My ESC is still doing the same where it just shuts off. Not sure what else to try. New battery, new wires, fan, smaller pinion etc. Before I was able to run the 10min amain with no issues. Now, I am lucky if I go over 5min. Waiting on Tekin support to get back to me, but I already know they do take a long time to get back, which sucks.

Where are you trying to contact us at that is taking a long time to get back to you?

It all starts with the basic questions to narrow down the possibilities.

When shuts off does it recover at some point?
Can you get to it and see what the leds are doing? If we know what the leds are doing it tells us a lot for diagnostics.
If it does not recover on its own does cycling the switch make it turn back on?
Do you have steering while it it is shutoff?
Clear the data logs before your run so we can look and see if there is anything interesting. The logs only hold about 6 or 7min so to get a full 10min run you need to turn something off like motor temp.

You need to reconnect a working sensor wire, without the sensor wire the RX8 works as a sensorless esc and will exhibit cogging. After reconnecting a good sensor wire if there is still a problem you may have caused damage to the motor's sensor board.

After I got my first motor combo with sensor I'm NEVER buying or using a sensorless combo again.
I just LOVE how smooth a start one can do with a sensored system. I hate how sensorless systems are prone to cogging at low rpm.

I have a question for you all. I just soldered all new wire onto my ESC, and decided to put heat shrink tubing over the wires and posts for extra protection. After doing so however, I started to wonder if the heat shrink tubing would act as thermal insulation on the posts. If this is the case I feel that the posts would flow more heat to the board potentially burning it up. I admittedly never paid much attention to how hot the posts get throughout a run, so maybe this isn't a problem at all. Anyone have any experience with heat shrinking the posts?

Without knowing for sure, my own personal theory is that the posts will never get hot when running the ESC.
It's the various components inside the ESC that will become hot and that's why there's a heatsink and a fan to battle the buildup of heat inside the ESC.

So I doubt you have anything to worry about, putting shrink tubing on the soldering posts is a good thing, it will prevent any mishaps where something bridges between the exposed posts and a short circuit happening.
I'm a big fan of shrink tubing and anything that will help protect soldering posts and plugs from having any exposed areas that can create problems.

But this is just MY personal opinion.

On the RS and RS pro, the soldering posts act as the heatsink so it is best not to. Since the RX8 has an actual heatsink, adding heat shrink will have a negligible effect on cooling. However, I've seen people have issues because the solder joint between the post and the wire failed. They couldn't see the problem and it caused some issues.

I dealt with one person who had a motor short out and it actually melted the solder joints on the posts of the esc as well. They soldered up a new motor without checking the joints at the esc only to have issues with cogging and esc overheating because of poorly fused solder joints under the heatshrink that had formed after the original solder joint melted and resolidified. If they didn't have heatshrink on it, the wire would have been loose in the chassis. That could have caused more damage as well, so it's hard to say what was better in that case. I think no connection is better than a poor connection as the ESC should have identified the missing wire and gone into 'wrong motor type' mode.

Personally, I have never used heatshrink on any Tekin ESC in 10 years and haven't had any issues.

area and heat transfer....
the little area of the heat shrink has near zero affect...
the heat will travel along the wire if needed for more cooling... all the way to the battery if the ISSUE is that bad.
my opinion.. electric rc racing since 1991. most scales, most types.

Tekin Prez I have a RX8 G2 that will run for a few minutes then no throttle, and flash LED 4,5 for a few seconds. Then right back to going again. I can not find this in the trouble codes anywhere. I am going to resolder all the connections this evening. So far I have found nothing wrong.

Thanks!

Leds 3 & 4 is a reset code we do not see very often. Means either an internal component is failing in Rx8 9(likely in BEC), or there could be an external load on the BEC from a bad servo or an exposed wire shorting to something. Sounds like something is getting hot and then cooling back off when you stop. After it does it the first time does it happen faster the second time?

It gets progressively shorter. I was thinking something is occurring, component or connection heating becoming a high resistance connection or component failing. Load is gone, cools off, back to it again. This ESC has only ever been used in a SCT on 2S. I have never seen it above 140 degrees. The speed control was happy as can be until I replaced the fan. ( Old fan was sounding pretty crappy)

You know I put a new servo in earlier in the day. Hmmm. Wonder if the servo is pulling the buss voltage down to the point where the ESC is current limiting the buss and shutting it down and resetting. I'm pretty sure the BEC is at 6.0

There is a new MKS550 in there. While it can run at 6.0vdc I should have changed to 7.4vdc to lower the current. What is the maximum power the BEC can supply?

I need to do some looking at that.

I searched and came up dry. But I was curious as to the repair cost of an RX8 with 1&2 - 6&7 blinking. And is it even repairable or do you just buy a new one?