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@ Stubs Don't get me wrong Ryan likes an aggressive car. So the fact he's turning things down should speak volumes.
190f on a full run at race pace is fine. I don't sweat it until I'm seeing 200's. Air flow does help but making sure your gearing is setup for the track is the most critical setup. You essentially don't want the car topping out on the longest straight for more than a second or so... |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 13309082)
@ Stubs Don't get me wrong Ryan likes an aggressive car. So the fact he's turning things down should speak volumes.
190f on a full run at race pace is fine. I don't sweat it until I'm seeing 200's. Air flow does help but making sure your gearing is setup for the track is the most critical setup. You essentially don't want the car topping out on the longest straight for more than a second or so... |
Originally Posted by freebird
(Post 13309092)
Temps like these; are they taken through the esc run info or taken with an IR gun at the motor can?
Motor - I usually check the outside of the can near the front, rear, and middle (mainly to see if there's a hot spot). ESC - I point the sensor at the side of the heat sink, just below the fan. |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 13309082)
@ Stubs Don't get me wrong Ryan likes an aggressive car. So the fact he's turning things down should speak volumes.
190f on a full run at race pace is fine. I don't sweat it until I'm seeing 200's. Air flow does help but making sure your gearing is setup for the track is the most critical setup. You essentially don't want the car topping out on the longest straight for more than a second or so... |
please help
my gen2 will not find the brakes during initial calibration. thought maybe it was defective so i tried my gen 1 as well....same thing...no brakes. messed with trims,servo reversing,different receiver, still no brakes. radio is 4pk...1900 motor...don't know what to try next. thanks, McGhee
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Originally Posted by OSR
(Post 13309419)
my gen2 will not find the brakes during initial calibration. thought maybe it was defective so i tried my gen 1 as well....same thing...no brakes. messed with trims,servo reversing,different receiver, still no brakes. radio is 4pk...1900 motor...don't know what to try next. thanks, McGhee
Go into your BLS menu and turn BLS off on channel 2. If you're racing go into the same throttle menu and make sure your throttle ratio is set to 70/30,not 50/50. Retry the calibration. IF it fails, use your steering channel (#1) and attempt it there using the wheel. If it cals there, something is wrong on your radio/tx on Ch2...it's not the esc. |
after update
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 13309460)
Ok, on the 4pk you will need your throttle channel reversed. For now set your epa's to 100/100. Also make sure your brake strength on the radio is set to 100%. If you have throttle dual rate,make sure it too is 100%.
Go into your BLS menu and turn BLS off on channel 2. If you're racing go into the same throttle menu and make sure your throttle ratio is set to 70/30,not 50/50. Retry the calibration. IF it fails, use your steering channel (#1) and attempt it there using the wheel. If it cals there, something is wrong on your radio/tx on Ch2...it's not the esc. |
Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 13310169)
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.
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Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 13310169)
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.
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Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 13310169)
Is it normal to have to go back into the esc to change all my stuff back to 4s and reverse the motor direction after calibration. This is what I had to do after up dating the esc to the 250 software.
You DO NOT have to that just after a radio calibration though, nor do you have to if you make an "Adjustment" with the HW. Only after a software update. |
Originally Posted by freebird
(Post 13309092)
Temps like these; are they taken through the esc run info or taken with an IR gun at the motor can?
That being said 190f on the can may show 210 on the data logger. This is for Tekin motors. |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 13310643)
After a software update, yes it's normal.
You DO NOT have to that just after a radio calibration though, nor do you have to if you make an "Adjustment" with the HW. Only after a software update. |
For guys that are getting hot (190*+) install a Castle Creations fan. They're cheap and work well. My T8 1900kv geared @ 46/20 would reach 190* after 10 minute runs. Installing the fan dropped my temps down to 165-170*. Your rotor will love you. ;)
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You must be careful when running fans on an off-road car. It is good practise to check the temperatures without the fan (not higher than 190) and then install a fan. You could have a problem if the fan fails in the middle of a 10-15 minute race and you don't know about it.
Fans on an off-road car are under a lot of stress because of jumps, bumps, stones ... |
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