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-   -   Official Tekin RX8 GEN2 ESC Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/726576-official-tekin-rx8-gen2-esc-thread.html)

Randy_Pike 06-03-2014 07:58 AM

@ Stubs Don't get me wrong Ryan likes an aggressive car. So the fact he's turning things down should speak volumes.

190f on a full run at race pace is fine. I don't sweat it until I'm seeing 200's. Air flow does help but making sure your gearing is setup for the track is the most critical setup.

You essentially don't want the car topping out on the longest straight for more than a second or so...

freebird 06-03-2014 08:03 AM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 13309082)
@ Stubs Don't get me wrong Ryan likes an aggressive car. So the fact he's turning things down should speak volumes.

190f on a full run at race pace is fine. I don't sweat it until I'm seeing 200's. Air flow does help but making sure your gearing is setup for the track is the most critical setup.

You essentially don't want the car topping out on the longest straight for more than a second or so...

Temps like these; are they taken through the esc run info or taken with an IR gun at the motor can?

Stubbs 06-03-2014 10:10 AM


Originally Posted by freebird (Post 13309092)
Temps like these; are they taken through the esc run info or taken with an IR gun at the motor can?

Exergen DX501 temp gun.

Motor - I usually check the outside of the can near the front, rear, and middle (mainly to see if there's a hot spot).

ESC - I point the sensor at the side of the heat sink, just below the fan.

Stubbs 06-03-2014 10:12 AM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 13309082)
@ Stubs Don't get me wrong Ryan likes an aggressive car. So the fact he's turning things down should speak volumes.

190f on a full run at race pace is fine. I don't sweat it until I'm seeing 200's. Air flow does help but making sure your gearing is setup for the track is the most critical setup.

You essentially don't want the car topping out on the longest straight for more than a second or so...

10-4.....I'll continue to check it after I run, but I won't worry about it too much.

OSR 06-03-2014 10:37 AM

please help
 
my gen2 will not find the brakes during initial calibration. thought maybe it was defective so i tried my gen 1 as well....same thing...no brakes. messed with trims,servo reversing,different receiver, still no brakes. radio is 4pk...1900 motor...don't know what to try next. thanks, McGhee

Randy_Pike 06-03-2014 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by OSR (Post 13309419)
my gen2 will not find the brakes during initial calibration. thought maybe it was defective so i tried my gen 1 as well....same thing...no brakes. messed with trims,servo reversing,different receiver, still no brakes. radio is 4pk...1900 motor...don't know what to try next. thanks, McGhee

Ok, on the 4pk you will need your throttle channel reversed. For now set your epa's to 100/100. Also make sure your brake strength on the radio is set to 100%. If you have throttle dual rate,make sure it too is 100%.

Go into your BLS menu and turn BLS off on channel 2. If you're racing go into the same throttle menu and make sure your throttle ratio is set to 70/30,not 50/50.

Retry the calibration. IF it fails, use your steering channel (#1) and attempt it there using the wheel. If it cals there, something is wrong on your radio/tx on Ch2...it's not the esc.

imrob 06-03-2014 04:47 PM

after update
 
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.

OSR 06-03-2014 04:55 PM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 13309460)
Ok, on the 4pk you will need your throttle channel reversed. For now set your epa's to 100/100. Also make sure your brake strength on the radio is set to 100%. If you have throttle dual rate,make sure it too is 100%.

Go into your BLS menu and turn BLS off on channel 2. If you're racing go into the same throttle menu and make sure your throttle ratio is set to 70/30,not 50/50.

Retry the calibration. IF it fails, use your steering channel (#1) and attempt it there using the wheel. If it cals there, something is wrong on your radio/tx on Ch2...it's not the esc.

thanks. Had the dual rate thumb wheel moved too low

TRADLER 06-03-2014 05:04 PM


Originally Posted by imrob (Post 13310169)
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.

Yes that is normal.

fq06 06-03-2014 05:07 PM


Originally Posted by imrob (Post 13310169)
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.

Calibration will not change settings, update and hard reset will put it back to default settings.

Randy_Pike 06-03-2014 07:29 PM


Originally Posted by imrob (Post 13310169)
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.

After a software update, yes it's normal.

You DO NOT have to that just after a radio calibration though, nor do you have to if you make an "Adjustment" with the HW. Only after a software update.

Randy_Pike 06-03-2014 07:30 PM


Originally Posted by freebird (Post 13309092)
Temps like these; are they taken through the esc run info or taken with an IR gun at the motor can?

I generally talk external can temps since that's what the majority of people still do...

That being said 190f on the can may show 210 on the data logger. This is for Tekin motors.

imrob 06-04-2014 03:31 AM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 13310643)
After a software update, yes it's normal.

You DO NOT have to that just after a radio calibration though, nor do you have to if you make an "Adjustment" with the HW. Only after a software update.

Ok thanks guys

RoketRdr 06-04-2014 06:21 AM

For guys that are getting hot (190*+) install a Castle Creations fan. They're cheap and work well. My T8 1900kv geared @ 46/20 would reach 190* after 10 minute runs. Installing the fan dropped my temps down to 165-170*. Your rotor will love you. ;)

RKK_J 06-05-2014 12:05 AM

You must be careful when running fans on an off-road car. It is good practise to check the temperatures without the fan (not higher than 190) and then install a fan. You could have a problem if the fan fails in the middle of a 10-15 minute race and you don't know about it.
Fans on an off-road car are under a lot of stress because of jumps, bumps, stones ...


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