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If you do need the PC interface its still here - I had (still have) the LED card and it worked fine to connect to the computer but I dont recall every doing it other then maybe a firmware update.... to answer some of your questions
1 - are you investing in a sinking ship - no because the ship already sunk! But if its a good price its not a big deal. 2 - reliability - I used a reventon R for many years...never once had a problem and sold it used working perfectly. I was generally very happy with the reliability and the features.... 3 - Voltage - yeah 2S should be the max - they were geared around racing for the most part so 2S was an acceptable limit for the markey that was buying them. As a basher if your trying to do larger batteries for speed runs or monster trucks its not a good fit. Still think as a budget racing speedo its perfectly fine.... https://web.archive.org/web/20150219...n/download.asp |
Originally Posted by sacmiata
(Post 15911617)
If you do need the PC interface its still here - I had (still have) the LED card and it worked fine to connect to the computer but I dont recall every doing it other then maybe a firmware update.... to answer some of your questions
1 - are you investing in a sinking ship - no because the ship already sunk! But if its a good price its not a big deal. 2 - reliability - I used a reventon R for many years...never once had a problem and sold it used working perfectly. I was generally very happy with the reliability and the features.... 3 - Voltage - yeah 2S should be the max - they were geared around racing for the most part so 2S was an acceptable limit for the markey that was buying them. As a basher if your trying to do larger batteries for speed runs or monster trucks its not a good fit. Still think as a budget racing speedo its perfectly fine.... https://web.archive.org/web/20150219...n/download.asp |
I've had one for many, many years. Ran it in a Tamiya M05, so not a very demanding application.
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Originally Posted by YourConfused
(Post 15911351)
Thank you for the PDF. Solara is sending me a program card but if I decide I want to run more than 1 of these ESC's I might get another program card for a spare, but I also feel like I am buying tickets on a sinking ship since the company is no more.
How has the reliability of these been? I am learning a lot about these and how much road cars differ from my trucks and buggies and all about boost and turbo timing. I am still waiting on my order to arrive, seems like it is lost at sea currently, so I don't know much about it other than it being the cheapest budget ESC SP made. Now that I realize the Speed Passion esc's can only run 2s, and I have a bunch of 3s, 4s & 5s batteries, I am second guessing my purchase actually. I guess the 2s batteries aren't super expensive but I also don't want to buy more batteries that need charged and stored etc. |
Originally Posted by theclutch
(Post 15911976)
I've raced it on multiple versions of my XB4 and other cars. I have it installed on 2 cars and 1 NIB as a spare. I also have the "higher priced" ESCs and can't tell the damn difference except for features that I will never ever use. As for my skill level, I'm 95% consistent (as per track laps) and no longer hit anything (knock on wood). I'm chasing 0.10's here and there and it's come down to car setup (including weight), battery and motor where I run 17.5 and 13.5 and they are honestly all very close to each other for the price points that I pay. With all else being equal, batteries make the biggest difference IMO. I've run top-of-the-line then 15 year old ESC's to prove a point at my local track that the new tech doesn't make a difference; i.e. - new electronics, although ladened with new features, didn't do anything for my lap times even though I'm already a super consistent driver.
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Originally Posted by YourConfused
(Post 15911742)
One more question, would you say that a motor on 2s with turbo and boost would be faster than the same motor on 3s with stock timing? I have never played with any turbo/boost stuff so I am not sure how much faster it can be without overheating everything. Thanks again!
Generally the same motor on 3S with a fixed stock timing will out run a 2S equivalent setup even with boost/turbo to support that motor. |
Originally Posted by YourConfused
(Post 15912108)
Thanks for that bit of info. I don't have experience with any high end esc's but some of the cheaper stuff I have used isn't that great feature and control wise, but I have a Racerstar brand (which seems like a rebranded Hobbywing or Hobbystar 150a) esc that I have been really impressed with. My order arrived at customs and was released yesterday so I should get to see my new toys later this week. I don't race, might in the future though, so like you a lot of those fancy features won't be utilized by me. I typically play with everything once, but once I get my settings where I want them I usually leave them alone, since my driving requires more work than getting the timing nailed on the esc. What batteries do you find to be a good value for your setup? I am putting this Speed Passion motor/esc into a 3racing S64 and planned to use the 3s batteries from my Mini 8ight at first, maybe the 3s from the Lasernut will fit, not sure at this point. Thanks for sharing your experience, it's definitely helpful to me.
