Losiracer12

iTrader: (1)

I am very fortunate that the closest track to me is always kept in super consistent condition and has some very close competition with highly skilled drivers. The racing can get very intense even during the normal weekly races. I tried the XSC150P last summer and I dropped .4 off the times that I was running in 2wd mod,I previously had all Xr10proG2’s and switched everything over shortly after.My 13.5 4wd is hands down the fastest car on track

Steve8

Funny everyone is saying tekin has great customer support. Well i must be the odd man out here, since the responses I've gotten from them seemed to be typed by an ill tempered child. To be fair to tekin, this was in regards to thier crawler esc, not racing, which they were new to, so maybe thier technical support wasn't happy that I knew more of how it works than them. Or maybe I just kept getting the same disgruntled employee. Either way, no more tekin for me.
Sorry no relevant information for the op here....

waitwhat

iTrader: (4)

Which track is it and how many of your locals went to the worlds?

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

You should go tell Spencer Rivkin he could gain .4 a lap with these esc's, he'd probably give you a finders fee.

I could see a tenth or two over like my cheap 45a hobby wing esc another racer gave me for free, but mostly due to braking feel improvements and possibly motor fade with better adjustments. But you are not gaining that much time over a HW 120a, 160a or a reedy 510R. That has to be down to other car improvements or your improvement as a driver.

It really makes me want to put that 45a hobby wing just stock in my stadium truck and try to win a regional race with it. But I don't know the next time Im going to run stock lol.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

To be on topic, As long as you stick with the biggest brands you should be fine. If you dig long enough you will find people blowing up everything. I've heard some local HW guys have blown up the 160a G2s and gone back to G1s for now, but sounds like most people love the G2s.

Personally I've gone from cheap hobby wings, to much more to 120a v3.1 hobbywing and orion hmx's to all reedy 510r's. They are all capable and great esc's but I hated bringing my laptop with me to tune the HMX's and the reedys are one of the most solid esc's I've ever used. Every adjustment you could want and are very responsive to changes, and the programmer is super fast to use and doesn't really need updating. My friend tried tuning my 80a hobby wing and his programmer needed updating or my esc did or something dumb. The reedy just worked.

I have heard of tekins failing a little easier than some other brands, but nothing crazy. For their premium price Id expect the opposite to be the case. But they aren't a bad brand to run.

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

I'd love to know more about that because this is definitely a rare case rather than the norm. It's a family owned business and I always get fast answers from the owner's son. We've even chatted it up on more than one occasion via emails or PMs.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I dropped 2 seconds a lap when I started wearing Black socks instead of White ones.

...Just sayin

PDR

iTrader: (31)

I run 21.5 blinky TC and consistency is typically north of 98%. The three ESCs I've tried in recent history are the Hobbywing XR10 Justock, Tekin RS Pro Black and the Muchmore Fleta Euro V2. I didn't find any of them faster or slower in any significant way, but I *prefer* the *feel* of the Muchmore. It's entirely subjective, and personal, but it suits the way I drive. I see people post faster and slower laps than me, but I don't think the ESC is a big contributor here. Variability in batteries, motors, tyres (and prep) along with driving are most likely more material.

I've had no technical issues with any of them. Had to replace the capacitor and power switch on the Black, but that was race damage.

Just some thoughts on why you would choose one mainstream brand over another:

• Physical layout (buttons, battery wires, motor wires, sensor cable position) - you may have a chassis layout that lends itself to one more so than another
• People nearby who have expertise for advice (or sometimes an emergency spare)
• Stores/retailers/distributors nearby who can support you, or you want to support with your wallet
• Feel - this is super subjective and hard to know until you try it. I don't think there's one-size fits all
• Whizzbangery that floats your boat. We all have our tastes and preferences, don't be ashamed of that

It's OT, but I am deeply sceptical of many of the claims made by ESC manufacturers on IR/max current etc, but YMMV.

robert@castle

As you should be. Other manufactures are the reason we don't have a current rating on our ESCs. It turns away some customers that use that made up number for comparison, but we wouldn't feel good about listing the current ratings that some manufactures use. A lot of them will just look at the datasheet for the MOSFET they are using and multiply the max current value of the MOSFET by the number of MOSFETs in parallel, but you can't do that for a brushless ESC because the MOSFETs are constantly switching to make the motor spin. We tested a "60 amp stock" ESC from a competitor and found that it could only do about 18 amps continuous without shutting down in about about a minute. We then ramped up the current to see how much it could actually take in very short bursts letting it cool to room temperature between bursts. It blew up at 45 amps.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

HobbyWing is no longer cheap Chinese garbage like they were a few years ago, so they are definitely a good choice nowadays. But my first choice is still SkyRC.

Losiracer12

iTrader: (1)

Rivkin runs what he is paid to run plain and simple. I beg to differ,4 tenths immediately shaved by switching esc’s. This was done during a practice day back to back and no other changes were made. Our track stays very consistent lap times all day so this is not a factor either. The XSC150P is one awesome esc

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

All that tells me is that your previous ESC was either a dud or you didn't set it up properly. If that new ESC really is that much faster than all the others, everyone would be running it by now.

Losiracer12

iTrader: (1)

it was back to back against the G2 that was very well set up. I don’t mess around with my equipment and if it was a dud it would have been already discarded.I have vast knowledge in my electronics and esc parameters so unfortunately your theory is not the case. You are correct in the second part and the ones that know about these esc’s and have been running them say the same things that I do. They are a newer company and I give it time but I see many people on racing groups on Facebook saying the exact same thing that I am. It looks like they are starting to sell quite a lot of the XSC150P and for very good reason. Hands down the fastest esc on the market right now

ryan391

iTrader: (1)

I call BS!!

There I said it.

Losiracer12 you said the same thing about the this brands servo in another thread. Even if you were off a full second of the fast lap. There is no way changing an ESC is going to make you that much faster. Please stop lying and claiming all of this companies products make you that much faster. I am not even sure why we are still discussing this.This is not even the top of the post.

You have not told any of us why this is better than any other ESC on the market. What I have learned from you is that you switched to this ESC and it was so great you shaved .4 seconds off lap times. (you also said that about a servo) I have not idea what makes this ESC faster. Also I learned you take care of your equipment. I think you are just trying to promote a brand most have never seen or heard of.

ScottZ

iTrader: (2)

the web sight don't have the xsc program device how do you program it don't want to try it if i can't get a program box