kschu

iTrader: (16)

yes, it's true...tekin esc also need to set like that last time tho....but not sure with it latest software now...

vadersing

iTrader: (8)

Considering to buy the above combo for club 17.5t race.

Has anyone tried this? Is the competitive against the Tekins?

Which is the recommended software for 17.5t racing with boost?


Thanks

whoopass

er more than quick enough for the tekins! run 1224 stock S/W, and the recommended setting. you could get away with the 60A ESC if 17.5/13.5 is all you're going to run.

TeamWTF

iTrader: (11)

I use the Duo3 and HW myself... nothing wrong with the speed and deff on par with tekins etc...

As said 1224 software. Dont forget you will need a decent heatsink/fan for the motor... MUST HAVE item.

The 120a is a great speedy. If i could start fresh i would buy nothing else (I have a 120a + 120a 1s for 12th and a Xtreme stock for open 17.5...)

I have used the 120a in mod and stock. Versatility wins here...

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

With the older version of software I had almost no brakes at all, with this new version the car stops on a dime. I run the braking and Rev at 100% (Forward/Brake mode). I will play with it tomorrow night to see if the bug is gone or not.

I dont know if it makes a difference or not, but I always flash it twice. I used to program microcontrollers for a living, and found that they dont always program properly the first time (so this isnt a HW problem, but a generic flash/microcontroler issue). I also re calibrate my radio when ever I upload new FW.

HW: Have your FW do a CRC or Checksum on the EEPROM when the software is installed to make sure the uploaded firmware is correct. You could have it do it when you first bootup the ESC. (Have a flashing light sequence that signify's a corrupt ROM. ) Also, I would like to see upto 60 deg of boost


Cheers,
Shawn.

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

If you are only runing stock motors you might want to consider the XtremeStock.. Really nice ESC. I am out fitting both of my TC with them this year.

Shawn

zamrioo2

i reflashed 2 times last night... even 100% of 1224 brake, cant achieve as 75% 422s brake...

sizheng

Shawn, do you set your drag brake to 0%? for stock racing here(we tested 11.5t), we set drag brake to 0, and brake force to 25,37.5 or 50%. That will help to reduce the sudden stop feeling. especially at the end of straight (turbo off in a short time will make some feeling like drag brake.)

Redharris

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by trx B E View Post
All right guys I have the xtreme stock with the latest firmware! I am running it in a SC truck but I am having nothing but problems! The first problem was solved when the voltage cutoff had to be dropped to 2.8v so the truck could finish the race! Now no rhyme or reason in the middle of the race it seems as though it goes into the sensorless mode or zero timing really slow mode! I reset the throttle and let it sit then it is fine again till halfway through the heat? I switched motors and sensor wires and batteries but not sure what is causing this but very frustrating especially since it is so new and nothing but problems! It appears the green light is flashing when it does this! Any help would be great would be great!
Cobra or someone could you give me any ideas on what is causing this?

My Buddy was having this Same Exact problem. He was also running the 120 A Xerun with a 17.5T Trinity motor in his SC10. It turned out that his Lipos were not up to the task of powering the system, and it would "mysteriously" drop off in power (go sensorless) or quit completely mid race, like it was Thermaling, but it wasnt getting Hot. He bought some Higher C lipos and the problem went away. The lipos that were causing the Problems were Turnigy 2S 30-40C 5000mah batts. The batteries were well used, and that may have been the Problem. Or, perhaps the Turnigy Batts were never "up to the task" to begin with.

trx B E

I do have brand new turnigy 5000 packs but I also just bought a brand new Icon 45c 5000 pack and the same thing?

COBRARACING

The Green led flashing 3 single times is the esc is in overheat protection mode esc is hot over 95 degree c .

The Green led flashing 3 double times is the motor is over temp only on sensored motors .

You have mentioned the Green led is a sign of the program being reset it is not the case at all as if the Green led was the sign of the program reset it wouldnt work until the changes are complete and that only happens when using the reset buttom to program the esc.

Conclusion your trying to run a massive drive train(as the sc truck which has bigger wheels and a larger drive train with an under powered motor .what happens is once the motor is at it's peak it starts to draw more and more current thus causing the esc to over heat and shut down remembering a motor is actually an uncontrolled device which when it demands the current the esc will supply unconditionally until the esc over heats and runs into protection mode .

Hobbywing has sc10 and sc8 which are more suited to the sc trucks.

Your settings as way to high ,driver train is very heavy and motor is underpowered causing an over temp protection circuit to cut in and of course it will work again after is stops and you turn it off and on again as the temp in a very short time like mil secs will drop 1 or 2 degrees allowing the esc to fucntion again once reset as the temp is set at 95 degrees.

You other issue with you battery and having to drop the volataage cut off to 2.8v for it to function has nothing to do with the esc but your battery all batterys are different in design and low voltage cutoffs .

anything else you need to know please email me at [email protected]

COBRARACING

I dont want to be seen as bashing products as it is not my way of doing things but lets be honest the Turnigy Battery packs are not up to the task to handle massive discharge current .But i guess you get what you paid for .

COBRARACING

Hi guys

We have noticed alot of counterfeits lately of the hobbywing products so far only the 35 amp ezrun and 60 amp ezrun

The shops with these products have been tracked to ebay stores abayyer and demon 2 so far .

what to look for is the clear case on/off switch used ,different serial numbers on the packaging ,warranty card and product. very poor soldering ,some decals missing and spelling mistakes .Larger than expected physical size of capacitors ,noisy fans etc .

The 35 amp sold is actually a 25 amp and the 60 amp is a 45 amp only as they have some missing mosfets on the circuit boards .

They are usually priced around the $50 mark so becareful what you buy on online stores and especially ebay .

thank you for your time

ps:anyone affected please let me know and send me some photos so i can investigate and also the store bought from so i can prepare a report for you for ebay and paypal or your finacially institution so you can receive your money back .

Mitch-e4fs

iTrader: (7)

Cobra, is there a list of motors that work with the over temp cut off?
Ive had some get very hot and some even burn out while the esc had over temp protection on.

Thanks

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

how much boost/timing can we ever have?