I have a RX8 Gen 2 with the lipo cutoff set for a 4 cell. My old RX8's would hit the cutoff slowing the car down from any speed. With the Gen2 once it hits cutoff the car still has steering, but if your wide open it free wheels without slowing the car down at all. Anything I might have over looked with the new unit?

There's a "hard hit" and a "soft hit" on LVC. If you're hitting the LVC hard enough the unit will not give you power until voltage comes back up a bit.

Soft hits can be felt while on the track driving the car. If you feel these, it's time to pull the car off.

I wasnt really sure which thread to post this so I will post it here and see what responses I get. I posted it in the SCT410 thread but didnt get much feedback. Thanks in advance!

Alright so I am going to start a SCT410 build soon after Christmas passes and I have been going back and forth between what motor I want to run. I know that it is going to be a Tekin motor paired with the RX8 Gen2 but I don't know what motor to go with along with what voltage.

So where I live we dont have any actual tracks except one that is trying to get going but for some reason they are having a lot of difficulty with the property owner and finding an insurance that will make the owner happy. So anyways I am not racing competitively really just having fun track running with friends on our own track and hopefully if the new track ever does open I will be just practicing.

So I know that I want to run a higher voltage set up so that I dont have to worry about tearing through two cell lipos and I want to efficiency of a higher voltage set up. Not looking to gear it to the moon just wanting to gear it like a 2s set up but have the efficiency and cooler temps that the higher voltage set up.

So (I know a lot of "so's") my question to you guys is...

Should I run a 3S set up or go for a 4S set up? And depending on what battery set up I go with what motor should I go with?

I am thinking for 4S I would run this set up:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-2650kV

For 3S I would run this set up:

Tekin RX8 Gen2 with this motor

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Shaft-3000kV

Or should I run 4S with this motor?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Shaft-2500kV

For 4S batteries I would run 5000 mah 25C batteries
For 3S batteries I would run 5800 mah 25C batteries

What are your thoughts? Any help is much appreciated!

Thanks guys! I was talking about ESC fans. I will get them on asap..

For 4s I would suggest going with either the Pro 4 1900KV motor or the Pro 4 HD 1850

For 3s setup the Pro 4 HD 2500 or 3000 kv motors.


As for the lipos, we recommend at least 35c rating.

Both will be just fine. The higher voltage will draw less amps and in general is a good idea. However if you EVER choose to go racing you'd have to buy a new motor(kv will be wrong) and new batteries. Just keep that in mind.

That being said 3s or 4s. Whichever suits you.

I'd prefer to see much higher c rated batteries though ,40c or higher.

I understand that for racing I would have to get new batteries and new motor if I ever plan to race. And I have no issues with that this is just how I want to set it up for now because I want to run an efficient set up and not worry about over stressing 2S batteries.

With that being said I am definitely leaning towards the 4s battery side of things so I would be going with the Pro 4 HD 1850. Since you guys said to go at least 35-40c is there a battery mah amount that you could also recommend that would be a good starting point for batteries? I did see that you didnt recommend any of the 1/8th motors to be paired together. Is that because I am putting this set up into a short course truck? I really dont mind whether it is the PRO 4 HD or one of the T8 motors just curious.

And my last question for you guys is if you guys think I would have any weighting problems with my truck do to the heavier 4S batteries?

Thanks for the help!

If you are going 3s-4s you can go to 8th scale motors but they are bigger and heavier. A 550 or 4 pole 540 motor on 3s will be more power then you can get to the ground. A lot of the 2S setups are more then most can lay down on a track. It is a lot of fun but can be hard to control.

obvously more mah is better for more runtime. on 2S I would try go get in the uppper 5000mah + (I run the venom 5800mah 70C 2S) and get around 11-12 min on a battery on the track. 3S-4S you can get away with lower mah as you are using voltage for power instead of amperage so the system is a little more efficient.

Any feedback from team drivers on how the app is working out so far?

is this normal for a tekin? guys at the track pretty much said it is. seems like it got broken in a landing or something. not sure exactly but everyone said they're too fragile and always burn up. this is the 2nd one I seen in 2 weeks.
everyone has jumped ship to hobbywing sct pro's.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/1...3a45cd54_b.jpg

I have 3 Rc's with the gen2 rx8 and while I have heard of this I have never had it happen to me. I have one in a emaxx that I launch off ramps and don't always land right side up and have never had it burn up. Also run in my scte and a d8 tekno and never seen one burn up. I have run tekin for the last 5 years never burned one up so I am going to say it's not common. But not impossible I have seen many different brands burn up some are oppreator era and some are just a really crazy situation that accrued my buddy hit a copping one day and the seam went under body and ripped out the wires and posts on his Esc just a fluke thing.

the funny thing is these guys are regulars at the tracks and they all use hobby wing esc's and got rid of their high dollar esc's.

I think i'm going to just go with a viper vtx8 since it's alum and all the hobby wing's are sold out. (wonder why)

anyone need a hotwire? pm me.

Sent you a PM.

So you see the battery post/red wire hanging off? Chances are either his battery ejected or the post pulled out. Another thought is the battery leads look awfully short and again pulled on the post and yanked. Careful mounting of the esc and wire placement are required. Wires that are too short and do not allow for things such as chassis flex, battery shift, etc can cause this. Clearly the case/esc was mounted well to the chassis as it's still hanging on.

Of course this is NOT normal.

Quote from a team driver " this is bad ass! lol" no joke.