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Originally Posted by sacmiata
(Post 15912126)
Good question - unfortunately like car engines there is no replacement for displacement (or in this case voltage!) The boost/turbo functions are nice because it lets you have a lower timing at lower RPM (more torque and cooler temps) and then as you pull the trigger and rev it out the timing changes to make more power (at the cost of higher temps). This way you get all the performance out of the motor. In "blinky" racing were you cant run boost/turbo your stuck with fixed timing so you have to compromise the timing you set on the motor to a number that gives you the best power without running to hot.....
Generally the same motor on 3S with a fixed stock timing will out run a 2S equivalent setup even with boost/turbo to support that motor. |
Originally Posted by alana07
(Post 15912288)
You should be aware that the 3racing S64 is designed to accept only a 2s stick pack lipo, either regular stick or shorty pack. The chassis can't accommodate a 3s pack though.
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Originally Posted by sacmiata
(Post 15911617)
If you do need the PC interface its still here - I had (still have) the LED card and it worked fine to connect to the computer but I dont recall every doing it other then maybe a firmware update.... to answer some of your questions
1 - are you investing in a sinking ship - no because the ship already sunk! But if its a good price its not a big deal. 2 - reliability - I used a reventon R for many years...never once had a problem and sold it used working perfectly. I was generally very happy with the reliability and the features.... 3 - Voltage - yeah 2S should be the max - they were geared around racing for the most part so 2S was an acceptable limit for the markey that was buying them. As a basher if your trying to do larger batteries for speed runs or monster trucks its not a good fit. Still think as a budget racing speedo its perfectly fine.... https://web.archive.org/web/20150219...n/download.asp They work just fine but do not have reverse battery protection. Connecting a battery incorrectly has been the most common failure for me. Highly suggest using a non-reversible plug to prevent those errors. |
ESC use? Yes
The ESC's worked great in both blinky and modiify (boost) forms. Program adjustments could be made with either program boxes or a computer interface. Swapping programs required the computer interface.
Yea! That's enough posts (90) that I can actually sell these old ESC's now. |
Originally Posted by sacmiata
(Post 15911617)
If you do need the PC interface its still here - I had (still have) the LED card and it worked fine to connect to the computer but I dont recall every doing it other then maybe a firmware update.... to answer some of your questions
1 - are you investing in a sinking ship - no because the ship already sunk! But if its a good price its not a big deal. 2 - reliability - I used a reventon R for many years...never once had a problem and sold it used working perfectly. I was generally very happy with the reliability and the features.... 3 - Voltage - yeah 2S should be the max - they were geared around racing for the most part so 2S was an acceptable limit for the markey that was buying them. As a basher if your trying to do larger batteries for speed runs or monster trucks its not a good fit. Still think as a budget racing speedo its perfectly fine.... https://web.archive.org/web/20150219...n/download.asp The subsequent pages had the various blinky and modify programs, perhaps they are available somewhere else |
Originally Posted by YourConfused
(Post 15912348)
I saw reference to 3 batteries in the thread on that car but no specifics on size. I did see people saying that target large batteries did fit, no shorty needed. Could you tell me what the max battery size is since i still haven't gotten mine delivered yet. Thanks
I also have the SP Reventon S 17.5t esc/motor combo from 3racing, works great for my usual 2wd buggy runs. |
Hey guys, I know this thread is very old but I just bought one of these esc's to put into my touring car, how do I program it? Is it possible to do it without a program card? or could I use a hobbywing one? thanks
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Originally Posted by NarrowEmpress1
(Post 16222804)
Hey guys, I know this thread is very old but I just bought one of these esc's to put into my touring car, how do I program it? Is it possible to do it without a program card? or could I use a hobbywing one? thanks
there is also a Windows program, like the castle one, for programming and monitoring data. |
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