yes make sure the polarity is correct and solder it to the battery leads of the esc

Cool thanks. Do I need to make sure its close to the esc or does it matter?

the closer the better as the shorter the path the current can flow the less losses occur .

anything else you need please do not hesitate to contact me .

regards Angelo

i think that's merely speculation, unless you've got some data from an oscilloscope to prove it :p

p/s: We'd all love to see that to be honest!

There is PLENTY of evidence out there (usually from car audio sources) that the shorter the power wires the less loss... the question has always been how MUCH actual difference it makes... the theory is one thing...

Hi there, I run a similar setup as you but with a much lower motor temp.
My settings are:
FDR: 7.6
SW:518Stock
#4:7
#9:6
#12:4
#13:6
#14:4
#15:6/7
straight is 35m long, with semi-technical infield.

outside temp: ~ 22C, track ~ 35C-40C
motor temp after 6 mins: ~ 60C (x11, 10.5r, Zero timing)

It looks like your motor is quite hot. Check your pinion & spur gears to make sure they are not binding. Make sure your transmission is also smooth. Are you running any motor timing?

update
 

Hi hardmankam,

I did another run yesterday. Almost similar weather condition. The old different is the FDR I use now is 6.9. The motor is now 10 deg celsius cooler. Now it is 88 deg cooler in the acceptable range.

Does lower ratio actually lower motor temp, where all other conditions remains?

My esc setting are
#4:3
#9:4
#12:4
#13:6
#14:4
#15:5

Question, what affect motor heat. I notice that this track, (the city is in a valley) we ran on is always hotter on motor. However earlier this month, we ran a race up north. 400km away closer to the seaside, we can run higher boost and turbo and yet the same motor is cooler. That put a question mark on my head!

There are a lot of factors that affect motor heat. Both over gearing and under gearing CAN produce motor heat. HW suggests to use 6.0-6.5 for 11.5R, so for your 10.5R, 6.9 is prob. about right.

Of course FDR is quite driver and track dependent. eg: the amount of drag brake, the driving line, # of turns etc...

But yes, keep the LRP under 90C is the goal while finding the right combo is part of the fun.

I read this in an other topic:
Does anyone know how far Hobbywing is with this feature?

Can anybody please tell me with motor's out there support the overheat protections. Only the HW motor or are there other motor's as well ?

Thanks in advance!

why would i need an oscilloscope to prove it ? Just a multimeter is perfect which has a resistive circuit already connected in series with the circuit .The multimeter will give you the same as the osci just the osci you need a resistor is series then divide the voltage shown on the oscilloscope by the resistance to determine the current or even a more expensive way is to use a current probe.why would i go to so much trouble ?

Low esr caps are another way to cut losses .losses do exist not matter cap or wiring .Shorter thicker wire may it be copper,silver,tin or anything else can hold more electrons and flow much easier then thinner wiring everything makes a difference .Heat creates losses its fact

Maybe its losses are min and maybe not make much of a difference but to say its speculation your misinformed as in audio when they use those massive 1 farad caps there are major losses and proven.

min i believe 100% but as for speculation you are 100% wrong .

i m running 2 caps for 10.5t motor... do i need more caps for 4.5t motor...?

This is all speculation. :nod:
Do the math (yes) regarding actual effects of power caps. (start with time constants), work out just how much(little) power caps will help sagging power supplies in average RC cars.
Do the math regarding actual cable losses from 2-4 inch's or so of cable.

The audio crowd are the biggest suckers for perceiving effects from cables that arnt actually there. :lol:

You would need a scope to actually see whats going on, the current will be going through in pulses & most MM's are really designed to measure that.

But I'm not an expert either. :weird:
Id also like to see some real proof one way or the other. I suspect the power caps are there just to filter the power going into the escs circuitry , ie remove hash, noise & spikes.
Just my speculation. :blush:

I can confirm thats all the power cap I had to stick on the Spektrum RX did, I scoped it up. Lots of noise coming from a el-cheapo servo causing RX to reset. Nothing to do with compensating for power(voltage ) losses into the RX.

Just do a test and see which gives cooler esc.

1. Capacitor closest to the esc.
2. Capacitor far away from esc.
3. No capacitor.

:)

My track has a 35m straight with a shorter 20m straight infield with sweeping corners...

I cant remember my exact settings but from what i remember is this: -

FDR = 7.35

9 = 5
12 = 4
13 = 5
14 = 4
15 = 6

after 7 mins runs... competitively
Motor temps 50 degrees C...
Ambient = ~ 29 - 31 C

Both mine (X12 10.5T stockspec) and Xerun 10.5T shows the same temp