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[QUOTE=thecman26;13683413]Oh trust me it's alive! I had it at 50* with the 38/69 but was looking for a lil more punch outta the corners so I dropped it to 40*.
It also isn't a stock D4, it's the super crazy matched Fantom Ion V5 with all the upgrades. Looking at CB's cut gears as my next upgrade. Trying to not buy the carbon chassis right now. :sneaky:[/QUOTE/] This is my personal opinion but I feel you are geared to tall. I think you will find the pop you are looking for while still maintaining your top end speed by dropping down to a 34 pinion and keep the timing at 50. Actually most of the AE guys i run with run 32/72 in the MM car for a little more pop. If the car still lacks a little top end at 34/69 50* then try 55*. |
Originally Posted by racer888
(Post 13682776)
Start with 50 deg on the can still too?
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If you are serious about stock racing then this is a must. http://www.trinityrc.net/shop/index....product_id=695
This is one of the only ways to set up two motors identically. The markings on the can are great for a reference point but they can vary quite a bit from motor to motor. I can tell you first hand that none of the D4's I own pull the same amp draw at 50 degrees timing. This is due to differences in build tolerances. This is a great tool to have in your arsenal. I believe there is a 20% off sale with code 112814 on the site right now if you spend over $100. Grab them while you can. |
Ok 25/75 can timing almost at 60 deg gives me right about 10 amps on my amp clamp meter (positive wire between esc and battery) when holding full throttle for about 4 secs to stabilize. With when off of drive train still hooked up. Does this sound right? Ran and street and scams to be really fast. Local track don't open till Thursday for club race the Jc concept is after that.
Is it bad to bump my throttle end point to 150%? There is a HUGE performance increase if I calibrate my orion r10 pro at 100% epa then increase epa. Thanks for advice!! Need to get one of these for my buggy too. |
Originally Posted by racer888
(Post 13690295)
Ok 25/75 can timing almost at 60 deg gives me right about 10 amps on my amp clamp meter (positive wire between esc and battery) when holding full throttle for about 4 secs to stabilize. With when off of drive train still hooked up. Does this sound right? Ran and street and scams to be really fast. Local track don't open till Thursday for club race the Jc concept is after that.
Is it bad to bump my throttle end point to 150%? There is a HUGE performance increase if I calibrate my orion r10 pro at 100% epa then increase epa. Thanks for advice!! Need to get one of these for my buggy too. |
What about raise my throttle epa to 150% on my tx... is that not a good thing to do or is it ok?
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Originally Posted by racer888
(Post 13690540)
What about raise my throttle epa to 150% on my tx... is that not a good thing to do or is it ok?
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Originally Posted by elex300
(Post 13690673)
If you set your epa to 100 and calibrate your esc then turn the epa to 150 you do not gain any speed.
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Rotors are interchangeable.
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Yes
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Originally Posted by racer888
(Post 13690959)
Sounds weird but on my spektrum dx3c I do...i have 2 of them and they both do it. Maybe it's just a spektrum thing idk.
Think about it this way, if we could gain extra power by simply cranking up the epa, everyone would be doing it. |
Originally Posted by 071crazy
(Post 13693834)
You are not gaining any top speed. If you calibrate vs 100% epa and then crank it to 150%, you are simply setting the radio to reach full throttle at a smaller trigger travel. In other words, you are turning the throttle into a light switch.
Think about it this way, if we could gain extra power by simply cranking up the epa, everyone would be doing it. |
Ok almost dialed in started last night at 26/75 with 55 deg on can and lacked punch for jumps AND was getting walked in the straight away. Went to 28/75 and was a little better...then went back to losi stock 24/78 with 55 deg and it came alive but got a little warmer than I'd like in a 6 min run but I found myself having to let off throttle coming out of sweeper and never had to do that and able to clear all jumps no matter where I hit them from. My mains will be 8 min.
So after race was over i tried a 25/78 with 50 deg and it got even hotter (only ran for 3-4 minutes) and lacked from previous gearing....do you think I should drop to a 23 and time it to temp? Running a tlr 22sct 2.0 with the d4 17.5 and orion r10 pro with mod software and zero esc timing/blinky.... |
I'd go back to the 24t and drop the timing a little. 55 seems pretty high. Mine seems happiest and best performance between 45 and 50 on the timing.
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Originally Posted by elex300
(Post 13683498)
If you are serious about stock racing then this is a must. http://www.trinityrc.net/shop/index....product_id=695
This is one of the only ways to set up two motors identically. The markings on the can are great for a reference point but they can vary quite a bit from motor to motor. I can tell you first hand that none of the D4's I own pull the same amp draw at 50 degrees timing. This is due to differences in build tolerances. This is a great tool to have in your arsenal. I believe there is a 20% off sale with code 112814 on the site right now if you spend over $100. Grab them while you can. |
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