Just got mine. It had V1 508 No Timing on it.

Thanks for the info. I guess I'm assuming it has same internals as the old stuff, except just able to run cooler maybe.

Ok I pulled a dumb move in a hurry at a race and went to hook up to my battery and crossed my leads and naturally the Jstock is now junk. Is this fixable or is it not worth the cost in repair and shipping and instead just buy new ?

Junk, buy a new one

Anyone have their V3.1 fan intermittently cutting out?

I have a brand new V3.1 120a ESC and ran mod with it last weekend. It would lightly cut out a bit after 4-5 minutes. Slowed it to the pits and found out the fan was not working. I'd move the blades with my finger and the fan would spin again. I made sure the screws were not too tight on the heatsink to cause binding.

ESC temp was about ~150F each time it slightly cut out a bit. Motor temps were fine, battery still had plenty of voltage.

Those fans are hopeless I'm afraid. Pickup a good aftermarket unit if running boosted class

very common, that's why they give you two

How can I remove the pre-soldered wires from my hobbywing stock-spec esc? Stuff doesnt melt with my 50w iron, pencil tip. Is it a simple matter of going to chisel tip with more a powerful iron? I don't want to ruin my esc by leaving the iron on it for too long

I just did the same with my new one, with a 80watt with a pencil tip from a 40 watt. I trimmed the wire to about 12mm cause the wire acts like a heat sink too. Prime your tip with a drop of solder. The stuff they use is real high temp, maybe something like "silver solder.

Increasing the initial brake setting on my Juststock from the 0 setting it came with to 20% made a bigger difference than just the 100% total brake strength.

Don't hold a 'dry' iron on the joints. You have to add solder to the joint. Get the iron as hot as you can, tin the tip, apply the iron to the joint, add more solder until the silver solder melts. Flux also works well in this application.

You need an 80 watt with fat tip. You should not need more than 5-6 seconds to melt the solder if more your iron just too weak and the prolonged heat will damage the pcb.
Use flux too makes the job of tinning ect way easier.

Initial brake at 20% means you don't have 1-19 which in turn results in harder braking.

What car? Every motor/car is different....

Thanks for the tips guys, I'm going to grab a 80W iron with a fat chisel tip then, at least I know its possible haha. I wished Hobbywing didn't pre-solder wires on esc's like the stock spec with stuff that the average iron cannot remove.

Interested in picking up a 21.5t V10 G2 at some stage, I have a V10 21.5t and V10 5.5t at the moment and I'm impressed with them

Greetings all,

I installed my new HW 3656SD combo. I went through my setting adjusted a few parameters to fit my driving style. After driving a 6 minute heat at my local track, I checked the temps to verify its operating temps. The highest temp reading I've obtained is 68 degrees on the motor and 71 degrees on the esc. My gearing is setup at 54/15 with a 2S battery. Is this a normal operating range of heat? Also, what is AMTS Timing?