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Is it ok to lose the switch and just bridge it? On will this cause problems with the esc being on when you connect your batteries?
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Originally Posted by .AJ.
(Post 12672175)
Is it ok to lose the switch and just bridge it? On will this cause problems with the esc being on when you connect your batteries?
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Originally Posted by roblupo
(Post 12671556)
can you RIT die the white case? I like it but stands out a lot and shows dirt easy, dont want black maybe hot pink haha
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Originally Posted by Mullet1
(Post 12670203)
rotor delaminating (not sure if the right term). One motor is there at Tekin for warranty and another coming Monday.
dex408t smc 7200's (I also use maxamps and Revtech) 19/60 (which you suggested) cityblocks Futaba 4pks Super R 2 minutes into running car it stopped and motor "locked up". Terrible electrical smell. NEVER got over 180 degrees Losi 2.0 T Revtech 6700 4s (Also use maxamps, trakpower, smc and trinity) 15/45 cityblocks Futaba 4pks Super R motor never got over 180 degrees. |
Originally Posted by roblupo
(Post 12671556)
can you RIT die the white case? I like it but stands out a lot and shows dirt easy, dont want black maybe hot pink haha
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 12672602)
The setups gearing wise and battery wise are fine. Rotors debonding is a rare failure. Knowing yours were under geared before, this may have already started and finally just failed after the gearing correction. Yes if the motors are within their warranty period, it's covered.
The Losi was never under geared. |
Originally Posted by Mullet1
(Post 12672962)
under gearing would debond a rotor?
The Losi was never under geared. We will not make any "yup is was this" comments without having failed items in hand and after inspection. |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 12673336)
Free revving a rotor can cause a a failure, yes. I'm not saying that was the case here, only that it could have contributed.
We will not make any "yup is was this" comments without having failed items in hand and after inspection. |
Got to run eBuggy again, as I was finally able to get down for a weekend race day. We ran the blown out track really wet to help tear the surface apart and fix some of the issues. This was all kinds of fun, though messy. :)
The AE car of another driver ended up with issues from throwing mud up inside his shell, but the rest of us ran quals and double mains that way. The T8 1900 and RX8 held up awesome, and came off cooler, despite the wheels being 3x their normal weight after we were done, as compared to the same track with lots of traction (normally hard pack and can run slicks with good results). The reason I'm posting is that I still would like to know about the differences in feel of the Gen2 and the Gen1 that I posted setups for as Randy requested. The Gen2 just seems more "squishy", though after a ton of battery packs I'm starting to adopt to it so I can finally be reasonably consistent with it again. Randy, here's the post with details, apologies if I missed your response: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post12570532 |
Originally Posted by justpoet
(Post 12673394)
The reason I'm posting is that I still would like to know about the differences in feel of the Gen2 and the Gen1 that I posted setups for as Randy requested. The Gen2 just seems more "squishy", though after a ton of battery packs I'm starting to adopt to it so I can finally be reasonably consistent with it again.
Randy, here's the post with details, apologies if I missed your response: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post12570532 Gen2 RX8 w/ T8 1900 running 238 software: 13.5v cutoff, bl-dlMT1, turn reverse off ;) no drag, 50% brake, no push, brake min 0 25 neutral width, Go to 5 no current limit, 35% reverse, throt min 0 Go 3-5 here C2, 5 timing, 18471-20016 rpmDefault 5k start, 20k end linear curve (3) Make the changes in red. Also where are you geared? |
i don't run fans on my gen2's and always wonder about the dirt that gets into the esc via the open fan plug port. is this something i should be worried about or continue to run as is?
thanks |
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 12674516)
i don't run fans on my gen2's and always wonder about the dirt that gets into the esc via the open fan plug port. is this something i should be worried about or continue to run as is?
thanks |
second race with my Gen2, TQ and win...love this speedo, very smooth, motor has a lot of power but coming from Nitro you dont feel it. I have Gen2 with 2050, in a RC8.2e. Very easy to drive and push hard.
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Originally Posted by RiceP
(Post 12674804)
I run a aftermarket fan that plugs in to my rx and I leave the hotwire adapter pluged into the Esc zip tied to the motor wires. This keeps trash out of Esc and also makes pluging hotwire in easy. FYI it's the muchmore fan same size as tekin.
fortunately for me my escs dont get hot enough to need a fan so i dont even bother with the extra wiring. |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 12673742)
So here are your settings right?
Gen2 RX8 w/ T8 1900 running 238 software: 13.5v cutoff, bl-dlMT1, turn reverse off ;) no drag, 50% brake, no push, brake min 0 25 neutral width, Go to 5 no current limit, 35% reverse, throt min 0 Go 3-5 here C2, 5 timing, 18471-20016 rpmDefault 5k start, 20k end linear curve (3) Make the changes in red. Also where are you geared? Each is in a Tekno EB48 with an 18t pinion, using the same SMC 6500 4s pack. The one difference that jumps out to me is the RPM for timing stuff. Both were set up by hitting the calc rpm button while connected to their respective t8 1900 motors and choosing the top rpm available so it would only be active at the top rpm range, but the numbers are quite different. I like the reverse for practice days, will that actually change forward performance to have the delayed reverse available? Again, you can see in the linked post that the settings on the 2 ESCs are just about identical. I'll give the settings a shot next time I'm there running eBuggy again, hopefully next weekend. |
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