8LikesIs 10A really enough
11-25-2023 | 07:22 PM
#16
Ehhhh. Yes and no. It will be enough to charge one pack between 1-2C depending on your battery size. TBH I only see a small improvement once Athena electronics get warmed up after one track practice session that usually takes the battery to around 8.0v.
I charge my 6400mah battery at 18amps. IR and total capacity seems to be starting to fall. I will probably start charging at 10 amps to extend the battery life. My budget isn’t ready for a new battery yet
I charge my 6400mah battery at 18amps. IR and total capacity seems to be starting to fall. I will probably start charging at 10 amps to extend the battery life. My budget isn’t ready for a new battery yet
11-26-2023 | 02:45 AM
#17
Balance current is key, it will significantly improve charge times for a degrading pack that would otherwise need to be replaced far too soon with a charger with a poor balance current rating.
I once had a low quality charger that didn't provide any balance current rating and my battery took close to 45 min to charge at 10A and a buddy at the track put the battery on his iCharger to test the IR for me and showed how the IR was a little high but not bad and he charged it in 15 min at 10A and that's when I was convinced that balance current was the most important thing that mattered. I bought an iCharger the next day and never looked back at any of the budget chargers ever again
I once had a low quality charger that didn't provide any balance current rating and my battery took close to 45 min to charge at 10A and a buddy at the track put the battery on his iCharger to test the IR for me and showed how the IR was a little high but not bad and he charged it in 15 min at 10A and that's when I was convinced that balance current was the most important thing that mattered. I bought an iCharger the next day and never looked back at any of the budget chargers ever again
11-26-2023 | 09:42 AM
#18
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
Agreed for a racer in a spec class, but all that matters in a mod class is making a full 10 min main... an aged pack with IR that is increasing can "limp along" with a higher quality charger for an extra 4-8 weeks which can significantly reduce long term expenses.
Too many people buy the cheap charger without any concern for the balance current and will replace their batteries sooner than they could with a higher quality charger which can save them a lot of money over time
11-26-2023 | 12:51 PM
#20
Agreed for a racer in a spec class, but all that matters in a mod class is making a full 10 min main... an aged pack with IR that is increasing can "limp along" with a higher quality charger for an extra 4-8 weeks which can significantly reduce long term expenses.
Too many people buy the cheap charger without any concern for the balance current and will replace their batteries sooner than they could with a higher quality charger which can save them a lot of money over time
Too many people buy the cheap charger without any concern for the balance current and will replace their batteries sooner than they could with a higher quality charger which can save them a lot of money over time
11-26-2023 | 01:01 PM
#22
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
It really depends on the club, I recently raced at the ROCCK in Knoxville and they do 7 min quals and 7 min mains, most clubs do 5 min quals and 8 min mains, depending on turn out they will do 10 min mains and most big race events will do 10 min mains. Just to clarify I only race 1/8 electric these days as the 1/10 program in my area is non existent.
11-27-2023 | 06:25 AM
#23
Tech Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,032
From: Columbus, OH
Long mains for mod are welcome. Properly picked and sized motors, low motor timing, correct boost and turbo, equals low heat. High efficiency.
Long mains for overloaded BS slow stock motors on blinky are terrible. Geared to the moon with too much timing. Motors simply get too hot. Any way you cut it, 13.5 is the bare minimum to move an ST or Wheeler. I get why we need slow. But Long mains or practice sessions are not for them.
Long mains for overloaded BS slow stock motors on blinky are terrible. Geared to the moon with too much timing. Motors simply get too hot. Any way you cut it, 13.5 is the bare minimum to move an ST or Wheeler. I get why we need slow. But Long mains or practice sessions are not for them.
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
