The speedo came with a blue program box. That is the one i use correct?

i ran the stock1 program in my b5rm this past weekend and i noticed it didn't seem to have the amount of braking that i like. i've gone through the radio settings and they are correct. i'm going to try the mod 2 program for my next testing/practice session. hopefully it will give me the braking feel i'm looking for. will give feedback soon. i'm running a reventon pro btw with a tekin gen2 9.5

Re: Reventon Pro 1.1 - Thermo Shut
 

Greeting to Everyone,

First and foremost, my enquiry probably been discussed time and again. Unfortunately there are almost 400 pages on this thread and almost impossible for me to go 1 by 1 to search for help. To the Pros out there, please advise on my situation below:

ESC: Reventon Pro 1.1 (Brand new, first run - software for Offroad)
Motor: SP - 6.5T (Ratio 10.25)
Chasis: Kyosho Lazer zx6, running saddle pack setup
Others: Non turbo boost, esc temperature 78 degree celsius and motor 85 degree celsius. External track temperature 34 degree celsius

Experienced the ESC coming to a stop after 2 or max 3 minutes run time, according to the local experiece drivers i was having thermo shut due to esc overheating. Plug in the programming card where it ables to read ESC temperature, highest i have experienced yesterday was 78 degree celsius. Try putting in many ventilating holes on my body shell but it doesn't help, changed to a stronger Hobby Wing fan still the same. Did a bold test by running the car 1 full pack without bodyshell, absolutely no problem and esc recorded highest temperature was 40+ degree celsius.

Is there any setup that i can play with to solve my problem? Please advise...

Many thanks and appreciate.

Regards,
David Lim

What do you have the low voltage cutoff set to? That may be kicking in and stopping your car.

I have the same esc and I think I have it in blinky mode. However, it is double blinking and not single blinking, like other speed controls. Other than this it seems to be working right. Is this blinky mode? If I understand the manual correctly, the single blinking is low voltage.

thanks,
tim

Correct. Either LCD or LED will work.


David, as stated check your temp and low voltage cutoffs. I would just turn them off :)

Hi, in order to get some more track time and break up the 6 hour race day... I was thinking of running my B5M not only in 17.5 stock, but Mod also. I have a Reventon R with 17.5MMM motor, and if I take the esc out of blinks, and run mod profile, will I have to lower the pinion? I currently run 69 spur with 33pinion. Any ideas on where to start, and then checking temps to zone in?

it really depends on how much boost or timing you want to add to the ESC. the more you add the lower your pinion should probably be. But track size, grip level, etc will also influence temps so you really just need a few test runs.

Thanks, I decided to just keep running it in blinky for both classes. I do have a question though... I have the 17.5 mmm with the red timing board, run in middle. The board says +10 if all the way to the right. I am under the understanding, that the motor has 10* built in from the start, so running it all the way to the left would be 10* and all the way to the right would be max timing 20*? also, looking to experiment with the rotors for more mid throttle torque... will adding a 12.5mm red ring "silver edition" rotor, provide more torque? thanks again.

Anyone know if you can use a Tablet for updates? I can't carry a laptop around but I could use a small tablet. Does anyone do this?

Yes.

You can use an android tablet if you download the Reventon program from Google Play store and purchase the Speed Passion Bluetooth module.

You are correct about the timing board. The red board is an additional 10 degrees of timing so the 0 setting on the motor is now 10 and the 10 setting on the can will now be 20.

smaller rotors offer more top end and less torque. In offroad this is usally desirable. too much torque just spins the tires anyway. Ive always found that playing with the timing settings on both the motor and ESC will get the job done for finding more power at various parts of the power band. DRRS setting is also very effective at controlling the car and getting good power delivery. Try changing those settings a few times through a couple of packs and you should get a good feel for them. A couple of laps and then a quick change can tell you alot in about 20 minutes of practice.

Need some advice on how to get a v3 (non mmm) 5.5t motor fast.

was testing today on a tight indoor carpet track against a friend running a muchmore 5.5t motor, and a fleta pro esc.

im running a reventon 1.1 esc, and v3 5.5t motor.. my motor is alot slower than his muchmore combo, its fairly even on the end of the straight, but in the corners it feels more like a boosted 17.5.

i started gearing 8.9, didnt work so changed to 7.9. still too slow...
running stock firmware i turned on hybrid boost, lowest settings on all, rpm start on 8000rpm

feeling and speed was ok, still a big difference in punch, but very smooth and drivable.
problem is just that my esc keeps shutting down after 5.5min driving. (esc temp on outside was 54 celsius, motor 46 degrees)

is there a good setup on how to get the motor fast, and not get the esc to shut down?

Do I really need that capacitor on my reventon pro?? I run a cap plugged into my rx for my savox servo and just didn't want to be redundant since I run 17.5.

To me it sounds like the EPA might be off, I would almost reset your radio back to the 100% and neutral out the trim.

Set the timing to Maximum, punch should be moderate.

Check and make sure your voltage cut is Off or Low, and the same with overheat.

I've never had an issue with mine, I race carpet as well, and my car will Pull on other cars on the straight. I know that the radio settings can be wonky if not 0 from the start.


I presume this is Offroad (since you wrote this in the Offroad thread)



MOmo