I have the HW 120A Xerun V2.1 running 528MOD. I'm running a Durango DEX410,5.5T Reedy Sonic, track is a high grip medium size outdoor astro turf circuit. Could someone please give me some base line settings for the speedo to get me up and running, throttle, brake, punch, turbo, timing, delay etc etc many thanks

Any news on roar approval (good or bad) ?
One week left till the indoor carpet nats.
Hate to move on but the new software fixes the small
issues I had when running 17.5 stock.

Can someone explain DDRS setting , most setups seem to use level 9 but occasionally someone will say that the higher level just causes heat, im currently using 21.5 motor

DDRS can be seen as "launch power", it is the amount of power you have, from 0 kmh, until your Boost start RPM (if you are running boosted)
If you chose your Boost start RPM very low (1000-2000) it might be possible that both DDRS and Boost "overlap".
In this case a lower DDRS or Higher Boost start RPM is better.
The DDRS and Boost start RPM should follow up each other.
If the is a "gap" between DDRS and Boost start RPM, you can feel this, because the car feels "flat" in between.....

This is how I always try to explain it to people.

For now only the latest has been submitted 129 and i will know thursday if its approved.

This is potentially good.
Please let us know either way and thanks.:nod:

brake fade...
 

Hi guys,

I'm running a v2.1 120amp Xerun in 17.5 blinky with the 508 software from the v3.2 usb link package. I'm stuggling abit with the brakes and wondering if anyone can offer some advice.

If i hit the brakes from full speed they initially feel quite sharp but if i'm slowing into a hairpin they feel like they are fading and there just isnt enough braking force making it very easy to run wide. I'm running with 100% braking force and reverse force on the speedo at the moment.

Any advice to help reduce the 'fade' would be greatfully received (even if its something on the transmitter settings!

Thank
Dan

Crashmaster have u tried setting your brakes lower as u may be locking brakes causing to feel like no brakes try 80% I have had this problem

Also could be ur servo if it has a high power draw it might cause the receiver to lose signal from voltage drop when on lock and braking ur can get receiver power caps that helps with this

Thanks for the reply!

I was running them at 80% originally however had the same feeling. Even if yoi rev the car off the ground and then hit the brakes it doesnt 'snap' stopped it gently stops.

Could be power drop though i'm guessing that wouldnt happen when the car is held off the ground?

Dan

Probably won't happen when the car is off the ground as there is no load. Easy fix to test brown out issues is to plug a cap into the receiver's battery port.

That's odd because now that I have the latest blinky software on my car I do get that "snap" when braking on the bench that I never had with the earlier blinky softwares. Are you sure that you have downloaded the 508 from the 121204 database? The filename of the latest 508 is virtually identical to the previous one but the software on the 121204 database is different.

I've been running the latest 508 for a couple of months now but haven't had the chance to really test the brakes - outdoor season starts at the end of the month, and indoors doesn't need much brakes in comparison - so it will be interesting to see whether the brakes still have a softness on the track despite the sharpness on the bench.

I know that the v2.1 boosted brakes feel soft at 100% even though they are sharp on the bench, which I think is related to the hardware struggling under the load, because they work fine at 75%. Perhaps that is the case with the updated blinky brakes too?

hi guys,
just had my first outdoor race for this year and having little troubles with esc temperature in modified. we raced in approx 20°c conditions so not that hot. track had a long straigt. i used a thunderpower 4.5T with timing set at 15° on the motor (20° standard).

boost was set to 5° (10000 - 60000 rpms) and turbo to 25° (instant on full th). fdR was 7.7 (touring car). with fdr at 8.3 it did not shut off but was slow on the straight. i enabled overheat protection on the esc for 125°. after approx. 4min it just shut off.

never had that problem before. any setups that are maybe faster and still produce less esc and motor temp? need top speed on straight mainly. motor never coming off hotter than 80°c.

thx for the help

HW V3 software ok on SP Reventon Pro ?
 

Quote is 3 years old, but does this still comply ?
(Can use Speed Passion LCD-unit on HW, and vice versa.)

And does Hobbywing V3 software comply on SP Reventon Pro ,
and vice versa ?

Just got a Reventon Pro, to use in TC 13.5T-blinky.
But I would like to have 2 modes to interchange between on my LCD-unit:
One of course Blinky,
second mode to change into most possible boost - mode, when want to speed it up.
Possible, what to do, and what choose ?

Thanx!

Simple answer is no.

If you've got a long straight, I think the level of turbo your using is too high. Mod motors are quite sensitive to small adjustments in the boost and turbo, so even only dropping 2 steps or so can make a big difference.

Looking over the settings, I would go with more boost, and less turbo.
Try the following... which is not dissimilar to what Andy Moore uses (last time I asked anyway!)

FDR 8.0ish
Punch - 12/15, linear
Brake - 20/20 linear, 67.5%, 8% drag
Boost - 24steps, 12,500 - 27,500 rpm, linear
Turbo - 18steps, Delay 0.15s, 12°/s Engage, 18°/s Disengage

If you need more straight line, up the turbo to 20. Also, running a fan on the motor and esc is a must!

Hope it helps.
Ed