Noticed you have a D4 for sale... Is it only becuz you want to run mod?

that's what he put in his ad. why would he say anything different here?

Never know, figured I'd ask him directly...

Made some great progress with the d4 last night on a 8/10th scale size track with high bite sugar. Settled on 36/72 60timing and was 145degrees after 6 minutes. Went all the way up to 38/72 45 timing and came off at 150 in 6 minutes. I felt I lost alot of torque going that high on gearing. I am ordering a high torque rotor next. The car is a b5m at 1530grams rtr.

Did you find the engine solder points had to be rotated to the rear of car? If not shoot a pic so I can see your motor in the b5m.

You need to flip the mount plate on the motor. What's your email i can show you a pic.

[email protected]

Looked at flipping it but didn't want to take apart and have parts in my hand.

Thanks.

You don't have to have parts in your hand. Just unscrew the three screws and rotate the front end bell and screw the screws back in. You don't have to pull out the rotor or anything.

i finally got a replacement sensor board and got to run mine. i have a certified hi torque rotor in it. honest opinion initially is that i can run the killshot double torque faster and cooler then this motor. d4 - geared the same as killshot but @ 57 degrees timing (what i run killshot at), it got to 150 degrees quicker, turned it back down to 50 and it is just not as quick as the killshot. but has gobs of torque. gonna solder up bullets on the watt meter and play with that tonight.

I did some more testing this week with 2wd buggy and 2wd SC. With the SC it seemed to like the timing around 50 and gearing 24/75. I also tried something different from what I have been running in buggy. Instead of the high 10-12 amp draw with lower gearing 28/70,I tried less timing 50 to put the natural torque to work and geared it taller 34/70. With this set up I felt the power better on the bottom. The top end was still there but it took a lot less throttle to clear obstacles. I was actually over shooting smaller jumps at first but then adjusted my driving. Im gonna run this for a while and see where I end up.

Keep us posted. What gearing?

i have an rb6 w slipper eliminator so running 64p gears, 88/42 which is like running 66/32 in 48p. i have a watt's up meter, a lil pricey, but american made. i took my rear tires off and did the same setup that erik suggested. i have about 52-53 degrees timing on the can, running through an orion r10 pro, my max amp draw was at 4.9amps. how do you get up to 10-12amp draw? or do those pucks and ceramic bearings go a long way in efficiency?

You wont hit 10 amps untill you get to about 58-60 degrees timing on the motor can.

Did I hear that the D4 is ROAR approved officially?

Pretty sure it was approved before it was released to the public