ok what has happened is that you have damaged one of the phases and thats the reason why it will not work with a sensor from start .

Now that you are running in sensorless mode it will work as esc sends current to two phases because it doesnt know were the rotor of the motor is positioned at any given time and thats the reason it works were with the sensor the esc needs to know were the rotor is positioned as it applies a current only to one phase and thats the reason why when you push the car manually it will start as the hall sensors have detected the rotor at a working position .

You need to send the esc in for repair

Hey Guys and Girls

Looking for a setup for V3, 21.5t Open (boosted/turbo) on a flowing low traction track, will need to know what FDR to run too.

Thanks

depends so much on the motor you are using, whether it is a torquey or rpm motor!

But fdr is normally around 5.

Boost & turbo dependent on the motor.

Start rpm 1500 to 3000
end rpm 12000 to 15000 rpm
boost by Th
Turbo by Th

as guide if you have been using a 2.1 use similar settings post your rpm start and acc and I can tell you the boost end rpm.

I damaged my Tekin and got a Justock as a low cost replacement for a few races until it was repaired. I am not sure I want to take it out. I race 1s/13.5 Blinky WGT and I am on pace with the fastest locals running $200 speeod with a $55 Justock....pretty impressive.

Any nice surprises prior to TITC 2013?

I wish you would have posted that about 2 days ago...just spend $60 on the Xtreme Stock for a few more options down the road but knew the Justock would have been plenty and now that its on sale for $50 at falconsekido.com i knew i should have stuck with the Justock, Dagnabit!

Just picked up a CRC 1/12 pan car and a Hobbywing 1s ESC....we are running a 13.5 blinky class.....what software version would be best?

I looked thru the thread quite a bit and couldnt find an answer

Thanks

For blinky on a 1S Speedo, use the V3_508_NoTiming software, don't forget to remove the voltage cutoff and rebind your transmitter though !

The HW 1S is also a V2 based ESC:

Post #10225

ok, the voltage cut-off...why are you turning that off?

Because there is a bug in the software that has yet to be fixed.

The bug is with 1S packs only .. the ESC thinks it's a low 2S battery and does not recognize it as a 1S. If you set it to something other than "off" then it won't work for 1S applications. So we just turn it off and it works perfectly fine.

It is something that needs to be fixed and has been an issue for a very long time.

so if i run 2s packs only do i set the LVC like on my SCT Pro to custom and do a 6.2v as i was told if you do custom it goes of total voltage and so far has worked good but thought about goin back to the 3.2 or 3.0 setting since HW seems to be slightly off on the settings

Correct me if I am wrong, when setting up the 1S esc you have a 2S plugged into it until all the settings are done?

Cheers
Rob.

Either a hw 21.5 or a sp mmm 21.5t

If you run 2s only .. you can set it to whatever you want, 3.0, 3.2, custom, etc.

It use to be like that .. however I don't remember doing that recently. I'll have to double check. I think the LVC might be set to "off" by default now, which would solve that particular problem (unless of course you turned it back on).