gixer

Tell you what this software is kick ass
I've just ordered another 120A XeRun Esc i'm THAT impressed.

Vast majority of my driving is drifting, and this software version hit the nail bang on the head.
I have extremely fine control of the throttle, but that extra turbo really helps pull the car out in certain situations.

It's like i have a 10.5T fitted 90% of the time then a 5.5T fitted the other 10% if needed.

Tried the Hobbywing recommended settings of:


As during yesterdays quick test the motor ran too hot, i was seeing 75c with both motor fans on.
The thing is mental fast though and that noise

I settled on:


Seems just about right for todays surface.


Only thing that lets this Esc done now is that bloody LiPo cut off.
Who ever have the idea of having the car just stop dead where it is when the LVC is reached needs to drive in a group of people in close racing.

Absolutely crazy.

Please HW can we not have a LVC that gives us some warning instead of stopping dead and having the rest of the field pile into us THEN have to walk over to pick up the car and return it.

Talk about walk of shame


Cheers
Mark

jonthesparky

Hey just ran the 422 software in my b4 and t4 with 10.5 motors and it is awesome had the same speed as a 6.5 lrp down the straights has anyone tried this with an 8.5 would it work?

defcone

iTrader: (15)

What turn motor are you running and what fdr?

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

whats the easiest way to get this software.

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

Hi All, I am about to start building a Mi4LP to run at our state titles in two weeks. I'll be running a HW-120A with a SP17.5 V2. I'll be starting at 7.0FDR and the track is a medium size med-high grip outdoor course, rather flowing but short straight aways.
From your experience, what is a good starting point for settings? (just as below?) With all this turbo stuff, can it still have a linear power feel, or will it only be like a actual turbo car?

FDR:6.0-6.5
9:Option 8
12:Option 9
13:Option 1
14:Option 5
15:Option 1

steliosh

You definitely need to upgrade your batteries, Mark!!!!
I never had a duration problem with a 5.5T and 4000mah/30C no-name lipos in my Losi XXX-S G, geared at around 5.5FDR at huge FRT...

Unless you are trying to extract TWO 5-minute sessions from each battery?

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

is everyone using the beta file for the 422

chavoo

iTrader: (19)

Does Venom Pro ESC 120A V1 able to use this software?

POPPYD

I dont think it will as you couldnt get the SP vt software to load onto the V1 esc ( i couldbe proved wrong ). It works awsome on the Venom V2 esc.

geubes

Did some more racing and testing with this software again today.

17.5.

I started with the following settings:

DRRS (4): 7
Boost Timing (9): 7
Turbo Level (12): 8
Boost Start (13): 1
Time Delay (14): 5
Turbo Punch (15): 2
Geared at 6.4 motor came off at 45 degrees C with a quickest lap of 15.47

Then for next run upped DRRS to 8, Boost Timing (setting 9) to 8, lap time dropped to 15.05 but motor went to 65C - changing DRRS to 8 had a big improvement on punch

so for the 3rd run I put the Boost timing back to 7 and upped Turbo Level (setting 12) to 9 aka max. With the less timing boost but more turbo level the lap time went to 14.97 motor at 60C

for run 4 I kept with my 3rd run settings and changed Turbo Punch (15) to 1 and added 5 degrees timing to the motor endbell. This was a noticable change and the car really screamed, the motor came off at 53 degrees and lap times of 14.90, so it was quicker - but the motor did drop off noticably at 3 and half minutes into the run, all of a sudden had no grunt. So I think this was overtimed due to the motor timing?

So for run 5 I removed the motor endbell timing (back to 0), kept the settings as above, aka:
DRRS (4): 8
Boost Timing (9): 7
Turbo Level (12): 9
Boost Start (13): 1
Time Delay (14): 5
Turbo Punch (15): 1

But added a tooth to the pinion, so the FDR went to 6.1. with this the motor came off at 60C and lap time 14.80 (quicker again).

For the last run I moved the Time Delay (14) to 3. the boost kicked in sooner but the motor was reved out before the end of the straight: motor at 65C fastest lap 14.78 (very slight improvement, but the car was lacking top end on the straight). So I changed this setting back to 5 for next time.

Things Ide like to try next: Gearing up again (5.85), increasing delay to 6 (0.5 seconds) to have the boost kick in later in the rev range, upping DRRS to 9. might even try setting 9 back to max (8) but i know this will increase temps a fair bit.

Hope this is some use to someone.

Very happy with the software.

adri-13

i have tested the 422 soft with a GM pro 10.5 in indoor. It's more fast than a tekin RS vegas soft with a 7.5!!!

great job

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Mind to share your settings?

gixer

I'm running this mate:

Me batteries are fine Stelios, i've got various LiPo's from 5000mah to 5800mah 20C to 40C, i manage to get at least 1 hour out of each at the very worst.

Problem is the low voltage cut off just stops the car dead where it stands.
Did the Greek drift competition today and the car just stopped dead in the middle of the track in the middle of a practice run.

By the time i'd walked all the way to the car to collect it had a fair few big hits
You can't blame the other drivers as no one really expects a car to be stopped dead half way through the apex, but this is by far the biggest problem i have with the Esc right now.

It'd be even worse in me off road truck.
Imagine the Esc just stopping dead half way through a muddy field.


Is there any way i can program in another type of LVC?
As i say the MMP LVC stop starts the car, it's obviously not good to drive like that but at least you can drive the car back to you rather than have to set off and bring the car back.




Cheers
Mark

steliosh

Thanks for sharing geubes. Very interesting findings, indeed and they willl be useful to me at least!

Mark, I also read what you wrote at the other HW thread! But expecting to get 1 hour from each battery is a bit... hmmm... harsh!!!

You might find it useful to just put a volt meter on the battery to make sure it's charged enough before a race heat...

gixer

Thanks mate.

In the heats and qualifying i fit a freshly charged battery so it's less of a problem then, it's still a right ball ache in practice though and in the few days i've been using the XeRun my cars sustained a fair amount of damage 100% from having just stopped dead in the middle of the track.

The event was at Aspropygos today and i as testing the car at the rear of the circuit (we only use a section of the track for drifting) when the LVC kicked in.
So i had to walk all the way out to the back end of the track to retrieve my car then walk back again.

I caan't believe anyone would intentionally set a LVC like this, so i really hope there is some sort of adjustment i've just not found yet.

Failing that i have my fingers crossed i'm not the only person using LiPo's that's not happy about this and Hobbywing can change this in the next firmware update.


Cheers
Mark