4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
04-05-2013 | 11:40 PM
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
So then what's the fix for someone who doesn't want to change radios, receivers, motors, and servos just to get an ESC with brakes?
Obviously, Angelo, there is an issue here. It's not like it's a single occurrence and nobody else has ever reported it. We've got the last 100 pages asking about the soft brakes on Hobbywing ESCs.
There's gotta be SOMETHING you guys can look at. There are so many people here talking about the soft brakes, that it simply could not be a coincidence.
Obviously, Angelo, there is an issue here. It's not like it's a single occurrence and nobody else has ever reported it. We've got the last 100 pages asking about the soft brakes on Hobbywing ESCs.
There's gotta be SOMETHING you guys can look at. There are so many people here talking about the soft brakes, that it simply could not be a coincidence.
04-06-2013 | 12:33 AM
I run a HW Xerun 120A 1S speedo in 1/12 and WGT.
I had a problem with weak brakes.
I downloaded the latest USB Link app.
Updated my LCD box and loaded V3_508 No Timing on both speedos.
I set the parameters as noted in the attached text file. Its an Export from the USB Link app with my settings. You can save this file on your PC and import it into your USB Link then load it on your ESC.
I run a Futaba 4PL with a Spectrum H5020G servo and Trinity D3.5, D3 and TP Z3R 13.5 motors.
With my TX throttle and brake end points at 100% (no higher or lower) and my throttle trim centered I calibrated my ESC to my TX.
Now my brakes are strong and will almost lock up the rear wheels on my 1/12 and WGT.
I had a problem with weak brakes.
I downloaded the latest USB Link app.
Updated my LCD box and loaded V3_508 No Timing on both speedos.
I set the parameters as noted in the attached text file. Its an Export from the USB Link app with my settings. You can save this file on your PC and import it into your USB Link then load it on your ESC.
I run a Futaba 4PL with a Spectrum H5020G servo and Trinity D3.5, D3 and TP Z3R 13.5 motors.
With my TX throttle and brake end points at 100% (no higher or lower) and my throttle trim centered I calibrated my ESC to my TX.
Now my brakes are strong and will almost lock up the rear wheels on my 1/12 and WGT.
04-06-2013 | 02:42 AM
So then what's the fix for someone who doesn't want to change radios, receivers, motors, and servos just to get an ESC with brakes?
Obviously, Angelo, there is an issue here. It's not like it's a single occurrence and nobody else has ever reported it. We've got the last 100 pages asking about the soft brakes on Hobbywing ESCs.
There's gotta be SOMETHING you guys can look at. There are so many people here talking about the soft brakes, that it simply could not be a coincidence.
Obviously, Angelo, there is an issue here. It's not like it's a single occurrence and nobody else has ever reported it. We've got the last 100 pages asking about the soft brakes on Hobbywing ESCs.
There's gotta be SOMETHING you guys can look at. There are so many people here talking about the soft brakes, that it simply could not be a coincidence.
I personally don't have any issue with the brakes on my V2.1 in 17.5 Blinky TC, using the latest 508 version from the v3.2 usb link.
My settings are pretty much the same as Adrians, geared at 3.9FDR, with a D3.5 17.5, and Sanwa radio gear.
HiH
Ed
I run a HW Xerun 120A 1S speedo in 1/12 and WGT.
I had a problem with weak brakes.
I downloaded the latest USB Link app.
Updated my LCD box and loaded V3_508 No Timing on both speedos.
I set the parameters as noted in the attached text file. Its an Export from the USB Link app with my settings. You can save this file on your PC and import it into your USB Link then load it on your ESC.
I run a Futaba 4PL with a Spectrum H5020G servo and Trinity D3.5, D3 and TP Z3R 13.5 motors.
With my TX throttle and brake end points at 100% (no higher or lower) and my throttle trim centered I calibrated my ESC to my TX.
Now my brakes are strong and will almost lock up the rear wheels on my 1/12 and WGT.
I had a problem with weak brakes.
I downloaded the latest USB Link app.
Updated my LCD box and loaded V3_508 No Timing on both speedos.
I set the parameters as noted in the attached text file. Its an Export from the USB Link app with my settings. You can save this file on your PC and import it into your USB Link then load it on your ESC.
