Thankyou for your help Angelo did send me an email saying the same, my biggest problem was I only had the 2 boxes that couldn't hook up to a PC but thanks to a fellow club memeber who had one we reflashed it and it know works.

I have since orderered the current spec controller.

Noel

Hi Guys

I need to know how many of you have a v3 that doesnt turn off from the switch after a run ?

please let me know by email at [email protected] or [email protected]

thank you for your kind words Rob much appreciated .I want to be able to help everyone with any kind of support for hobbywing's products even the oems like orion,yokomo and Hpi and many more .

so fire away guys

Hi Guys

i dont really like the way rc tech have now changed the pm system so please email me at [email protected] or [email protected]

Any updates on the V3 1S?

I had an unusual issue last night with a 120A 1S that I was hoping someone could maybe shed some light on.

Twice after a fairly hard hit the ESC seemed to go into a limp mode, or behave like the motor was running on only 2 poles. Upon inspection there was nothing mechanically wrong with the car and the gear mesh was fine, all the wires were making good connections. Both times it was near the end of a run, but there was still plenty of charge in the battery. The motor was at 65*C and the ESC 35*C. After turning the car off and back on again later the problem was gone. I haven't encountered anything like this before. Is it normal?

I would double check that the sensor cable is securely plugged in.

yes i have seen it before and when you reset the esc by turning on and off its fine .

Please check your rx cable going to your receiver to make sure it is plugged in properly and also your sensor cable as both could have moved during the impact and then could have made contact again because they have open circuit you have to reset the esc for it to fucntion again as it will come up with the error .

Thank you. Will do.

So.... next week is now next month. Any sign of this improved Blinky software?

DAN ALSO
 

Dan try mounting it on some thicker type double sided tape
Cured all jeffs problem same issue same esc

I don't know if I missed it, but was there a firmware update for the weak brakes? My Justock ESC has very little braking power, even at 100% brakes. My brother's JuStock is also the same, and we're running identical settings.

Also, his 120a 1s that he's using in a 17.5 sedan has weak brakes too. I'm kinda surprised because his brakes at 85% are like my Tekin RS Pro at 50%.

+1 to this.
Or put 2 or even 3 layers of the double sided tape down on itself to give the esc a softer "cushion" to sit on.

As odd as this may sound, have you tried setting your reverse force in the esc to 100% even if you have it set in forward/brake mode only?
If not, this may help to give you some more braking power.

Cheers
Rob.

Bump. Please explain the throttle punch function

just as it sounds...the intial punch of the throttle when you pull the trigger. If you just go 100% right out of the gate and have punch set high you will go full power right away, if you slowly pull the throttle it doenst do anything. I didnt notice much of a difference with my remote settings set @ 100% but once i turned the remote EPA down the punch settings seemed to work more effectively. But if you go above 7 your suppose to have HIGH Discharge batts to support the extra umph so if your not running a 50-60c discharge rate, dont go above 6-7