Not sure if this has been mentioned, but the new Hakko FX-888 Station is the newer model to the 936. This iron is awesome...smaller foot print and better performance then the 936.

I can also get these irons for anyone interested. (PM for pricing)

I've received great feedback from the those who have used my iron this past weekend at the Elite Indoor Challenge.

Carey

Must first state excellent thread. I have purchased a few 2nd hand parts recently, any tips on de-soldering / clean-up of existing components?

I can't post links yet, but this is a video on soldering for beginners.

videos.rcnightmare.com/rc-solder-how-to-safety-tips.html
Hope it helps!

Marine- great great post. Never too much information!!

Yeah I added that to my post the other day. It looks nice.

Get some solder wick or a desolder bulb. Solder wick is a spool of braided copper wire, put a drop or two of fresh flux on it when you use it and it works better.

Use some new flux and solder to coat the parts and then use the solder wick or desolder tool to remove it. That should leave a shiny clean surface. Actually, you don't really need the desolder tool, with the part still hot, you can pick up the part and flick the extra solder off. Pretend your getting ketchup out of a glass bottle. Just be careful not to get it in your eye. Do that to get most of the extra off then use the solder wick to finish up.

I will look at that vid, and I may add it as well.

Love the info. I consider myself an expert in soldering for R/C purposes and its nice to know I am not alone in loving a clean strong joint. I don't know if y'all have a Fry's by you, but here's a link to some solder that is about 50% less than the Kester. I will have a spool in a few days so PM me in a couple weeks if you'd like to know how its working out.


http://www.frys.com/category/Outpost...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

It links to several types. Getting the 63/37?

I just got a Team Checkpoint Soldering Station but I'm not sure if it is working correctly. According to the directions the red light is supposed to blink when it reaches the correct temperature. Mine will only blink if I have the temp all the way up. If I set the temp at 650 or 700 degrees the light goes from a bright red to a dull red light but it doesn't blink. It will blink at 800 degrees and above. Is this normal?

Thanks.

I believe the LED is solid when it is heating up, and blinks when it hits the right temp. Some brands are the opposite though.

Yours might have an issue with the LED circuit, I suggest contacting the seller. If it is heating properly, you can use it until the replacement comes in. It is a re-branded hakko, and hakko makes good products. They are one of the dominant brands in the electronics industry. But bad units slip out now and then for everyone.

If I had the money to blow, I would buy a Pace brand unit though, but the cheapest one they make is $300. I am a bit partial to them as I used their top of the line stations in the military. The thing has hook ups for multiple irons and tools, even a built in dremel style tool. Thing is several thousand with all the parts, but you can do just about any kind of repair work imaginable. Heck they trained me to repair bullet holes in circuit boards using the thing.

Just a quick note on the Team Checkpoint. It sounds like it's being re-released, under the Track Power brand name. Towers replacement for TC.

This really should be a sticky. Tons of good info in one post. Been at this hobby since around '82 and still learned a thing or two.

Thanks

great add i just make sure the soldering tip is clean and use flux

Ive been messing up big time, now I hope i can do better. Thanks marine

No problem. Keep practicing, and you will have it down in no time.

Great thread. It's about time I got a soldering iron. Can anyone tell me if this soldering iron is 240V AC compatable, for use in Australia?
TrakPower TK-950 Soldering Station