Has anyone tried a 12.8 rotor in the 17.5? I run on a high bite carpet off-road track and was thinking of trying it. I run a non-boosted set up currently.

Yes. I have run the 12.8 rotor. It will not be legal for a stock 17.5 class. But if you can run it, turn the endbell timing 5 degrees past the last mark. This will really wake it up.

what is up with the first post?

I take it he isn't happy with the ones he has :tire:

I'd be curious to know what he isn't happy with exactly.

Former disgruntled employee. Nick needs to ask a Mod to have full control of this thread. The 1st poster has the ability to modify posts.

Thanks Jim, How would you gear that for a b5rm? I'm running a 69 spur and i'ts doing pretty good, just looking for a little more to keep the guys running 13.5 off me a little longer.

cweb - depending on your track size I have seen 30-34 with a 69 spur. I will also note that you can't compare a 13.5 to a 17.5. Its like a 4 cylinder racing a 6 cylinder - the bigger motor will always have an advantage if used properly.

Also note as Jim stated that 12.8 rotors are not considered ROAR legal, if your track follows those rules or even checks.

Cain and Panda - yes Jim mentioned to me that it appears he edited the first post again, its been like that since 2012 in one form or another. I have asked the mods to delete it by they said the person can post what he wants. I would say more... but lets leave it at that. I rather look at all the info in the thread make sure questions are answered.

okay no prob. Maybe a new thread is in order lol

Thanks nikos. I'm running 31-69 now with no boost and very low timing, like 16 deg. I still have a lot of room with the motor & esc to tune with, just looking for an option if needed. I understand about the 13.5's, and my track does allow boost on the 17.5 but not on the 13.5 so I am going to work on a boosted setup. just looking to try and level the playing field as much as I can, that and just put in clean laps.

Boosting a 17.5 can be tricky, start with low settings and work up if you need to. 17.5 motors run hot as it is, adding any boost or timing will increase those temperatures - which is why it gets tricky. If you do add any, start low, and test effects. also think that the more you add electronically, you may also need to change gear ratio (lower pinion) depending on what you add. If you feel you can't get the speed you need and you are at 20* for acceleration boost and or top end timing on the speedo, it start to show the blinky 13.5 option would be better.

Nah, I think I got it cleaned up(though the thread title is now noticably shorter)....:cool:

if you incorrectly wire an esc to a motor (connect A to C, etc) what would you see happen (motor doesn't run, quickly gets hot, etc)

Trying to help someone diagnose something from a distance.

Anyone looking to buy any viper items soon? I won a $35 gift certificate that I will never use. It's yours. I don't want anything for it. You do have to spend $100 for it to be activated though. If it's wanted pm me and it's yours

Gift certificate gone.

Sensored - it might make a click sound, stall, not turn, yes could get hot quickly. Basically its creating short in the system.

Sensorless - if, A and C were exchanged, it would run backward. If A and B or B and C exchanged, it make not run, or run at a stutter. Could get hot depending on design.