4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
05-22-2011 | 10:51 AM
#5087
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 161
From: Penteli, Athens, Greece
A few days ago I wrote here about my new Xtreme stock having almost no brakes at all, while with the Xerun 60A I have to reduce the ATL on the radio to 45% to have the same effect on brakes.
Can someone tell if the Xtreme stock is built this way, or it MAY have a problem?
Due to space restraints, I find it hard to install either Xerun (60A or 120A, they have the same bigger footprint) inside the Thunder Tiger SB-5 1/5th scale racing bike, while the Xtreme stock fits nicely, including the fan. I am running a Nosram 17.5T (equivalent to X11), have set forward brake 100%, reverse 100%, and of course when setting it up, my radio is at 100% ATL. Also, due to class restrictions, I run no front brake.
Can someone tell if the Xtreme stock is built this way, or it MAY have a problem?
Due to space restraints, I find it hard to install either Xerun (60A or 120A, they have the same bigger footprint) inside the Thunder Tiger SB-5 1/5th scale racing bike, while the Xtreme stock fits nicely, including the fan. I am running a Nosram 17.5T (equivalent to X11), have set forward brake 100%, reverse 100%, and of course when setting it up, my radio is at 100% ATL. Also, due to class restrictions, I run no front brake.
Last edited by steliosh; 05-22-2011 at 10:52 AM. Reason: spellling!
05-22-2011 | 10:56 AM
#5088
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
we need the product in the stores were the customer can walk in and talk face to face with a rep and get the customer service he or she deserves.
05-22-2011 | 10:58 AM
#5089
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
A few days ago I wrote here about my new Xtreme stock having almost no brakes at all, while with the Xerun 60A I have to reduce the ATL on the radio to 45% to have the same effect on brakes.
Can someone tell if the Xtreme stock is built this way, or it MAY have a problem?
Due to space restraints, I find it hard to install either Xerun (60A or 120A, they have the same bigger footprint) inside the Thunder Tiger SB-5 1/5th scale racing bike, while the Xtreme stock fits nicely, including the fan. I am running a Nosram 17.5T (equivalent to X11), have set forward brake 100%, reverse 100%, and of course when setting it up, my radio is at 100% ATL. Also, due to class restrictions, I run no front brake.
Can someone tell if the Xtreme stock is built this way, or it MAY have a problem?
Due to space restraints, I find it hard to install either Xerun (60A or 120A, they have the same bigger footprint) inside the Thunder Tiger SB-5 1/5th scale racing bike, while the Xtreme stock fits nicely, including the fan. I am running a Nosram 17.5T (equivalent to X11), have set forward brake 100%, reverse 100%, and of course when setting it up, my radio is at 100% ATL. Also, due to class restrictions, I run no front brake.
05-22-2011 | 11:08 AM
#5090
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 161
From: Penteli, Athens, Greece
yes, Angelo, 211.
I am familiar with upgrading firmwares since the early days (two Xerun 60A's and a 120A later...)
I also have all the earlier versions, and I can "downgrade" if needed...
Edit: I also use 211 in the xerun 60A, in my other bike (KP10), with a Trinity Duo2 17.5T motor and exactly the same gearing.
I have not switched motors, though.
I am familiar with upgrading firmwares since the early days (two Xerun 60A's and a 120A later...)
I also have all the earlier versions, and I can "downgrade" if needed...
Edit: I also use 211 in the xerun 60A, in my other bike (KP10), with a Trinity Duo2 17.5T motor and exactly the same gearing.
I have not switched motors, though.
05-22-2011 | 11:13 AM
#5091
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 161
From: Penteli, Athens, Greece
These are my settings on both speedo's:
drag brake 10%
ddrs level 5
brakeforce 100%
rev. force 100%
initial brake: Drag
neutral 6%
Boost 50,
slope 18,
turbo 20,
start rpm 3000,
delay 0.2,
timing acc 150
drag brake 10%
ddrs level 5
brakeforce 100%
rev. force 100%
initial brake: Drag
neutral 6%
Boost 50,
slope 18,
turbo 20,
start rpm 3000,
delay 0.2,
timing acc 150
05-22-2011 | 06:27 PM
#5094
Craig please read my post properly i have no dout that hobbywing is large in the club scene but what i was talking about is Hobby stores not clubs.We need support in the uk and thats what stuart can deliver online stores dont want to support the customer but just sell to them thats all, all the rest is left to stuart who hasn't even sold the product to the customer so why should it be left on stuarts back to sort out an issue when he hasn't made a penny think about it is it fair?
we need the product in the stores were the customer can walk in and talk face to face with a rep and get the customer service he or she deserves.
we need the product in the stores were the customer can walk in and talk face to face with a rep and get the customer service he or she deserves.
VAT £12.95
Shipping etc £4.95
Markup for Model Shop £14.50
Costs due to these £32.50
Racers in Exile takes around £5.00 for wholesale produce and has to spend hours on phone supporting all the people we supply as well as all the people Giantcod supply due to them knowing nothing about the product and not really caring once the unit is sold. They have even in the past referred people to me for warranty work.
I take the time to help out individuals both here and on the phone and I am getting fed up with doing it for nothing.
I would like to mention a conversation with one of the UK's more famous and friendly retailers who we supply, "so we only make £15 from an ESC, with Speedpassion we get at least double that".
