1), Nope, i don't run one with mod.

2), Nope, not sure if you actually want any diodes at all, depends on how you have ENSA set. If you set it at 100, you don't want any diodes at all.

3) Personally i would just leave it with the ones you have, i have never used the supplied ones.

4) You don't actually have to save your settings. If you alter the settings, it will come back on the same next time you use it. It just gives you the facility to save multiple profiles if you run different settings for different classes.

Cheers dude....
 

Just checking....

So when it says in the manual on page 25 in the Program Load section...

"Set by default at the factory as P5." (and if I want P5 back I'd have to manually load it).

They mean the very first time I turn it on it's at P5 but once I change it, it will load it to my changes BUT it would pay to save them in a slot just in case?

One more question if I may.....

I see you can vary the frequency for brake and throttle. Is there an easy way to make it totally linear in responces for both?

Hey mubachi540......even if you leave just a small amount of space.....just enough for a small allen wrench or pointed instrument to touch the buttons, your fine.....mine is less than a 1/16 from butting up against a flat surface.......Im sure Adrian will chime in on your other questions....and be able to answer them more specificly than myself..........but don't let yourself become overwhelmed with the extreem adjustability of the speedcontrol......within a week of messing with it, and using the quick guide, you should be able to program "every" function in no more than a couple minutes.........also,the programing differences between what your running for a motor now, and then going to the far extreem of running a seven turn mod motor, requires only about 30 seconds worth of tweeking a few adjustments....and thats the long way without having previously saved any profiles :cool:

Yeah it starts with P5 loaded. I just change to how i want and leave it, must admit i haven't saved it. That said it probably is a good idea to save your profile.

Regardless of the frequency, it should still be linear in response i think.

Re: Ok so it's arrived and here are the questions....
 

No need even with 8x2 mods, but remember, cooler is better in EP.

They only act as an one way filter as if your check valve in household piping, I do not see any logical reason why couldn`t it be used, even with 100% ENSA.

no need at all unless you are experiencing glitches originated from the motor. The one comes with ESC are of highest quality.

With the Esc buttons point outside from the car, you will have advantage for installing the heat sink in a proper way (air will flow passing trough fins), + the edge of CGM chassis will cover the button from side impact (your esc most likely will be on set mode, not driveable, after side impact). If CF chassis is used, to prevent the esc be in set mode on side impact, once you turn it on, change the display to shows temperature.

As for linier for both brake and throttle freqs, 4mhz is a got start. But then, why did you decide to use this Esc?

Re: Re: Ok so it's arrived and here are the questions....
 

Ahh that's an easy one purely because it has the lowest on resistance.

Re: Re: Ok so it's arrived and here are the questions....
 

I actually agree in theory with this, however Adrian has said thay they have seen people destroy the FETS and it is now printed in the Rapida manual not to use diodes with 100ENSA.

Re: Re: Re: Ok so it's arrived and here are the questions....
 

I somehow misplace my rapida manual, does it actually said if you use one it will destroy the FETs? not trying to challange anything but I also wanted to know why it will blown the FETs. I seen many people (as much as twice in a day) has blown their VFS2000 when its KO high tech diodes that supposed to increase 'things/performance' is installed.

Well, i guess this doesn't actually warn you that it will blow:

That is pulled directly from page 22 of the manual.

Blew fets
 

This may sound silly, but how do u identify if u have a blown fet? by means of a fluke meter? And how is the service of keyence? Cause i actually inserted the wrong terminals first time on, and i am concerned that i might blew up something although nothing seems to indicated so.

You'll know if the high speed fets are out.

Couple more questions....
 

The yellow wire for the fet servo is a bit of a pain so would it do any harm to either cut it short ...(still having the end covered)...or curl it up and put it inside the case?

That said if I've read correctly taking the cover of voids the warranty anyway?

Secondly the model I got had wires attached with Tamiya plugs/connectors but I intend to change those to deans ultra plugs, which voids warranty like on every esc I've ever had I assume?

Lastly the bit of heat shrink around the terminals (and receiver lead) is making the wires bend in a direction other than the way I want them to go. Will removing that heat shrink (thereby taking strain off the wires from having to bend in a different direction) void the warranty also?

Thanks in advnace.

Re: Couple more questions....
 

I think you should asked Keyence Austalia?

I have had the zero V extreme version for some time now. The level of competition that I have been racing against has just increased dramatically since I just moved to the Cincinnati area.

The problem is I have noticed that my starts in the main are always bad. I usually loose 3 or 4 places. I think the problem is in the power limit/ dash mode set up. I am away from home now so I can't look to see what the settings are but I do know that I set it up as listed for a 540 motor as I run stock most of the time. It can be viewed at the link below under the settings manal.

http://www.keyence.co.jp/hobby/english/manual.html

My friend has the Quantum 2 with the turbo and he just blows right by me. I always catch him but I loose so much time on the 1st lap.

What do you all think? Is it a set up problem or something internal?

Soon the first lap wont be your only problem;)