nico33

Hi to all,

I would like to have some tips for choosing my next mail:

I currently owns a durango 210 (4X2) with VTX10 combos + VST8.5T for 2 years is I am really very happy.
I just purchased a YOKOMO a B-III MAX4 to try a little 4X4, is I want to start on a Viper rc combos for the latter, but better worth a controller or VTX10 VTX10R?
as I wish to make an engine VST6.5T, but I have little for a 4X4 its heated more than 210
What do you think, thank you for your advice at all.
Thank Nico from France

samuelsonmark71

iTrader: (22)

I have run a larger motor before (Castle 2650) and it is entirely too much power. I currently run the VTX8 and VF8.19 (1900) with no issues dusting any of the nitros that we run with. I am geared at 17/46 in my Mugen MBX7 Eco.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah, I am thinking the same as I remember the issue with the voltage cutoff before but had a brain fart and programmed it like my SP units. I put that part back and believe that and a combo of motor measurement was the issue. I went ahead and disabled temp protection. I may play with it more in practice but for 4x4 sct may just leave it off as I check it regularly on the can.

Thanks though for the pm! For brake settings I'll send and confirm but its most likely whatever is stock to the profile as I just used those profiles in the book.

Where are you topping out down the longest straight?

Reason I ask that is are you under geared? in general depending on the vehicles I have in the past used gearing in the 20T pinion sizes on 200 ft straightway tracks, running with nitros. The motors from what I have in seen 1/8 scale can pull the gearing. If however you are undergeared, you can help up the motor quick that way too.


Speaking of profiles, is it recommended to say load a profile you like from the stock ones, then copy them to the other open profile spots if you want to use those and modify?

nikos2002

iTrader: (30)

If your are going to run the 6.5 motor, I would recommend the VTX10R or VTX10R Black Edition. Especially in 4wd buggy. Would be a great fit - that is what we used with Travis and Lee when they were in the 4wd Worlds finals last year.

nikos2002

iTrader: (30)

Trojanman88- if you feel that you are driving at full throttle a majority if the time around the track, you many be undergeared --- which can cause the motor to get too hot. Last weekend I ran 18/46 with a VF8 2100kv motor (AE car), I could keep up with nitro cars (as long as I wasn't crashing - driver error). But I could see that if you geared too low and on the throttle for longer periods of time, it can heat up. But be carefull - 2700, 2500kv can be a bit extreme for racing.

Genebaby

iTrader: (7)

I run that motor with a 19 tooth pinion now, stock EB48 spur, it's plenty powerful for the big jumps, it's my driving which is the limiting factor.

I have the motor temp cutoff turned off on my VTX8.

cweb

iTrader: (36)

Due to space I have to chance my reciever to a smaller one of the same brand. should I re-calibrate the esc for that combo after I change to the mod profile?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

you should recalibrate when every you switch receivers. Otherwise, I never recalibrate.

Trojanman88

iTrader: (20)

Sounds like I am probably over geared with a 18/44 and the 1900kv. Both of you I am assuming have 46 spurs as I know that's what comes stock with the 8.2, not sure about the mbx7. I have already ordered a new center diff which comes with the 46 so I will see how that helps.

Still no thoughts on the b44.2. I ordered the fan for the vtx10 today so I will see if that helps. If I were to try and start with a generic profile which would be best? I plan on running this buggy Wednesday and would like to get the temps right prior. Please help, any info or insight would be great.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

For the B44.2 make sure you vent the living snot out of the body over both the ESC and motor. It's been a while since I ran my 6.5 vtx10r in my durango but the bodies on 4x4 buggies are really snug to the components and need to be smartly vented. I ended up running higher throttle frequency as well (more esc temp, less motor temp) to make it a bit easier to drive. You can some what balance motor and esc temp with the throttle freq.

DustinH

iTrader: (26)

He means more esc temp, less motor temp

Trojanman88

iTrader: (20)

So obviously since I want to go the opposite way and lower esc temp and not motor I go the opposite way with the throttle frequency. Should I even worry about adding timing?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

don't bother with timing, especially in a 1/8 on 4S.

WHere are you topping out down the longest straight in your buggy?

Do you find you are at close to full throttle around all the track, if so, you could be undergeared.

Alqwad

iTrader: (15)

Capacitor questions...

First, on the new cap that comes on the BE series esc's, it says on the product page that it must be used with A55 (I'm also assuming A55 and up). Does this mean that if you're running A55 (and up) that you have to use this cap or does this mean if you want to use this cap you must be running A55 (and up)?

Second, what is the real difference with the different cap packs (remotely mounted) that y'all offer. I see the standard BE one, the one with the 4 caps in a row and also a pack of 6 caps and one with 9. I understand the basic premise of caps reducing voltage ripple, etc... My son has been led to believe that for his stock racing (different brand of esc), that he'd benefit from adding additional caps to his existing esc. His current esc has one cap (provided by the manufacturer). Would he benefit from the 4 cap setup? Would he benefit more from the 6 or 9 cap setup? Thanks.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Single cap? Must be a tekin. The caps help with burst of power and take a little work off the esc. Therefore, can make the esc run a little cooler sometimes. Some people claim that the large cap banks help to make smoother brakes and acceleration. IMO, this would only help if there was a big power sag and the caps helped to flatten it. We used to use the caps for the same thing when I did car audio. What I have leaned recently, is that more small caps > 1 big cap. It has to do with how fast the caps charge. big caps take longer to change. the standard in 1/10 scale racing is normal 1-4 330uF caps. HW supplies 2-4 33uF caps, Viper has 2-3 440uF caps on the vtx10 and tekin has 1 330uF cap. IMO I often run 2x 330uF - 440uF caps. Any thing bigger becomes a pain to deal with and any fewer feels less smooth to me.