I've never had it happen but at the track I race at in the summer it happened over and over to one of the e Buggy racers. It wasn't coming out of the ESC though it was coming out of the motor. The cause was that his sensor cable was too short and when the chassis flexed it would tug on the sensor wire. I happened to have a slightly longer sensor wire in my pit box and traded him for the shorter one.

I would guess with a properly sized and secured cable it wouldn't ever be an issue unless the cable got caught on something that yanked it out of either the ESC or more likely the motor.

anybody ?

The BEC circuit is also wired slightly different do it will give you slight superior protection when running very low turn mods or 550 motors. Also with the external capacitor it does take slight more planning for mounting on your chassis

Both work just fine, and IMO you will have better luck and more consistency with the 4500. Top speed really isnt that much different when both are geared right.

do i have soldering wire on vtx8 esc right ?

#1 cause of sensor wire problems in my opinion is people don't secure them down. Especially on the motor side of things.

Given all the bumps, jumps and vibrations, the weight of the wire basically wiggles the wires and the plug, and one of two things happen. Either the plug itself wears out the socket in the sensor, and after awhile the plug keeps coming unplugged.

The other failure is that the wires will internally break right at the back of the plug. This is a hard one to find, because you can get what feels like cogging when the car jumps / lands.

I myself had some issues with this a couple of years ago, but once I isolated the weight of the wire from the plug, I can say I have not had one issue. And the sensor wire in my buggy is probably a year and a half old.

taztal3 -

The wires on the esc are pre-soldered. You will have to solder on your choice of plug to the power wires and then solder the wires to your motor.

Curious as well. I like the specs you guys have on the new ESC and figure it could be as robust as the MMM, maybe replace that ESC in the savage flux 5sc? :cool:

Nice job on the warranty length too. Suprises me still some companies claim there stuff is top notch, but don't feel its good enough to have a long warranty to boot.

Got the esc mounted and the motor soldered. Prob been nice to put the esc a little farther back but didnt want to kink the wires up too much. First time I soldered a RC motor turned out alright.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps852dbc1e.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps4bc90b58.jpg

I've also noticed a dodgy sensor wire can cause the ESC to reboot, which can cause confusion when trying to troubleshoot

I think my Esc took a dump today. My vtx10 when turned on, goes through the normal boot sequence but when the F and R lights flash it doesn't go past that sequence and stays flashing. I've tried the radio calobration and it still does it. I also tried a new sensor wire and no fix

Are you able to plug the pro-gauge in? If so try switching profiles and see if that's a go.

Nope it won't let me access any thing accept radio calobration

try a different receiver?

Yep. It changed nothing.The car ran fine for a battery. I pulled it off, just to charge the lipo and when the lipo was ready , I plugged it in and turned it on..... Now I'm stuck lol