Sure why wouldn't it? I think you might be misunderstanding the 35A rating. 25A vs. 35A means that it can handle a higher load, it doesn't mean that it WILL pull a higher load, it just means that it can if it has to without burning up. Your 7.2V 3000MAH would work fine on a 120A ESC, in a 1/10 car you'll probably NEVER see 120Amps being pulled, but if it was pulling that much the ESC would be able to handle it.

My Slash pulled 37amps max on the stock system. The 35A ESC can handle higher bursts than 35Amps, but is rated for 35amps at a constant rate. So I went with the 65amp ESC version so I would know that I was not going to burn up my ESC.

A lot of people get caught up in "C" rating on Lipo packs.... "well my pack can put out 190AMPS!" well are you using a car that can even come close to that at a constant rate? (because that how they are rated-constant amperage)

If I'm not answering your question, your going to be more specific on why you don't think that your battery will be ok.... I mean it, I'll answer more questions. I just don't want to insult your intelligence.

J

Last question, Is there anywhere I can buy it from that's safe, But won't take like 3weeks to arrive?

I only know RC-mart sells em but,it takes like 3weeks to arrive.

You can try E-bay. That's kind of the down fall to the system, you can only get them from china. I bought mine through RC Mart I think. I know RC Market has them too.

Jay

How long did it take you to receive it?

My friends say it takes them about 3weeks for stuff from rcmart to arrive.

I think I got mine in 2.5-3 weeks just like everyone else. I'm a bit special though. I'm in the U.S. Military living in germany, so ALL my mail gets sent to the states then to Germany.... NO MATTER where it's coming from. It could be from germany, or france and it'll still go to the states first.

J

Hello



I have an “old” Kyosho 2-WD Stadium truck (Ultima EP….)

I was running a 14T Kyosho brushed motor on 6 or 7 cells (Nimh or Nicd) With 7 cells, it was pretty fast and punchy with stock gear

I was thinking about buying a new brushed motor when I saw the EZRun Brushless setup

What would be the best pick for my truck:

*) For the ESC: 35A or 60A?

*) For the motor: Real 540 size like the 5.5T or the 8.5T, or a 380 size in a 540 size can like the 9T or 12T?

*) I have a bunch of battery pack, so I’d like to stay with 6 or 7 cells (Nimh or Nicd)



Same question for a Tamiya 4WD on-road car (a TT-01 or TT-05, I don’t really remember)



And finally, where is best place to buy? Ebay? Which store?




Thanks

I race an associated T3 with a hobbywing 60A and a novak 6.5 motor.
The esc handles it easily, it barely gets warm over a 5 minute race.
It is pretty glitchy with the novak but it proves the hobbywing esc will handle low turn motors easily. I would go for the 5.5 in a truck.
Terry
I have two 60A esc's I bought one of mine on ebay and the last one from harrisrc in the Australian section of rctech. Postage from harris took 2 or 3 days but l am Australian. Try them they are great to deal with.

Well, I've seen some you tube video and 35A ESC + 9T configurations look pretty good....
I know a 60A + 8.5T is not much more (money wise) but I don't want to break everything in the car
Any other opinion?

The 8.5T isn't going to break anything. People are running 5.5T & 6.5T in AE T4's and Losi XXX-T's. I would go for the 60A version for any offroad car bigger than a 1:10 buggy. As for your TT-01 & TT-05 you'll be fine with the 30A and "380" sized motors (9T and up).

Jay

I have the hobbywing 80 amp esc and their 2350 kv motor combo in a Erevo and on 5000 zippy 20c 4 cells. We have clocked a maximum of 50 mph with a 23/56 gear. It is crazy fast especially when racing. My freind has the 120 amp deal with same motor and race these trucks very hard as our track is on a steep hillside with lots of speed. Our current and very bad problem is keeping the tires glued on and we have actually blown apart tires that have stayed glued on. Even while splashing through mud, we cannot report any bad tendancies at all ever. New US distributor is kershawdesigns.com.

To the guy who fried his while changing punch control to lowest setting; thanks for posting as I have yet to go lower than #2 without any problems and I won't try.

I too have been looking at the 35 esc and 9t combo becuase my fiends and I have tc4 cars and I keep melting the wire and solder off my stock esc.

If you are able to run a brushed 14T + 7 cells before, you can probably handle a 6.5T brushless + 6 cells. If you want more speed, you can always run 7 cells. As for ESC, you will need a 60A for this setup.

However, if there is no 6.5T combo, I suggest you should try 8.5T instead of 5.5T. As 8.5T has more torque than 5.5T. More torque is preferred in offroad.

Of course real 540 can is better than 380(540 like) cans, because 540 cans has higher torque than 380's.

As for your TT01/TT05, 5.5T is a better choice. Since for onroad, higher rev is preferred over higher torque, since touring car as much ligher, and the tires are smaller than offroaders.

For you reference, I run 35A + 9T on my RC10B4 (offroad) and 120A + 7.5T for my T2'008 (onroad). I bought the 35A + 9T before the 60A + 8.5T combo came out, given the choice, I would buy the latter.

Hope this helps.

LOL dun knw m i d only one who posted the fried 150amp hw esc. Dun try hee. I m still waiting for the replacement. They r not as fast as CC in terms of repairs n service. I may go back to mmm if I dun hear or get a replacement from them

Is hobby wing esc better than mamba 7700.

i feel it clogs less & smoother now with the sensored 1/10 esc even better.

My On road Tamiya car is a TA05
I don't race, just bashing around on some parking lot...
Am I good with the 35A and 9T for this car, or should I go with the 60A and 8.5T?
For the the 2WD buggy, I'll take later a 60A and 8.5T...

Thanks