for the version 2's the punch rate known as torque how fast do you want to leave the line is the question but the higher the number the higer the discharge must be from your battery packs .settings 1-9 also depends what motors as you know low wind motors like the 3.5,4.5 etc with a high punch rate will need that extra discharge from the battery so make sure you run a high discharge pack of good quality

The v3 is a different system and works as a two stage first 50% of the throttle and the other 50% of the 2nd stage so throughout your punch you have control on a two stage basis this has been created for a linear much smoother throttle .

The v3 settings are 1st stage 1-30 steps 2nd stage 1-30 steps being 30 the most punch rate .

so if you want a very smooth and linear punch out of the start and corners please run your 1st stage about 20 your second stage in rising to the high rpm ranges so it doesnt really affect the start more for a linear throttle range .

if you want to go agressive then your 1st stage of the throttle being the first 50% should run 25-30 etc second stage can stay on about 27-28 even 30 .

i hope this explains is a little better but thank you to the guys who have explained most of it already keep up the great work

regards Angelo

I just wanted to say thank you to Hobbywing and Angelo for the great support he gave me here on the forum.

I'm using a v2.1 120A Xerun with the LCD programming box, and ever since I've put it into my SC10 back in May, I never looked back at my other ESCs. I'm using Novak Ballistic motors and it is a great combo both for large outdoor tracks, as well as smaller indoor tracks.

I was using mainly Castle's Mamba Max Pro before, but was never happy with its brakes, nor with its throttle feel, neither in sensored nor in sensorless mode. I also hated the fact, that I would've needed a laptop/PC to be able to adjust all parameters.

So I sold the MMP and I'm glad I did! I plan to buy the V3 Xerun when I'll want to upgrade - but hey, the v2.1 is so damn good, why should I need the v3?:sneaky:

Thank you for the kind words we can only try our best but im glad your happy with our product.

Some observations since switching to Blinky (No timing 508)


1) Low Voltage Cut-off still not fixed for 1S applications (WGT, 1/12th)

2) Bad Brakes if your initial brakes are set to 0 (brake strength 100%, Reverse 100%) you will almost no brakes at all. If you set the initial to 20% they will work fine, and are pretty strong, I turned my brake strength to 75% when the initial is at 20%.

3) When using my M11 and Spektrum PRO module, I can not set the End Points correctly for the brakes. Neutral works, Forward Works, and the brake End Point will not set unless the radios EPA is set to 65% or less. Doesnt effect me, but I think its another little oddity.

With all the racing in Canada and US switching to blinky racing, you would think having good blinky software would be a top priority for a company making big inroads here.

Shawn

i thought the same
 

I havnt tried it in one cell but i know when my son set it up with the channel in rev it had better brakes...
but are you running timing on the motor as well as this might have some influence as well..
hope this helps
regards

but if youve tried that than i cant compare re the radio as we went Sanwa and have no other issues

I have to agree that in blinky mode the brakes could be better. Another observation is that if you go from full throttle then pause briefly in neutral and then brake, the brakes are very strong.
Will try the setting you have suggested and will see if this makes a difference to the brakes in my esc (Xtreme Stock)

Cheers
Rob.

Lovely. Havnt noticed this yet. I did have some weird "drag brake" effect sometimes when entering corners.. I wonder if its related. I solved the drag brake effect by moving the throttle/brake 3% towards throttle.

Once I figured out what was going on, it had to do with the brake EPA not taking correctly. It would go from neutral to full brakes almost instantly. I changed the EPA, it works correctly. Just a weird glitch of some sort.

Hopefully HW will release the fixed version of the Blinky FW. I checked back in the forum, and Angelo first said they were testing it back in April 2011.

Shawn.

I was going to suggest that you try increasing the throttle neutral width to 9 degrees to see if it addressed the "drag brake" effect, but it appears you've found a work around.

As JAM Racing suggested you could also set your throttle direction in your radio to reverse, then re-calibrate the esc. This is mentioned in the esc instructions and has helped a couple of members at my local race track to achieve more braking power, more so those people using Spektrum radio's.

I believe someone recently prodded him about the brakes in the 508 no timing software, perhaps if we prod him a bit more there may be an update coming for it. ;)

Cheers
Rob.

I have a 120 amp v2.1 speedo. I tried downloading the v3 software and cant get it to work. Evidenty its not compatiable with my speedo? Where can i get software that will give me timing, boost, start rpm end rpm , etc for the 2.1?

From the Hobbywing North America falconSekido website, version 1.64 for the older 2.1 esc's. The file is in rar format so you will need something like Winrar to extract it.
Version 1.64 Software

The V3 software should still work for your v2.1 esc as long as you update the firmware to V1.08_120504 in the 2 in one LCD programming box. The "V1.11_120331_V3 Firmware for the programming box is for the V3 esc's only.
Hope this helps.

Cheers
Rob.

http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=218

Download version v3.1 it will be the most current. And will work with both the V2.1 and V3 esc's. The setup is new compared to the 1.64. I like the 3.1 better myself.

I have tried changing the initial brake setting. Unfortunately it doesn't stop the "soft delay" in the brakes when you go straight from full throttle to full brake - but I can see how the higher initial brake value might make the brakes feel sharper.

My Futaba radios have always been fine setting up at 100% travel.

THIS is the fundamental issue. If you go straight from full throttle to full brake, there is a soft delay in the braking. If you pause momentarily at neutral, then the brakes are strong. It's not a sound platform for racing. This quirk is not apparent on some older versions of the software (205MOD for example), so it must be a bug.

Chatting to a friend at the track last week, he found that the blinky software for the V3 also had much weaker brakes than the boost software (the V3 boost brakes seem better than the V2 boost brakes). I haven't had the chance to bench test a V3 though to see if it is the same fault.

The most frustrating thing is that Angelo came on here a month ago and said they were aware of the fault and were going to release a corrected software within the week. One month on - no software, no further response to my reminder. Whether that is Angelo's fault, or the fault of HW, I don't know - either way, as customers we are left with unresolved issues despite pledges to the contrary. Not good enough. Either keep your word or say nothing.

With zero timing (blinky) racing gaining popularity, braking performance is going to become a key performance factor.
I have been advised to try using 4 caps instead of the 2 that are on my esc to see if that also helps to increase the brakes.

I'm more than happy with the performance of my hobbywing esc's, along with the level of support I received when I had an issue with one of them, which was resolved at a level that was highly satisfactory.

I am sure that Angelo & HW are aware of the "soft" braking withing the "blinky" software and hopefully working towards a resolution.
Perhaps a update on the progress could be given to let us know that HW is working towards a updated version of the no timing software?

Cheers
Rob.

Hi guys
Anyone a good setup for TW Modified indoor mid size track with 4.5 motor?
Thanks a lot

Regards from Switzerland
Sandro

You cannot get these features on any software for a V2.1 speedo.
They are only available on the V3 esc's.

Any of the v2.1 programmes will give you timing, boost, boost start rpm, the boost end rpm on the V2.1's is set by the acc value.

If you use a start boost of 1000 rpm, an acc of 250 and boost timing of 10, your end rpm is 10 x 250 = 2,500 + 1000 = 3,500 end rpm, if the boost timing was 50, then the end rpm would be 50 x 250 = 12,500 + 1,000 end rpm would then be 13,500 rpm. This is the end rpm of the boost being added, turbo timing would then add more rpm.