I run a Futaba 4PL with a Spectrum H5020G servo and Trinity D3.5, D3 and TP Z3R 13.5 motors.
With my TX throttle and brake end points at 100% (no higher or lower) and my throttle trim centered I calibrated my ESC to my TX.
Now my brakes are strong and will almost lock up the rear wheels on my 1/12 and WGT.
04-06-2013 | 07:04 AM
Yes there was a change made. Everyone that I know with a v2 based HW at the track has seen an improvement and has had no complaints.
04-06-2013 | 08:06 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 908
From: Carrollton, TX
Ok, I will try that. I"ll need to borrow my brother's program box, because we use his for all the v2.1 ESCs we have.
Edit: One more question. For you guys that run 17.5 blinky, do you feel it's necessary to have the fan on top of your ESC for cooling? I know a lot of Orion guys that run fanless even in mod, and since Orion R10's are just Hobbywing OEMs, I'm wondering if it's necessary for my ESCs
Edit: One more question. For you guys that run 17.5 blinky, do you feel it's necessary to have the fan on top of your ESC for cooling? I know a lot of Orion guys that run fanless even in mod, and since Orion R10's are just Hobbywing OEMs, I'm wondering if it's necessary for my ESCs
04-06-2013 | 02:26 PM
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
The 3.2 usb link will not allow you to download any other software to your esc but only whats available for the esc you have just plugged in .It will give you only those options say for the v3 or the 2.1 etc so there is no chance of making a mistake.
04-06-2013 | 02:28 PM
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
Ok, I will try that. I"ll need to borrow my brother's program box, because we use his for all the v2.1 ESCs we have.
Edit: One more question. For you guys that run 17.5 blinky, do you feel it's necessary to have the fan on top of your ESC for cooling? I know a lot of Orion guys that run fanless even in mod, and since Orion R10's are just Hobbywing OEMs, I'm wondering if it's necessary for my ESCs
Edit: One more question. For you guys that run 17.5 blinky, do you feel it's necessary to have the fan on top of your ESC for cooling? I know a lot of Orion guys that run fanless even in mod, and since Orion R10's are just Hobbywing OEMs, I'm wondering if it's necessary for my ESCs
04-06-2013 | 02:32 PM
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
Never run your radio above 100% of end points especially for throttle yhis will give you issues with brakes some radios like futaba have settings up to 120% which some racers think it will give you more puncj out of the corners no it wont it will just give you problems with esc nothing more .
04-07-2013 | 09:54 AM
04-07-2013 | 01:33 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 452
From: Austin TX
New v3.1 problem
I have a problem with my new v3.1.
The power button is not working. As soon as I plug it in the fan comes on and I have steering and power with a solid red led lit. When I press the power button to turn it off the led goes out, fan is still on still have steering but no power. When I hold break for 5 seconds to power it off I lose power but bot steering and the led goes to a solid green.
Any help greatly appreciated.
On a side note the esc is a week old and this is my first race weekendwith this esc.
The power button is not working. As soon as I plug it in the fan comes on and I have steering and power with a solid red led lit. When I press the power button to turn it off the led goes out, fan is still on still have steering but no power. When I hold break for 5 seconds to power it off I lose power but bot steering and the led goes to a solid green.
Any help greatly appreciated.
On a side note the esc is a week old and this is my first race weekendwith this esc.
04-07-2013 | 05:08 PM
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
I have a problem with my new v3.1.
The power button is not working. As soon as I plug it in the fan comes on and I have steering and power with a solid red led lit. When I press the power button to turn it off the led goes out, fan is still on still have steering but no power. When I hold break for 5 seconds to power it off I lose power but bot steering and the led goes to a solid green.
Any help greatly appreciated.
On a side note the esc is a week old and this is my first race weekendwith this esc.
The power button is not working. As soon as I plug it in the fan comes on and I have steering and power with a solid red led lit. When I press the power button to turn it off the led goes out, fan is still on still have steering but no power. When I hold break for 5 seconds to power it off I lose power but bot steering and the led goes to a solid green.
Any help greatly appreciated.
On a side note the esc is a week old and this is my first race weekendwith this esc.