Initial Brake Force?
 

Hobbywing XERUN XR10 Justock ESC.

Can anyone clarify this ESC setting. It's not explained in the manual.

Initial Brake Force: Option 1 = Drag Brake Force / Option 2 - 0% / Option 3 - 20% / Option 4 - 40%

There's also Drag Brake Force and Max Brake Force, those I understand. I just can't figure out what's meant by Initial Brake Force.

Thanks!

It's how much brake is applied when the brakes are starting to be applied. Personal preference if you want more brakes when you tap the brakes.

Thanks for clarifying.

I have Drag Brake set to 40%. Max Brake set to 75%.

I understood Drag Brake to be simulated motor braking off throttle (neutral.) Max Brake is 75% of total. So, I thought that Drag Brake was acting essentially as 40% Initial Braking.

No?

Braking was my biggest suprise last summer racing. Never realized how much they were used. Running solo for so long I’d learned to just let of throttle and roll through turns.
Wasn’t till after racing ended I got a programming box and started trying different brake settings. I ran with a Trackstar esc, came set at 80 percent. Which was suprising since it felt like I barely had any. Just moving to 85 percent cut 2+ seconds off my laps.
I’ve also got a hobbywing esc. Came set a 75 percent Moved to 100. Big improvement.
Never liked the feel of drag brake. Though I may give it a try in my F1 this summer.

I used them really for the first time last night. The throw from throttle on to brakes on seems really long and so for me is an awkward movement. I did move my trigger back and that helped. You're right though, 75% braking feels like nothing and the car just continues to roll. At 100% it seems too sudden though.

The first option under Initial Braking is Option 1 = Drag Brake Force. That's my current setting. My thinking was that at neutral trigger I had 40% brakes then if I tapped the trigger I had 75% so no sudden braking, just gradual and smooth. Otherwise, at 100% the brake application is too much.

I'll have to start experimenting. I'll take off the Drag Brake and up the Initial Brake.

Pretty sure this video shows when I changed brake setting to 100 percent. It’s with my 17.5 Serpent.

https://youtu.be/-kjho_t8-G4

If you feel like you have to move the trigger too far, you can try and reduce your deadband/neutral range if it defaults to a wider/higher number. I think Hobbywing ESC's default to narrow which is the lowest setting.

I also have a problem sensing where neutral is and applying light brakes. I have a habit of applying full brakes. I don't want super strong springs as that would make it uncomfortable to drive. Would like some sort of tactile feedback of when I'm in neutral.

I'm glad to see somebody having the same problem as me (I guess lol.) Yes, I reduced the ESC deadband/neutral to the narrowest setting and it helped immensely. At the default ESC setting the trigger throw was horrible. Basically dead until halfway through.

Absolutely! The steering has the detent that you can feel when the steering is centered and that would be nice on the trigger maybe. Yesterday I moved my trigger back quite a bit and it really helped. With the ESC set to 100% braking force, you're right, it's all or nothing it seems that even at the end of a long straight bam the car just stops.

Definitely more playing to do with the ESC and transmitter but feedback like this will definitely help me and hopefully others as well!

Apparently there is an entire thread just for the Hobbywing ESC. Turns out that there is a bit of discussion about the brakes. Some clarification is given in the description of Intial Brake Force as being the same as Minimum Brake Force. That sort of helps me better understand the setting. Let me know what you think.

I found this comment from the Hobbywing rep:

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"Here is some info for you to understand the braking system and how it works.

Maximum brake force: The esc provides proportional braking function. The Braking force relates to the position of the throttle stick. Maximum braking force refers to the force when the throttle stick is located at the top (end point) of the reverse zone. A very large brake force can shorten the braking time but can strip your spur gear.

Initial brake force : Also known as Minimum brake force, and it refers to the force when the throttle lever is located at the initial position of the reverse zone. The default value is is equal to the drag brake force so the braking effect can be very linear and smooth.

Drag Brake force : Sets the amount of drag braking applied at the neutral throttle position to simulate the light braking effect of a neutral brushed motor while coasting."

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Additionally, several posters commented that they don't use Drag Brake at all since it apparently generates quite a bit of heat into the motor.

Yes, the manual explains it pretty well.

If you have your Drag Brake set at 40% and the Initial Brake Force set at 0%... that just makes no sense. You would have that 40% fluctuation as soon as you move the trigger, and activating the brakes.

Starting point for brakes (Initial Brake Force) should be ≥ Drag Brake Force.

The throttle already has a detent. Most high end radios have adjustable spring tension for the steering wheel and throttle trigger. If your radio has adjustable spring tension for the throttle try a stiffer setting to see if it helps you feel where the brakes start.

Also, with so much drag brake (40%) and then an initial brake strength lower than 40%, it would make it so as soon as you get on the brakes, it would actually apply less braking force. Try decreasing drag brake to something like 15-20%, set initial strength to "drag brake". Then, dial in your max braking % so if you hammer the brakes all the way it brings the car to a stop as fast as possible without locking up the tires and skidding out of control. This will make the brakes very consistent, and easier to use effectively.

My radio has adjustable wheel spring tension and trigger position, but I'm not sure about trigger spring. You're right, that might help. Gonna double check my manual.

Yes, it's all starting to make sense and the feedback is helping me reason through it. Yesterday was the first day that I actually experimented with the brakes and didn't just rely on Drag Brake. I was shocked at how well (regular brakes) helped the car rotate into corners. I like your idea of 15-20% Drag Brake and 100% brake. I'll just have to do more practice with the brakes and as I do I'm sure that I'll become more skilled at being able to feel the subtle differences. Thanks!

I set this way.

- End of the longest strait, hit the brakes. You want to break, but not lose control. = Break force. Or how hard your brakes are applied. 4x4 has 4 wheel brakes. Buggy vs. Truck would be different.

- Drag brake, is how much brake is applied when you take your finger off the throttle. I like to set this so when you jump, take your finger off the throttle, so your nose goes down on your vehicle. So when you jump and in the air, gas it to bring the nose up. Hit the brakes to bring the nose down. Drag brake for a consistent bring the nose down a bit. Maybe a 45 degree down, so you hit the back of the jump.

That is what I do.

Thanks! That's probably the best application for drag brake that I've heard so far. Makes sense.

Drag brake is mostly for making weight transfer forward so your car has steering going into a corner. Knowing exactly how the car is going to act when the trigger hits neutral makes it so you can hit your apexes at exactly the same speed every lap. Corner speed is king, especially in spec classes like 17.5