Dash mode is a throttle preset for the initial burst of acceleration. ie the start of a final. You set it up so you get the best throttle setting for getting off the line quick.
Power level is the current limiter I belive. This just limits the maximum current the speedie will deliver to the motor. The best use for this is in off-road to prevent wheelspin. In on-road, its best to have better throttle control as sometime the excess power is useful.

EnSa is the abbreviation for energy saving mode. This can be set to 100%, 70%, 30%, or off. For those who don't know, the brakes on an esc work by shorting out the motor across itself. With the ensa mode enabled (I belive stock setting is 100%), you short the motor out across the battery rather than the motor. It still has the same braking affect but shorting a rotating motor out across the batt recharges it (a little bit). Be warned that this generates lots of motor noise which may interfere with your radio (gliching) so start with a low setting and work your way up. Also don't use 100% ensa with a schotty diode.

Because this speedy has a few built in profiles, I recommend you try all of them, then modify settings on the one you like best. If you do something you don't like and have trouble reversing it, you can simply reload the profile you like and start again. This way you can experiment with all the features this great speedy has.

Thank you much. So is there any reason to why I should run 100 ENSA as compared to 30% or 70%. I understand the shorting effect. Does the 100% create less punch? Or is it benaficial to run 100% if you can? As long as the car does not glitch at 100%, is that the ideal setting?

T T T

Rapida esc and I've had a browse in the thread (a lot to read).

I'm just wondering what are the things to look out for that might not be entirely clear in the instructions that made users go doh!!! when they realised?

Thanks in advance.

Ps: I'll be running in 540 stock and my previous esc "suggested" a schottky diode so I soldered one on (and a pain to remove) so if I've read correctly I can't have the energy saving thing set higher than 70%?

Also wondering if there would be any point in having it on at all with only 1500 mah packs and stock 540's anyway?

Congrats Mab.540 on purchasing THE BEST ESC on the market! I'm not all that electronically savvy but I do mess around with my Keyence every now & then and I LOVE IT . If I can help in any way, I'll be sure to pitch in.

AdrianM- did you get all of my PM's?

- jaybee

Uhh...I never check my PM's...lol! Just email me of you need me.

I would dissable it. There are great benifits to it, but it will result in faster com wear and you can't retrue a 540 motor. You don't need the extra runtime anyway.

Congrates on your purchase.. You will LOVE this speedie...

Note: try drive freq of <0.5 for a 540.

Mind explaninig why not?
I run 100% Ensa, with a KO super shotky diode on the motor.
I don see anything wrong with it other then getting better 'punch'.
If there is something wrong there, then i think i will remove it.
Thanks alot

Well...It will run fine until your Schottky fries your high speed fets. 100% ENSA=No Schottky. Less than 100% Schottky's are fine. I don't know exactly why but we have found this to be the case.

When your high speed fets die you speedo's resistance goes way up and you car slows way down. Last time it happened to me I was one sec per lap slower.

All speedos can burn up fets. I've had it happen with 1 LRP V6 (out of 20 or so LRP speedo I've owned over the years) and one Keyence (the first out of 5 I have owned).

Hey AdrianM- just wanted to pick your brain a bit... I programmed my Zero V Extr. according to your 'stock settings' but wondering if something is wrong. Car has lots of punch , but when it comes to braking I register nothing on the speedos display. What I mean is, when I'm driving my drive value is displayed according to my throttle position but when I'm braking, no value whatsoever shows up. I can't hard brake at all
Did I miss something?

- jaybee

Sounds like you need to reset the speedo to the TX. The only reason no brake would come up would be some mistake in setting the speedo to the TX.

Thanx AdrianM, I'll try resetting...

- jaybee

What is the difference between the keyence zero extreme vs. the pro rapida...I want to get one but there are so may different keyences...I just want to get the latest and the greates! hehe..

G

Rapida pro is the latest. Less internal resistance than v xtreme 2002.

before I even start.

1. Is the heat sink a must use item if I only use it for 540 stock, because if I do it WILL block access to the frequency pots on my JRxs receiver?

2. The kit includes a schottky diode but I already have one on my motor of similar strength/rating I don't have to use their one as well do I?

3. The manual says to use the included 104 caps on your motor (even if your motor already has one) but 540's already have 2 x 103 caps included do I still need to use the ones supplied as it's getting rather tight for space as it is?

Thanks in advance.

Edit: Question 4....

Ok I've had a browse of the manual now and this does not look good.

As I read it when you've made all your adjustment you can save into one of four slots...all good so far. But when you turn it on the default is factory preset 5 ok I get that ...

BUT....as this esc will have to be set outside the chassis and access to the 3 buttons on the side it not possible how do I get it to load the profile I enter in slot 1 as default?

The esc is going in a CGM chassis and the 3 buttons will be right against the sidewall preventing in car access.

As the receiver is also on the chassis and will not be going on top of the servo if there isn't an option to load setting 1 by default I now have a pretty blue box I cant use.

Sure the manual looks cool, but come on having to manually load your fav profile each time you turn it on wtf!