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Old 02-25-2015, 09:35 AM
  #11626  
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I've had some issues getting some of mine to go into calibrate mode. One thing that has worked for me is to hold the power button until it beeps and shows calibrate. That timing seems odd and sometimes just holding it down for a long time works from off.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lpspeed2
Wildcat, I was trying to recalibrate it, hoping that would solve the issue, or at least remove another thing to try before sending it in, but the recalibration procedure is to (from the off position) press and hold the power button for about 3 seconds until it beeps and lights change... this never happens with mine.

If I power up the esc normally, it will do the power cycle noise and get me lights as if everything will work, but just no power is sent to the motor (have yet to verify with a voltage meter), but I did try with a different (working) motor and had the same result... nothing happening to the motor.

If I try to hold the power button from when it is off, or on, to change any setting or program the esc, or try to recalibrate, that is when it turns to a solid red light and will become frozen at that light until battery is removed.

Also, if I unplug the battery to power off the esc, unless it (the battery terminal) is off for more than 10 seconds, any attempt to power up the esc will go straight to a solid red light.
what radio? and make sure your throttle trims are at neutral and any throttle fail safes are off.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:41 AM
  #11628  
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Barge, I have held the button down for up to 30 seconds at a time to try and get anything out of the esc, but still nothing. Thanks for the help though.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:42 AM
  #11629  
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Wildcat, Im using a spektrum dx4s, throttle trims are neutral. What would I check for failsafes?
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:46 AM
  #11630  
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Originally Posted by lpspeed2
Wildcat, Im using a spektrum dx4s, throttle trims are neutral. What would I check for failsafes?
I dont know that radio well. I had the rtrottle fail safes turned on my MT4 and it caused issues for me. Is your radio on when you fresh boot the esc into calibration? I dont think it will go into calibration if the radio is off. check your sensor wire also. just and fyi
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:50 AM
  #11631  
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Originally Posted by lpspeed2
Wildcat, Im using a spektrum dx4s, throttle trims are neutral. What would I check for failsafes?
have you tried a new sensor wire? i know you mentioned you attempted a new motor.

Also, are you on the factory wires or did you change them? I know one thing nick always mentions is to reflow all soldered connections to make sure they are good.

one thing to remember as well is the esc will not turn off if it can not find neutral. maybe try a different netural width, and maybe a different processing speed from the radio.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:53 AM
  #11632  
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Did try new sensor wire, remote is always on before vehicle, Using factory orange wires that came with esc. The strange part is that it worked perfectly for several sessions (6 on track sessions) then went to solid red out of nowhere.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:54 AM
  #11633  
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I will get a few other sensor wires together and try more of them, just in case!
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:58 AM
  #11634  
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Originally Posted by lpspeed2
I will get a few other sensor wires together and try more of them, just in case!
ok, that is all I can think of. If none of that works, I would send it in.
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:41 AM
  #11635  
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Originally Posted by Neverstop
Need some tech help having some issue I can not figure out. Vtx8 with Tekin pro4 hd truck runs great for a whole heat then next heat on a landing truck will stop esc will flash red and yellow alternating lights. Have swapped batteries, sensor wires, battirie plugs. Motor connections are good can not see any damage to wires what should I check next motor sensor board? Somthing inside the esc getting loose? Yesterday's A main it did it on warmup lap restarted the esc and made it four laps until it happened again. Always happens when landing a jump.
If you are seeing the F and R light alternating its a high amp spike warning, the speed control is shutting down to protect itself. The amp spike is coming from either the motor (internally), motor sensor, or connection issue (with either motor or battery). The speed control is trying to protect itself from being damaged from the amp spike.

Things to try would include - different motor, resolder all connections (including any plugs), replace plugs (either on esc or battery side - maybe both). The fault is not within the speed control. Its trying to keep an outside source from damaging the unit.

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Old 02-25-2015, 11:46 AM
  #11636  
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Originally Posted by lpspeed2
I have a vtx10-r that I purchased brand new form LHS and I ran it 1 race night, I ran it in the "blinky" mode and it ran pretty well. It is in an AE b44.3 with a 6.5T reds motor at 0* timing advance. I took temps after every run and never exceeded 115*. After the racing, I asked a local fast guy at the track to take the buggy for a spin and help me with setup suggestions. He took it for 1 lap and pulled the buggy over to adjust the travel in my remote, after that the buggy has had no more drive at all. We reset the travel back to where it was and still nothing.

When i power the esc it will turn on with normal lights, but has no forward or reverse action. My steering works, so I know its not a dead receiver, but just in case, I tried with a spare receiver and it did the same exact thing. It has steering, but no esc action.

If I try to go into programing mode, it will get a solid red light that will never go away. At that point anything I do to the esc will not work. It will not even shut off, unless I pull the battery. I try by pressing the power button for several seconds and wait for the beeping, but it never happens and never changes lights.

I found this video on yt ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7Z_-G74ORo )and it is doing the same thing as mine, where it gets stuck on this red light and then is unresponsive to any other presses.

Has anyone else had this issue at all ? It is a practically new esc, so I have no idea what may have happened. Any help at all would be much appreciated!

I tried looking up this issue but have come up short on my searching, and I am sorry, but I'm not about to read 700+ pages of this thread to see if I can find the same issue on here, so I apologize if this has been addressed before, but maybe someone can help or point me in the right direction...
Sorry to hear you are having an issue - things I would try would be to see if you disconnect the motor from the speed control - does it power up and respond to any throttle inputs (lights on VPort/switch), if it does not - as suggested go ahead and send it in. If you are ever going to truly find a mfg defect from electronics - its going to happen in first uses. After you have used the products for months and months, a problem not defective a very high percent of the time. PM me if you have any other questions.
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Old 02-25-2015, 12:35 PM
  #11637  
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Thanks Nick, I will try that and let you know what happens and we will then decide the next steps.
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Old 02-25-2015, 02:24 PM
  #11638  
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
If you are seeing the F and R light alternating its a high amp spike warning, the speed control is shutting down to protect itself. The amp spike is coming from either the motor (internally), motor sensor, or connection issue (with either motor or battery). The speed control is trying to protect itself from being damaged from the amp spike.

Things to try would include - different motor, resolder all connections (including any plugs), replace plugs (either on esc or battery side - maybe both). The fault is not within the speed control. Its trying to keep an outside source from damaging the unit.

Nick/Viper
I chased these same problems all last season. not sure what else to replace everything is new. same issue with same setup. vtx8 with a pro4 4300. i get alternating f and r about 5 mins in. i picked up a viper motor and hoping it finally solves it..if not the only other thing i haven't swapped out is the rx..
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Old 02-25-2015, 02:47 PM
  #11639  
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On my VTX8 it did the very same thing and i checked everything ended up dropping the battery cut off down to 3.0 problem solved, our races are 6 mins max and i don't practice more then that so i don't get my amps to low on the battery, i don't know why it was happening but after 4 or so mins the esc is getting a spike from the battery this even happens with a new battery for some reason and lowering to 3.0 fixed it.
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Old 02-25-2015, 02:53 PM
  #11640  
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O by the way my new viper 4.40 4000 rocks....
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