I tried that but the model was really old. Like 10 years old. $5 for a new one solved it and drivers were current.

Looking for feed back on the steel wheels.
We still have a few we would like to sell and pay back the investment.

On the steel flywheel. It is a good chance that once our batch is gone that they will be special order only and pricier because of that.

To thread followers.
I thought I would let you know how I use the Dyno on brushless motors.
In the brush motor days we used it on fixed timing motors to tune brush and spring combos and verify motor condition. Mod motors we set timing also.
In the brushless era it is to tune timing almost exclusively. It can be used to sort fixed timing, spec motors also as a Motolyser doesn't tell you a complete story. I actually have a pair of USGT spec motors that are close on the Motolyser, one looks bad for resistance in that test and yet that one with poor resistance numbers is the fastest on the track and shows why on the Dyno. About a 5% better power number with matching efficiency.
Now to tuning. Basically I do step timing tests at 5 degree intervals. Most motors I start at 25 degrees and go up. I pay attention to the results at each step. What I look at is the ramp up. Typically peak rpm doesn't mean much as you will almost never utilize that on the track. That is where guys setting motors at 60 degrees fail.
Motors by manufacturer and generational design will each have a characteristic to their timing likes.
My best example comes in four 17.5 current market motors.
SMC likes lower timing by a bunch and it has a very high no load amp draw that must be paid attention to. In my tests in generates the best power numbers at 30 degrees. Above that and efficiency falls like a rock.
TSR V3 likes a lot of timing and seems to be its best at 45 degrees but there it still can't match the SMC for power and torque but it is a older design.
Hobbywing G3R is a 40 degree motor and in my testing is the best of the bunch in power and efficiency.
Tekin Spec R is also a 40 degree motor and is very similar to the Hobbywing in testing. I only use this motor on the oval as it is a spec in the class motor in the class I run their.
Now one interesting thing that the Dyno won't tell you.
If you have optional rotors, they can fool you. A weaker rotor in the SMC produces much higher power numbers as I generates a lot more rpm. Power is calculated from torque and rpm so increase one and the power number goes up. The torque is a bit lower with that rotor and the final kicker is the efficiency drops. What show up on the track is a motor fast for a few laps and then it fades.
I have also seen the effects of to strong of a rotor. I did testing of a motor coming out soon that when first given to me for testing had a over the top cog to it from rotor strength and stator design. It wouldn't rev at all compared to same wind in other designs. We collected the data and threw a guess of a final drive and ran it. It had no speed so we re geared it higher and started to get close in speed but then the evil heat set in quickly. I then made the call for a weaker rotor and the motor woke up. We backed off on gearing and it was fast but still had heat issues. We then decided to lower the timing and keep the gear without removing it from the car. Car became faster yet yet and held speed for 5 minutes. After that run we dynoed the motor and saw why. The weaker rotor actually had more torque and rpm but we didn't find it initially at the high timing setting. We weren't doing my step method as I was being directed by the manufacturer rep on my steps. A few days later I did that on a batch of prototype motors and we didn't track test at all. It was a cool experience and I helped the manufacturer dial in the rotor strength. That motor is one that will not have a optional rotor by ROAR rules. It hasn't been submitted yet due to supply chain issues with the production batch. Stay tuned on that one.
This was a long read but my purpose was to help you understand the Fantom Dyno and how to use it.
It takes work to do these tests but establishing a data base of the results is what gets you forward.

Anyone got a Facts Dyno they want to sell?

I know this is an old post, just checking to see if anyone that still has a Fantom Facts Dyno would be willing to sell it.
Thanks Joe

I have tried to use the 201 software but I can only get a couple runs, then it stops communicating. When I try to go back in, it doesn't open the software just the small box giving me the ability to only exit or add my registration info. If I load the software on another computer, same thing- works a few times and then done. Does this mean I need a reg code?

Yes you do need a reg but there's no INE to give you one to unlock unfortunately

Please contact me if you need to get the Facts II app registered. I can help you get it activated, and also suggest you put it on a current operating system.

Mike

can you please send me another one. The one I got from you before did not unlock the software for me. Thanks

Sure, I need the specific information from your machine to create the activation, each computer has a different activation code. Please send me an email again, with the registry information.

Mike

I have a friend that is interested in selling his dyno. Any interest?

I have a few now, unless it is one that has the switch to do 7.4V instead of 5, probably not. Thanks for letting me know about it! And happy to help the new owner get activated on his machine

Did I send you instructions for what I need to generate you an unlock Reg file?

No.
I am still waiting on my friend to see what he thinks.
If that fails I will contact you.
Something weird going on. I will swear that I sent you two new PM's about this since late yesterday. There is no sign of them and it sounds like you didn't receive them. Hmmmm!