3.5.3 on everything, f1000 both radios, tele off both radios . Track is 80 deep 100 wide, happened on stand 10 feet up if we were next to each other and on ground next to cars my radio immediately caused my son's to run away, turn and not fully respond to inputs. . It was repeatable at the track . I can't get them to do it at home even with 3 elrs radios on , a couple afhds 2a slt and Bluetooth stuff all on next to the car on the bench m everything i could outside of building a cage to put it all . I Set the power as low as i could, couldn't repeat it .

It happened with Hobbywing, stock spec g3, xr10g2 , xr10 g2 legacy and sky toro 120, all except the stock spec on hv bec, savox servos, n pro and srt. None of the escs burst if you plug them in or out while on , they all look for signal and beep when they grab it . It was only the er3ci and er5ci , the er4s were fine all day. It looked and felt like the old days when someone would turn their radio on your channel. My son was complaining that my 2 wheel was turning by itself with his brother driving next to him.

Bind phrases on both radios share 3 letters , but that should not matter, the actually code is supposed to be random gen.

For now mapped throttle to channel 3 or 5 , dropped to Lora 500 But I'm not running ELRS in race rigs at tracks until i can repeat it. I'll use our nb4s or get a frm303 to run on the mt12.


.

Until you can recreate it, then there's little that can be done. Interference could cause a dropped connection, but shouldn't cause a reboot. I still feel like it's a power issue. If not the ESC's BEC that's faulty, it's possible that a faulty servo can drag the voltage low enough to cause a reboot.

Extended ribbon cable
 

Hello everyone. I was wondering if anyone knew of an aftermarket ribbon cable that's longer than the stock one. It's the one cable that connects the main board to the one on the wheel. I was trying to make the controller a lefty but snipped the edge of one of the sides. Any help is good

Please search around here.

Hi,

I recently purchase this to control a 1/28 onroad rc car (gl glr fwiw). I would like to inquire about in which order do you guys set up end points, trims, sub trims.

What I do:
put servo horn as straight as possible
put same size of steering linkage on left and right
reset radio
set end points to a desired steering radius doing circles left and right -> at this point to have same radius left and right i will end up with very different end point values (lets use 37 and -42 as example)
set sub trim to make car go straight


My issue is that now, if i want to change steering radius I cant do it while driving as if i want less steering for example, if I change end points to 36 and -41, the car is no longer going to steer same way left and right.
What am I missing?

Sorry if that has been asked already.


EDIT: did some more research and apparently this is what dual rates are for. Still unclear if i should do trims, sub trims, or end points first though.

Subtrim, EPAs first. Then dual rate on the fly for steering throw adjustment.

Thanks. So only one rate (with the 'weight' setting) should be used? is there cases where you'd actually need more than one rate for a rc car?

My method is to center everything physically and software side in the radio, everything close to zero. Then I set subtrim with the car driving around slowly making sure it centers after left/right turns correctly.

Then I set end points with the vehicle loaded on the ground.

Dual rate affects steering both directions. So when you adj dual rate you are adjusting left/right steering equally.

No idea how it works on the MT12, I just outlined the order in which you should set your steering up. Dual rate (stupid name) is used if you have too much steering for given track or conditions so you wanna reduce it quickly. It affects both left and right endpoint equally.

wait, so the devs KNEW the hardware would output garbage on the PWM pins and still designed a receiver around it anyway? that makes it SO MUCH WORSE.

I know it's open source, but that's inexcusably negligent and incompetent. like, the first and most important design requirement for any receiver is ONLY output signals the user initiations from the transmitter, and NEVER output anything else. how can you design a reciever, find out it outputs garbage on the pins that could send a car flying out of control, and simply be like "well that's good enough. send it!"

and even with a fix for this specific problem in the works, how is anyone supposed to trust the judgment of these devs, or the judgement of radiomaster to make sure they vet the tech they use in their radios? the simple answer is you can't.

Couldn't agree more on that bit lmao so I'm gonna call it Steering rate

Too much steering means car turns too tight regardless of understeer, or traction rolls?

What would be the use of the steering speed setting? wasnt clear to me when doing a search on past threads.

What I know so far:
if turns too tight -> decrease steering rate
if too twitchy in straight line -> increase expo value
if traction rolls -> what do I do? expo? rate? speed?



do you ever use normal trim as you drive? and if yes is it going to keep the same steering radius left and right?

Apparently modern servos can be too fast, some people find they're more consistent with a slower steering.

Could help with traction rolling but that's really up to your driving and the setup of your rc.

I just learned about Express LRS a few months ago so I wasn't around. I don't know who knew what and which group made what decisions (hardware manufacturers? ExpressLRS devs? random Internet individual?), and even though most ESCs do not respond to it, and those that do wouldn't really send anything "flying out of control" because it's a short power-on event, I fully agree this is not acceptable and I was disappointed when I figured it out.

Don't usually need to mess with trim again unless I make major camber or toe changes.

You can also adjust steering speed by adjusting the slow up/down options in mixes. I add 0.2-0.4 to my steering on oval and I'm experimenting with it on off road too. I also used it on throttle channel for oval racing to slow down the throttle return.

Thanks everyone. So far I only did the J.Bardwell button setup and even with instructions I found this extremely complicated to navigate It's frustrating because all the killer features are there and work. I hope next gen of products will make this easier to use. Perhaps a bigger screen to have a sense of where in the menu dive we're at and with less abbreviated terms and stuff hidden behind long presses would help.

Gripes:
-the buttons engraved T1 and T2 show up as ST and TH in the firmware
- the special functions > mixer source stupidity (bardwell video @ 12 minutes) with multiple long presses to be able to select a fricking input/switch
- screen feels too small with too many abbreviations. I don't care about color or touch screen
- small screen means global variables are limited to 3 characters
- menu diving reminds me of 80s digital synthesizers

Still have questions tho :
1) can I change the sub trim increment step? I only found a setting to change the trim step.
2)
did you modify the original springs? or can one buy such springs somewhere to experiment with different stiffnesses? I'm not comfortable bending the supplied springs if i cant get replacements.
3) what is the use of the "copy trim to subtrim" output function? can it help speeding the initial model set up ?