Might do later in the year:D
but going to give it a go again in the last two rounds of the STCC!

I usually run 13.5 with a fixed timing end bell (Corally pro red 13.5 - 30 degrees) I am going to try 21.5 using a GM motor.
This motor has adjustable timing is it best to leave it std or put max timing on it and just run boost or should it the timing be retarded like the X-12 (putting it to 4 dot)?

Hi how are you going? i hope your fine and well but please do us a favour ,This forum is for hobbywing users to share information about setups and what experiences they have with the product it is not for you or anyone else for that matter to come on this forum and make remarks as above with no solid information .

We ask you to participate in the discussion and your welcome in the forum but please supply information that will benefit the user and this forum nothing else .

thank you and i hope you have a Great weekend .

Angelo

The fan is now working properly, but at the same time the capacitor board unsoldered itself. There was also a funny electrical smell so I am asuming it was dodgy.

any one know best gearing ratio supercharge for ep12

Mind sharing your setup with the pro red?

Hotbodies TCX
FDR 5.71
211 stock
1.1
2.1 0%
3.4 3V
4.3
5.8 100%
6.4 100%
7.2 0
8.1 6%
9.64
10. 4 1.8
11.1 enable
12.1. 0
13.6 6000
14.4 0.3
15.10 500

Outdoor track - ashpalt high grip- technical

for longer straight drop FDR to 5.33, but it then loses the punch out the corner.
I find this set up is very smooth in power delivery

Hope that helps

Barry, interesting how you add all the timing and no boost. Is that common for 13.5 or is it something you've found just works for you?

Actually I run all boost and NO turbo.
Reading through this thread and the comments of Cobra etc, Turbo is best on tracks with a long straight.
Since with 211 the boost is added first then the turbo and with our short straight, the car is smoother and faster with boost only.
Boost also applies all through the range once the rpm has been met, I found that having turbo could cause the power to come at the wrong moment, just as I was coming into a corner, or if I lifted in a fast sweeper then went back to full throttle it could upset the balance of the car.

A lot of the drivers at Coastal use Boost only.

Well here to say Hello!

Just received a Xerun 120A which will go into an "old" TC3 for fun and as a spare to my RS pros if they have trouble (who knows,it might even finished in my TC6...if I find it better...)

So I am sure I will be back for news and recommendations shortly.

So far I tried to bench plug the control box and speedo but out of car without anything connected, and it does not work...have to fit in car later on (just wanted to see how program box looked).

See ya

plus one wat barry said , i race at the same place him , i use boost only, ill post my setup later for a d3 13.5.

I'm running mine with one turn of timing on the endbell and esc settings same as corally but fdr at like 7.8 maybe try it at around 6.5 on the 21.5 cos mine is a 13.5

Cheers Thomas will give that a try.

Wow this is turning into a coastal 21.5 thread :-)

Be warned anyone planning to run settings from a Corally motor onto any other motor type, these are very unique and have some very strange settings in order to get them to work, this also works the other way as well.

Well my first question.

Regarding 10.5t, With the exact same set up (speedo and ratio) do you find that a LRP X12 heats up more than a SP or HW motor?