take a look to make sure.

You don't need a sensored ESC because the motor has sensors. You need a sensored ESC because a sensorless ESC has difficulty starting a high wind motor with the rollouts (gearing) and batteries (1S/2S) typically used with such motors.

This ESC is only good for 13.5, 17.5 and 21.5 motors. You can not use with 10.5 thru 5.5 motors.

So.. I've gotten my motor hot in a couple runs.. Temps in the 190's in one run. Adjusted. And got them down to the mid high 160's in my touring car.. The last run i changed gearing.. As well as turned timing down to 50. I haven't run it since.. But in the last run.. The car seemed to lose power after about 3 or so mins.. I plan on turning the timing back to stock 30 and see if that helps.

My question.. Since I have run it hot.. And very hot once.. Is the motor damaged? Should I buy another motor?

Thanks so much for the info. I might just look into a certified motor now lol!

Jim Dieter says to inspect the stator to see if the copper wire coils have started to melt into the plastic shield that sits between the coils and the rotor. Specifically on the endbell side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecDahZ32eC4