Ask Rob at Giantcod if you can borrow his laptop at a race meeting to update your ESC? Ask him to exchange units that have blown up? The main reason we have low stock levels is because we sell to the trade and have to keep a large portion of our stock tied up to cover the replacement of units.
Go buy from GC, I know you all hate paying VAT but unfortunately it is a fact of life when shops supply / support them GC does none of this and does not support the racers with help advice and a point of contact.
I am happy to stop trying to spread the brand and leave you all to the tender mercies of HK sellers and sites like GC where you are on your own.
05-22-2011 | 08:07 PM
#5097
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,338
I recieved a phone call this morning from Greg Fisher and an email from our friends in Thailand that the owner and operator of Rc City Thailand Mr P art passed away yesterday .If some of you dont know rc city it was the rc centre of this years TITC race .
From all of us from the hobbywing family and rc industry we send our condolenses to Mr P arts family and we hope that his family can continue to run rc city as we know that was Mr P Art dream to finish building a state of the art rc centre were all could enjoy the friendships that r/c brings .
Rest in Peace and may god be with you .
with maximum respect Angelo
From all of us from the hobbywing family and rc industry we send our condolenses to Mr P arts family and we hope that his family can continue to run rc city as we know that was Mr P Art dream to finish building a state of the art rc centre were all could enjoy the friendships that r/c brings .
Rest in Peace and may god be with you .
with maximum respect Angelo
05-22-2011 | 11:27 PM
#5099
Tech Master
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,316
From: The Netherlands
Did you notice a difference between say 9 DDRS and 1 or 4 DDRS?
DDRS is the only setting that is a little hazy for me. I know it is punch but how does the esc do that? Is it frequency or something else? and is it at full throttle or also when i squeeze the trigger slowly? For how long / distance will it be?
In my pro10 i have punch at 1 or 2 as i don't want to have punch out of slow corners. I always roll on the throttle for the first meter or two so i didn't think it was of much use. I never tried anything else to be honest so that is why i want to understand it a little more.
Acceleration wise it can hold it's own against other brands but a little more understanding of how it works is interesting as well.
05-22-2011 | 11:34 PM
#5100
You thought wrong...
Sensored means that the speedo can be told where the rotor is, but it cannot be told how the fluctuating interaction of the magnetic fields is. When the speedo knows where the rotor is, it can tell you angle and speed.
Knowing angle means the speedo can work out when to fire the coils in relation to the instructions you gave it in the programming box. If you told it to increase the timing by one degree per 200 rpm (boost), the speedo will do just that. As it knows what the rpm is, it will deliver one degree every 200 rpm, and if it doesn't see the rpm, it doesn't deliver the timing.
However, when you tell it to put in turbo after X seconds at a rate of XX degrees per seconds, this has no relation to revs - it just does it. So, if the motor has achieved 70% of the boost revs when the turbo comes in, that can be too much timing, causing a poor interaction of the magnetic fields, and thus the motor stops accelerating and just generates heat. That is why turbo is so useless on short tracks, because it comes in when you tell it to, and not when the motor can accept it.
ALWAYS use gear ratio, boost and boost 'timing' (200, 250, 300, etc.) to tune the car on the infield. ONLY if the car is at full speed 2/3 the way down the straight is it useful to use turbo. It's like it was in the old BR days - spring type and pressure, brush type, magnet strength and gear ratio all had to be right for the car to be fast.
If you only use boost, then you are right, once you have found the right settings to get the car to accelerate fast, it will always do that. The problem comes when you throw in turbo, as that is not related to motor speed and that's when the heat problems start. HTH
Sensored means that the speedo can be told where the rotor is, but it cannot be told how the fluctuating interaction of the magnetic fields is. When the speedo knows where the rotor is, it can tell you angle and speed.
Knowing angle means the speedo can work out when to fire the coils in relation to the instructions you gave it in the programming box. If you told it to increase the timing by one degree per 200 rpm (boost), the speedo will do just that. As it knows what the rpm is, it will deliver one degree every 200 rpm, and if it doesn't see the rpm, it doesn't deliver the timing.
However, when you tell it to put in turbo after X seconds at a rate of XX degrees per seconds, this has no relation to revs - it just does it. So, if the motor has achieved 70% of the boost revs when the turbo comes in, that can be too much timing, causing a poor interaction of the magnetic fields, and thus the motor stops accelerating and just generates heat. That is why turbo is so useless on short tracks, because it comes in when you tell it to, and not when the motor can accept it.
ALWAYS use gear ratio, boost and boost 'timing' (200, 250, 300, etc.) to tune the car on the infield. ONLY if the car is at full speed 2/3 the way down the straight is it useful to use turbo. It's like it was in the old BR days - spring type and pressure, brush type, magnet strength and gear ratio all had to be right for the car to be fast.
If you only use boost, then you are right, once you have found the right settings to get the car to accelerate fast, it will always do that. The problem comes when you throw in turbo, as that is not related to motor speed and that's when the heat problems start. HTH
119STOCK does exactly as described above in terms of Turbo. If the delay is met, then it puts it in.
211STOCK is a bit different, in that the delay and full boost have to be met before it adds the turbo timing. In which case 211 avoids dumping in too much timing in, too early... which makes it a little smoother.
HiH
Ed