Time to try out a Gen 3 7.5 then. :)

I might...

I find it interesting that you repeatedly like to point the finger at things like batteries etc, when a Trackstar 150A (rated LESS than an RX8) which costs a third the price, has three times the warranty, handles our GT "Nasty loads" just fine. I have seen more than one RX8 / RX8 Gen 2 fail at on road, as well as numerous IX8's, most people now run the Trackstar 150 or Xerun 150 as they have been the most reliable.

This finger pointing reminds me of Castle when their ESC's first started becoming unexplained fireballs (ie MMM and MMM V2, MMMXL, MMMXL V2 before they went to XL2) and it's disappointing.

Credit where it's due, the RS / RS Pro / RSX have been fine, the RX8 is fine in a 4wd SCT application, but in an application like 1/8 On Road which on paper should be fine, it fails, and fails badly. Most of us who race this class are very conscious of batteries, Internal Resistance is what I use, as soon as a packs resting IR is over 10moh a cell, it's out of there, your "Max Amps are often 5moh new, Trackstar Nanotech Ultimates are often under 3.

At the end of the day most people will judge a company on how they deal with issues regarding their products, do they look for something to blame or do they look after the consumer?

ESC stopped working
 

I am having trouble with my RX8 gen 2. I stopped my 1/8 buggy on the track to check my transmitter settings. When I pulled the trigger to go again---nothing. No lights, no tones or fan. I thought it was the old power switch so I shorted it out, no luck. If I hook up Hotwire to the fan connector I can link with hotwire. Otherwise the ESC is dead.
I cannot get the ESC to respond when I hook up to the receiver lead. Is that normal?
Anyone have any ideas?

You better not be using Hobbyking batteries or it'll be that!

Seriously though try a different battery or plug it could be as simple as a cold solder joint

:batman:

I tried a couple different batteries.
I checked that there is voltage (15.6 VDC) at the ESC.
Do you know if the receiver lead on the ESC can be used to connect to Hotwire? It doesn't work on my ESC so I am thinking maybe a wire got pinched between the ESC and receiver. Not sure if that would cause this kind of symptom though

It should be my rsx I can use the receiver wire.

From your prior post and this one here's a few things to note.
1) You should be able to connect both from the fan and from the rx cable.
2) If you have power to the ESC it should go into the arming mode when it first gets that power (assuming switch is on or shorted as you mentioned).
3) A short in the control wire could cause it to not arm, as it won't arm until it senses neutral.
4) This all happened after you changed settings on your radio.

Some questions:
1) What setting(s) did you change on the radio?
2) Did you slow to a stop, or crash to a stop, when you decided to change settings?
3) Does your rx light up and get power while this is happening?
4) Can you turn the wheels with the steering servo while a battery is powering everything?

Since you can connect the hotwire, tell the hotwire to update the firmware on the ESC. This will wipe everything in there and reset to factory everything in case something somehow got corrupted or one of your settings is no longer the setting you need (for example, if neutral width is now smaller than your radio system needs).

Justpoet,

Thanks for the reply. The ESC doesn't not start the arming process. There is no sign of life. That is why I first thought it was the power switch.
I opened up the case and the wires all look fine, and I could not see any damage at all.
1. I was only starting the count down timer on the radio. Not much of a change.
2. just coasted to a stop so I could simulate a 4 min qualifier. I had only done 2 warm up laps so It was not overheating.
3. & 4.No output from the BEC.
I did an update to V 254 from 250 and it said that the update was successful.

The only thing I noted was that the fan connector can be used to link with Hotwire but the receiver connector will not.

Oh one more thing the #1 led lights when it is Hotwire connected via the fan port.
No lights or connection using the receiver wire.

I did a continuity check on the receiver lead and that is OK. Looks like there is no simple fix. I am not sure if I should send this in to get repaired or just buy a new Monster X. The X has a lot of usable features like all the leads come out the top, the servo, power switch and fan are on a harness so it is easy to repair a pinched lead, sensored/non-sensored control, 6.5 mm bullet connectors to the motor, aux channel that can be used for anything but I like to use it for enabling/disabling reverse for practice/racing ...
I wish Tekin would make this decision easier by adding some value to their side of the equation.

If you haven't already, include all of the above info that we've discussed in an e-mail to Tekin's customer support and they'll tell you what's likely to happen with an RMA request. Their customer support is great when it is needed (though I've only ever had to help others use it). Generally it is worth sending in.

Thanks justpoet. I will d that now.

254 softwar
 

Updated RX8 Gen2 to 254 software. Using M12 radio. All of a sudden my neutral is too low (1,2 & 3 LEDS). I can't calibrate esc. Anybody else experienced this? Never had a problem before.

I'm not pointing fingers, I'm sharing the info we've collected while working with others to alleviate their issues. Like it or not, acknowledge it or not batteries are a huge part of the equation when it comes to the power system of the car.

While internal resistance can be a factor, the ability of the pack to deliver the power is what we're looking at.

Send me a data log, let's take a look at your setup and see what's going on.