Yeah, good call. They have that 1435+ for 51 and 1400-1434 for 40

two I got.

1441
1440
and
1452
1428

I will have to check again But I think I did 72/32, either that or 69/32. I don't have any track time with it yet as it was DOA with a bad sensor board.

Been messing around with my D4 as well and I have been testing it on the Motolyser that I have and it seems to have a sweet spot right around 58*~60* on the can which is actually reads about 6*~7* lower than the reading on the Motolyser and with a 12.5 standard rotor ( not 5% ) the gearing seems to be the best in the 5.32~5.44 range comes off the track without a Fan in my TRF201xmw at 155* after about 7mins... the motor has quite a bit more torque than my R1 Wurks... but the top end is similar.. overall good motor.. can't wait till we start to see the 5% stuff on the D4 :nod:

The Motolyser is a great tool to have. Im gonna try and grab one very soon. Do you know what your amp draw was with the 58-60 timing?

I can tell you what it was at with no load on the motor at 58* timing on the can ( 65* motolyser ) ... ;)

2.81amps / 18200rpm / 1975KV

That sounds a lot better to me then this 10-12 amp stuff. But again its probably from the different way of measuring amp draw. From personal experience it just seems with those real high settings the battery has to lose punch pretty quick.

My Express tuned motors all have rotors over 1500 +-10

Very good. Im really looking forward to see the numbers on the 5% stators when combined with the 5% rotor. Should be very fast.

what are you using to measure? Most likely a different value than my meter. Most of my Tag motors are usually in the 1430 range.

I sent you a pm

Yes his Motolyser is using a different unit of measure than the inline. Im betting if he was to use an inline meter with that much timing he is easily around 12 amps.

I know this is getting the thread off topic slightly, however, would you use the same amp draw in a SCT as you would in a 2wd buggy? I've recently turned my motor back to factory 0 timing and geared up to get the most torque, but thinking by doing the method in this thread, I may be able to get more out of the motor.

Trying to decide between this and the R1 Wurks. I bought a D3.5 literally a week before this came out trying to get back into the sport and now I am trying to make sure that everything is kosher or at least have a kosher setup for big non club races

read thru these pages and then decide. Been discussed ;)

The R1 is a d3.5 for the most part. From what I am hearing the D4 has more torque the the R1 and about the same top end. You just have to set it up right to get the maximum potential out of it. I have never run the R1 but I can tell you the D4 rocks!