Thank you :) how do I go about initiating this?

It's easy, just fill out the RA form and in the comments ask for a trade in. I traded one in few weeks ago and was easy and quick.

That's awesome you guys offer that, I would much rather upgrade. Is the trade in a flat rate or does it depend on the condition?

$123 (plus shipping) is the most you will ever have to pay to send in a broken RX8 from any generation and receive back a fully functioning Gen3.

Thank you all! I'm going to be doing the upgrade. I might finally feel comfortable soldering 10ga on the Gen3 ESC. Might finally resolve my minor heat issues in my SuperLight too :).

I did a R/A form back in Feb for my Gen 2 but haven't got my act together & sent it in yet.... do I need to resubmit the R/A form to get the upgrade or can I just scribble on the printout of the original R/A form??

NO that should still be valid.

Deleted sent you a pm Randy

Don't bother with 10ga wire. The 12 we give you is more than enough.

With the better solder posts I'll try 12ga again, thanks Randy. My only issue seemed to be the battery wires. Though maybe it was just a solder defect I couldn't see.

Anyone elses fan plug extremely loose on the new Gen 3 ? Im afraid its gonna bounce right out of the socket during a race

I have seen bad solder before.

12ga should be fine. I'm not a fan of the deans or "T" style battery connectors for 1/8 racing. Look at the EC5's or ProTek connectors that use the 4.5mm bullets inside.

Thanks for the response Randy :)

Out of those options, which one would you consider the easiest to disconnect by hand? My hands are substantially weakened right now so I've stuck with Deans mostly because I can still take them off lol

My other option would be to use 5mm bullets directly to the battery (2s Lipo for Superlight 2s rules).

Thanks!

I wouldn't use a battery that uses bullet connectors. I know some guys swear by it, but I think you're asking for problems!

I really like the XT90 connectors. Rated to 90amps, which is more than necessary for 1/8. They give a solid connection, they aren't difficult to take apart, although they have to fit fairly tight to give a secure electrical connection.

Buy the original "Amass" brand connectors, because the others may use a cheap thermoplastic that can melt when soldering!

Thank you for the tips :)

Have you ever used the Castle 6.5mm polarized connectors? If so, would you say it's substantially easier to disconnect than those xt90's? And much appreciated on the suggestion to get the originals. May get some of the Amass connectors and the Protek's to see what the difference is :)